Dumb question warning...........lol

[KJShover]

Can you explain what the control.. and what happens id they are in too far or out too far. I just want to understand what I am dealing with and also it helps me to know the why's and how's to better understand rather than just the what's.

Thanks

Ron

In - creates a lean condition at idle up to where the needle starts to take over.
out - creates a rich condition at idle up to where the needle starts to take over.

 

[EAGLEPI]

In - creates a lean condition at idle up to where the needle starts to take over.
out - creates a rich condition at idle up to where the needle starts to take over.

OK now how do I know when they are right? what iff they are not right now and I set them back to the way they were before taking them out?

 

[KJShover]

OK now how do I know when they are right? what iff they are not right now and I set them back to the way they were before taking them out?

• If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.

NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.

• If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

If the idle comes down at a reasonable pace and stops at the set RPM, you about got it right. With my max I start by setting the idle, then screw the a/f screws in until the engine starts to miss or there is a noticeable change in the way it idles. then I unscrew the a/f screws until the cyl recovers, then 1/2 turn more. after I get the other 3 done I do the above test.

Make sure your synced and no leaks. It just takes a little time and patience.

 

[EAGLEPI]

• If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.

NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.

• If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

Remember I know very little... OK nothing, I'm learning as I go. I appreciate your tips butwith every tip you create a new question. how best to check for intake leaks.... I don't think I have any BUT....

 

[KJShover]

Remember I know very little... OK nothing, I'm learning as I go. I appreciate your tips butwith every tip you create a new question. how best to check for intake leaks.... I don't think I have any BUT....

No worries. To check for intake leaks, just start the bike and let it idle. spray some WD40 around the carb area. Some use starting fluid, some propane. but I like the WD40.

Listen to the engine when spraying the WD40, if you have an intake leak your idle will change. if it does make note of where you were spraying. Sometimes the boots leak, or the carbs might not be fully seated. (I've done that a few times)

I'm going to turn in, finals start for me this week and I'm beat. Feel free to pm me all the questions you want and I'll try to answer them, if I don't know, I'll help you find the answer.

 

[EAGLEPI]

No worries. To check for intake leaks, just start the bike and let it idle. spray some WD40 around the carb area. Some use starting fluid, some propane. but I like the WD40.

Listen to the engine when spraying the WD40, if you have an intake leak your idle will change. if it does make note of where you were spraying. Sometimes the boots leak, or the carbs might not be fully seated. (I've done that a few times)

I'm going to turn in, finals start for me this week and I'm beat. Feel free to pm me all the questions you want and I'll try to answer them, if I don't know, I'll help you find the answer.

Thanks, I assume you mean around the rubber boot where your carbs seat to the maifold. doesn't WD40 stay oily?? how about contact cleaner which evaporates rigth away but is still wet

 

[dannymax]

Thanks, I assume you mean around the rubber boot where your carbs seat to the maifold. doesn't WD40 stay oily?? how about contact cleaner which evaporates rigth away but is still wet

I like propane for this reason, it's nice & clean.

I listened to your bike in the video you posted on another thread....sounds like it's running fine to me. I have Mark's pipes on both my bikes and set the carbs up the same.....shim the needles .038", back the A/F screws out to 3 1/4 each. That's it!

Those are Mark's recommends and work just fine.

PCW dyno'd my '99 last fall, said it was set up perfectly and not to change a thing! Results....117.1 hp, 79.6 ft lbs torque.

 

[gamorg02]

Thanks, I assume you mean around the rubber boot where your carbs seat to the maifold. doesn't WD40 stay oily?? how about contact cleaner which evaporates rigth away but is still wet

carb cleaner evaporates quickly.

 

[EAGLEPI]

I asked a question but found the answer so I deleted the question. If someone who can delete this see' it, will you please delete it

Thanks

Ron