Different Thermostat?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It starts to open between 176-183*F and is fully open at 203*F.

Mark
#1098
 
Sorry 4gasem, I'm just a Newbe, so please excuse me! Anyway, I haven't come across much of anything about this except on this site, thought it might be worth talking about some more.

It absolutly is:clapping:

I'm all for more info about this bike! :thumbs up:
 
It starts to open between 176-183*F and is fully open at 203*F.

Mark
#1098

So Mark, what temp rating does Yamaha give there o.e.m. thermostat for our max's?
BTW...I checked with Napa, they don't show a cross reference for the 192 deg. one made by Beck Arnley! Seems a bit odd sice both Napa & Beck Arnley make the 180 deg. one.
 
These open earlier and fit. I've been using the 2000 Camry T-stat for a few years along with a Borg Warner fan sensor. My fan runs a lot, but I seldom get over half way up the gauge. The older Gen 1's have a black dot on the gauge for max. temp.

1992 - 2001 Camry 2.2L
1996 - 2000 Rav4 2.0L
1980-1998 Tercel 1.5L
 
Re: Alternative to stock thermostat

While on the subject how easy is it to remove the stat from behind the header- any tips besides hitting it with an hammer in frustration?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I just r/r mine with the header on (kerker) and it wasn't bad at all but I also swapped out my rad. That kind of opens things up a bit. Mine was held on by Allen screws so not a problem but It was held on with Phillips screws on the other bike maybe a bit more difficult. My cap was warped and needed replaced but you can still get them from Yamaha. An aluminum one would be nice.
 
Re: Alternative to stock thermostat

While on the subject how easy is it to remove the stat from behind the header- any tips besides hitting it with an hammer in frustration?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The upper housing is plastic, no hammers allowed. The screws are Phillips (JIS) but can be grabbed with small channel lock pliers. I toss the screws and put stainless screws/bolts in. The housing is in a spot where the bolts get exposed to the elements and seize easy. Just my opinion, but taking the whole assembly off is easier, two allen screws and a hose. Then, removing the T-stat screws is easy. Good time to paint the ugly elbow, and the drain assembly tubing. That tubing is super thin. Ditch it if rusted badly and save yourself a future issue. Replace it's o-rings too. It can be done without removing the pipes.
Steve-o
 
Back
Top