Dual Radiator Fans???

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RagingMain

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Yes I might get in trouble for posting this twice but....

Anyways I was thinking of mounting 2 5" radiator fans instead of the OEM.
The OEM is only 6".
It would cover more of the core.
Reason I am considering is much of my commute is through traffic at slow speeds.

Here is a link to the fans
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=19752

What do you guys think??? :confused2:
 
u dont need 2,,,any aftermarket fan will work wonders for 2 reasons..The stock fan is slow ..Also does not draw alot of air cause of the crappy pitch...The aftermarket will draw tons of air and alot higher rpm and less than half the amps...

U want a great fan already made for the max and also a great fan switch cause thats also a problem ill get u the guys name who sold me mine..His switch also comes on at 190 not 160 like the other crap ones...Fan will run all day cause the thermostat opens at 183 which means it will never reach 160 unless u take out the thermostat which in turn would make the max run like crap...Motor will never run right cool like that..

If u want that guys info let me know..He sells some stuff like fans,,switch,,and special batteries ..
 
u dont need 2,,,any aftermarket fan will work wonders for 2 reasons..The stock fan is slow ..Also does not draw alot of air cause of the crappy pitch...The aftermarket will draw tons of air and alot higher rpm and less than half the amps...

U want a great fan already made for the max and also a great fan switch cause thats also a problem ill get u the guys name who sold me mine..His switch also comes on at 190 not 160 like the other crap ones...Fan will run all day cause the thermostat opens at 183 which means it will never reach 160 unless u take out the thermostat which in turn would make the max run like crap...Motor will never run right cool like that..

If u want that guys info let me know..He sells some stuff like fans,,switch,,and special batteries ..

Yeah send the info as long as it is not just new blades etc etc... I want a fan that will cover much more of the radiator.
Second thought send it anyways and I can compare it.
Thanks for your help

The main reason I was looking at 2 was the OEM covers so little of the actual core and at slow speeds it isnt cooling much.
 
Yeah send the info as long as it is not just new blades etc etc... I want a fan that will cover much more of the radiator.
Second thought send it anyways and I can compare it.
Thanks for your help

The main reason I was looking at 2 was the OEM covers so little of the actual core and at slow speeds it isnt cooling much.
Fargo.

With the good high rpm, good cfm fan you will not need to cover radiator with fan as much as it could be.

Bealive me :)
 
Ok so I had an epiphany last night.
Dont know why I didnt think of this before but one large fan will always out flow 2 small ones.
My main concern last night was covering as much as the radiator as possible and with a very simple equation we all learned in grade school I could have figured this out last night without bother you all.

Area of a circle A=Pi times radius squared.

OEM Fan 6"
(3.14x3x3)= 28.26 sqin

Two 5" fans
(3.14x2.5x2.5)x2= 39.25 sqin

An 11" improvement, not to bad, but....an 8" fan
3.14x4x4 = 50.24 sqin

So like Prezmek said one fan with adequate CFM will do the job better than our OEM

I just thought 2 fans would look cool with the beefy radiator :punk:
 
I like the idea of two fans, but would worry about power drain, considering how tight our charging system runs already. Thoughts?
 
I have the stock motor and the steeper pitch stainless blade and with the fan on, the temp gauge never goes higher than half way, even on the hottest days in traffic.
 
Remember that with the smaller fans you have to subtract the area in the center of the hub (x2).

With respect to the fans, it is not the size of the fan that makes the difference, it is the CFM. Two smaller fans will not have the same CFM as a single larger fan. In fact you may end up significantly reducing the actual airflow.

If you need more cooling, then look for a bigger fan that will move more air, not necessarily one that will cover more of the radiator.

Another option might be to do what Green Light Blitz did and add a pusher fan on the front of the radiator.
 
I have the stock motor and the steeper pitch stainless blade and with the fan on, the temp gauge never goes higher than half way, even on the hottest days in traffic.

whats traffic in potsdam or schroon lake tho? 2 cars at a stoplight?

just bustin..
 
Cool mod sure...but

As long as your colling system is in good shape AND

Your stock fan is coming on when needed; I.E. through a manual switch or cooler fan thermostat, there is no reason the stock fan shouldn't do the job.

I've let my bike sit on a windless day idling in 100 degree temps for half an hour with the fan forced on via the manual "on" switch and it never get's even a little bit hot....


Try this without a manual switch or a cooler thermostat switch and the fan will come on so late that it will be "behind the curve" of overheating and it will never catch up...
 
Remember that with the smaller fans you have to subtract the area in the center of the hub (x2).

With respect to the fans, it is not the size of the fan that makes the difference, it is the CFM. Two smaller fans will not have the same CFM as a single larger fan. In fact you may end up significantly reducing the actual airflow.

If you need more cooling, then look for a bigger fan that will move more air, not necessarily one that will cover more of the radiator.

Another option might be to do what Green Light Blitz did and add a pusher fan on the front of the radiator.

This is true to an extent.
For example lets say I was able to find a fan the size of the OEM at 6" and it was capable of 1000 cfm. It would not cool as effectively as a 8" fan at 700 cfm.
Reason being the radiator needs surface area to work and the more surface area with air flow will be more efficient.

As far as the rest of you guys with no problems cooling...well I do. Honestly I wouldnt be doing all this if I didnt need to (well mostly :eusa_dance:)
My bike has ran hot since the day I got it and I have tried everything.
Lower temp T-stat. Water Wetter, Engine Ice, on and on and on.
Even tried a modified pump impeller.
I do have a manual switch that I turn on early while in traffic so the cooling system is not behind when it is supposed to turn on automatically and yet it still creeps up and up.
Cruising obviously is not a problem. It is the stop and go that really heats it up.

Now the dual 5" fans I am looking at will flow a combined 630 cfm, but like it was noted you have to subtract the area in the center plus their combined surface area was only 39 sqin.

The 8" fan will flow 500 cfm but covers 50 sq in, that is almost double the stock fan and I am sure it flows more air than the OEM.

So I am going to go with the 8" fan
 
I was over at a friend's cylender head shop the other day talking engines. The topic of cooling came up and I brought up your issue.

we talked about what you've done, and what not, when another guy brought up it sounded like you could have a flow issue in your water jackets. Could be either from calcium or a flaw in the creation of the engine.

Have you compared the coolant flow with another?
 
I was over at a friend's cylender head shop the other day talking engines. The topic of cooling came up and I brought up your issue.

we talked about what you've done, and what not, when another guy brought up it sounded like you could have a flow issue in your water jackets. Could be either from calcium or a flaw in the creation of the engine.

Have you compared the coolant flow with another?[/QUOTE]

How would one accomplish this???

I have checked the flow that you can see when the radiator cap is off and it "appears" to be adequate.

I have also cleaned the cooling system twice in 2 years. Once with the stuff from the auto parts store and once with white vineger. Both times there was no oily residue or chunks of stuff. Actually it was pretty clean.

During one of the cleanings I even took my shop vac as a blower and put it in the suction of the pump (bottom hose) and blew (ha ha he said blew) it through the system. One to check for leaks and two to see if the "same amount" of air was going all the way through the engine and radiator and for the most part there was. Obviously I cant tell whats going on inside each coolant passage and thats why I have also used a temp gun to check the temps of all the cylinders, cylinder heads, and just about every where else while running and they were all with in 10-15 degrees of each other in the same spots.

It doesnt heat up any faster than other Vmax I have seen or ridden. I have had 4, and it is only an issue when riding two up, slow speed traffic or climbing hills all during the hotter months. In fact highway speeds its barely over half.

So I am at a loss, hence the extra big radiator.

Also this might be an issue.
Bear with me on this.
A stock engine is 145 bhp, RWHP 115. So that is about a 30 hp loss.
If mine is almost 140 RWHP, with the big cams now, then theroitically it could be close to 165-170 engine HP. Combine that with slow speeds and stop and go....
Plus when ever I am in traffic in my truck, the engine always runs 15-20 hotter. ( I have a 4 guage pod, EGT, Tranny Temp, Boost, Engine Temp)
 
Measure the flow on the output of the engine with a flow meter with the thermostat removed, while keeping the rad topped off.
You got me at a loss. I'll keep asking and looking around.

I got stage one cams in mine. but no heating problem. I think your what a stage 2? Your running a bigger motor and different carb setup.

could the motor tolerances be on the tight side? Ignition timing maybe?

The only thing thats running through my mind is flow, timing, and tolerances. but it sounds like you went through all that. Bring on the 4-core!
 
Measure the flow on the output of the engine with a flow meter with the thermostat removed, while keeping the rad topped off.
You got me at a loss. I'll keep asking and looking around.

I got stage one cams in mine. but no heating problem. I think your what a stage 2? Your running a bigger motor and different carb setup.

could the motor tolerances be on the tight side?

1300cc
Ported heads
Stage 3 Cams
High Compression Pistons
Morleys Jet Kit
Marks Exhaust
195 psig last compression test, so yes tolerances are on the tight side for the pistons.
 
1300cc
Ported heads
Stage 3 Cams
High Compression Pistons
Morleys Jet Kit
Marks Exhaust
195 psig last compression test, so yes tolerances are on the tight side for the pistons.

Wow! I don't think the radiator in my truck could keep that thing cool! :)
 
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