Drain cock valve assembly

[dannymax]

This is a pic of the drain cock valve assembly. There have been different posts on where the on/off positions are located.

When changing coolant this valve is turned to the "ON" position to properly drain all the coolant, and to the "OFF" position after coolant change is completed.

The service manual refers to a "match mark on the valve housing," this is nearly impossible to see when the assembly is on the bike, and so small that it wouldn't photograph with my camera. The "match mark" is located at the 2 o'clock position in the pic.

The valve pictured is in the "ON" position. Turning the valve 180 degrees will place it in the "OFF" position.

Another way to tell is, if the stainless detent ball can be seen in the top hole of the housing the valve is in the "ON" position.

The valve will turn either clockwise or counter clockwise...it doesn't matter. It will also rotate 360 degrees without harming the assembly.

The phillips screw at the 9 o'clock position is a set screw which fits in a groove in the valve body, holding it in place. Remove this set screw to pull the valve body out for inspection. (Be prepared to catch the spring loaded stainless ball.)

If you have coolant leaking from this valve it is most likely the o-ring. The OEM assembly is priced at about $45 on the micro-fiche. I don't believe the o-ring can purchased seperately from Yamaha but you could prolly find a suitable replacement at your local hardware store or plumbing shop.

 

[gamorg02]

good write-up dan.

when i did my coolant change, the ball was in the 'on' position since i bought it...

 

[dannymax]

Garrett...Turn it to the "OFF" position and see if your bike runs a little cooler. I've heard it will run hotter when "ON"

 

[gamorg02]

when i flushed my coolant i changed it to off when done. just never had checked it until then and it was in the 'on' position the first 3/4 hundred miles.

my bike has yet to get above the 1/2 mark.. damn cold weather from mid-october until now...

 

[dannymax]

Here is a pic showing the on/off mark located on the valve body.

It's really useless because you can't see it when it's on the bike.

I have no clue why Yamaha placed it here instead of the 6 or 12 o'clock position. :confused2:

 

[zippo6]

I just flushed mine over the weekend, and if you rotate the valve by following the Service Manual, it's a piece of cake. The valve seems to seat in either the ON or OFF position so you can easily set ON or OFF based on the description and pictures in the service manual.

 

[gamorg02]

I just flushed mine over the weekend, and if you rotate the valve by following the Service Manual, it's a piece of cake. The valve seems to seat in either the ON or OFF position so you can easily set ON or OFF based on the description and pictures in the service manual.

+1 to the haynes

 

[Icepick]

when the valve is turned to the "On" position, where does the coolant drain from? I've turned mine to either position, and nothing came out, is the pump drain plug supposed to be out?

 

[Wes MacLean]

Thanks so much for all the detail and pics in this thread! I picked up an 04 this spring and doing routine maintenance changing the fluids and the coolant drain cock was the difficult one as I could not determine where 'on' and 'off' was located!
wes

 

[tfisher65]

Yes you can buy just the o-rings. It's the same one used to seat the draincock assembly into the thermostat housing. Part #93210-14579-00.

 

[rebar]

when the valve is turned to the "On" position, where does the coolant drain from? I've turned mine to either position, and nothing came out, is the pump drain plug supposed to be out?

I was wondering the same until I just realized it only reroutes the coolant so it can drain.:biglaugh:

 

[Taavinen]

Awesome info guys
I have a tiny leak at the draincock assembly. I was told by yami that it was $120 AUD for the complete assembly (ie no o ring by itself). Have ordered that part number tfisher has put up (cheers for that) for $2.80 AUD

 

[95spfldmax]

When changing coolant this valve is turned to the "ON" position to properly drain all the coolant, and to the "OFF" position after coolant change is completed.

I guess "Drain" and "Run" was too difficult to stamp on there.......

 

[SpecOps13]

I just serviced my coolant while doing other mods. The O-Ring wouldn't seal for a second time. I found a replacement in this assortment pack pack from Ace Hardware. They're not the best O-Rings in the world but it's still sealing and I have spares, just in case.

I turned the stainless steel ball 180 degrees from the visible detent at the straight up position. Ball is straight down.

 

[dannymax]

I just serviced my coolant while doing other mods. The O-Ring wouldn't seal for a second time. I found a replacement in this assortment pack pack from Ace Hardware. They're not the best O-Rings in the world but it's still sealing and I have spares, just in case.

I turned the stainless steel ball 180 degrees from the visible detent at the straight up position. Ball is straight down.

Yer all set Dave! :clapping:

 

[V-max boy]

Thanks, everyone, for all the help! I am still not sure how to navigate through this forum, but I managed to read all the information I needed.

This forum is going to very helpful, I can see that clearly!

Sincerely,

VMB

 

[rollin thunder]

How do you put the ball and spring back in the valve?.

 

[texas-ss-tornado]

How do you put the ball and spring back in the valve?.

^ THIS!!! I've had a bike sitting in storage for about 4 months, got it out today to start her up and noticed a leak coming from this drain tube! I took it apart, only to find the spring and ball on the ground and had no idea how to put it back together? I am going to order the new O-ring and try to put it back together. Is there any kind of sealant needed or does it just go back together dry??? :ummm:

 

[[email protected]]

I put a light touch of vaseline on the o-rings.
Some guys may disagree and say to use coolant as an o-ring lube for this part.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

First the spring, then the ball, lube oring first. I used grease.
Then jam it in there while twisting and holding the ball till it gets so its trapped. Then the little screw should go in to the groove do it can turn but not come out.

Also a good idea to take a look at the hole in the valve and general arrangement so you can make sense out of those stupid ass markings on the valve that don't have a stationary reference point to line up with.

Normal is closed. When I fire one up first time and let it run thru a cycle or two while topping it off I leave it in the open position to better burp the system. Then close it.

Also had it in the wrong position for several months and didn't really seem to make a lick of difference in cooling efficiency.