Dielectric grease, rectifier connections

[Miles Long]

Scads and scads of terrific info on both subjects after searching, but if I may revisit for just a bit......
Can using dielectric grease on MULTI PIN connections cause grief, given that the grease is conductive, and the individual circuit pins and sockets are so close together? If not, which connector (male or female)do you pack ?
And the RR.... I have an Odessey battery, I've done the "crimp" fix, and I get about 14 volts at the battery at idle speeds, so I'm assuming the charging system is up to snuff. So should I just clean the stator-RR-battery connections, or go full hog and solder them? For those that have soldered, what voltage increase did you achieve? I've installed some extra circuitry on the bike, which hasn't caused any problem so far, but I will do any upgrades needed to make the charging system as good as it can be (with the exception of a stator replacement)
Thanks in advance, Miles

 

[rarick123]

Umm... dielectric grease is NON-conductive.

 

[4gasem]

Absolutely! Best stuff for it!

I use it on ALL connections on all my toys.

Chris

 

[Miles Long]

Thanks guys for the quick responses. Being NON conductive changes the equation completely! I just bought some of the Permatex variety, and I'll start lathering it on today. That is, after I'm finished with the snowblower. We just got hammered again.
Cheers

 

[rarick123]

Being non-conductive, the point of it is to cover the connection after it's made. What it WON'T do is make an already bad connection better. What it WILL do is keep a good connection from going bad (at least from oxidation, water, salt, corrosion, etc). Believe it or not, if the connection is already not good, you can actually prevent the connection from happening at all by using too much of it.

You won't need to completely fill every square inch of the connector. To give you an idea... if it's a 1 inch deep connector, you'll probably only need 1/16" of an inch deep grease, and even then only around the pins themselves. The rest will get pushed out of the way and fill the other spaces as the two halves of the connector are pushed together.

 

[4gasem]

I just shove a bit in the female side of the connectors and insert the male side.

Like rarick said though... It DOES NOT make a bad connection better.

Chris

 

[dannymax]

I just shove a bit in the female side of the connectors and insert the male side.

Like rarick said though... It DOES NOT make a bad connection better.

Chris

Uhhh.....Chris.....:biglaugh:

 

[4gasem]

Uhhh.....Chris.....:biglaugh:

Hey... It works... We just found out today... :whistlin:

 

[Miles Long]

Thanks again, Rarick, 4gasem, Dannymax. I will make sure all connections are clean before applying the grease. As per what Rarick says,continuity must be retained , lubed or not, and I will smother the connects AFTER joining them. What about the RR connects? Do you guys think I should just clean and lube with the grease, or solder the connections?

 

[4gasem]

Solder is always better but much harder to remove later.

 

[rarick123]

OK, being the Vmax n00b... what's an RR connection? Solder can certainly be removed (as someone who used to do circuit board retouch work for Philips), but in a lot of situations it's easier to just cut/splice rather than remove.

 

[[email protected]]

Hey... It works... We just found out today... :whistlin:

PREGO? :ummm:

If that's the case, arty:arty:

CONGRATS!

 

[Miles Long]

OK, being the Vmax n00b... what's an RR connection? Solder can certainly be removed (as someone who used to do circuit board retouch work for Philips), but in a lot of situations it's easier to just cut/splice rather than remove.

Rarick, it is the 3-wire connector from the stator (Mr. Clymer refers to it as the "AC Magneto", to the Rectifier/regulator, which is locate behind the left hand side passenger footrest . I believe the connector itself is behind the l.h. side cover, but I haven't looked for it yet. Still busy shovelling snow.