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Dyno'd the bike today.
- Thread starter Traumahawk
- Start date
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Well-Known Member
How is your bike setup?
All stock?
Any engine, exhaust, carb, airbox, etc...mods?
You mentioned that you had previously dynoed the bike and had very similar results. Was the only change the ignition?
The PO of my bike had it dynoed at the 500 mile service. He had similar results on a stock bike.
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All stock?
Any engine, exhaust, carb, airbox, etc...mods?
You mentioned that you had previously dynoed the bike and had very similar results. Was the only change the ignition?
The PO of my bike had it dynoed at the 500 mile service. He had similar results on a stock bike.
Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
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PATMAX
Well-Known Member
So then your going Kerker, stage 7 or muscle kit complete with rejetting? And air in the back tire of course? Any higher octane gas or additives planned?
No higher octane or additives, but am planning a kerker 4-1, then a dyno, then a muscle jet kit, and another dyno.
Of course after the muscle jet kit, thinking of the innovate LM 2, to help me get everything tuned.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270979863067?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Of course after the muscle jet kit, thinking of the innovate LM 2, to help me get everything tuned.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270979863067?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
I love that you have a Baseline Dyno sheet.
It'll be interesting to see what gains you get from the kerker 4-1 and then again after installing the Jet kit.
It'll be interesting to see what gains you get from the kerker 4-1 and then again after installing the Jet kit.
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Well that way you know. You can say the jet kit added this much hp.....or the kerker did this much. It seems like people in the past (not everyone mind you, but a lot) did a LOT of things to their bike all at the same time. Then you know that ALL of this stuff is good for 20 or 30 hp....but you don't know how much each piece is worth.
Well just checked my rear tire pressure...it was 32. Sean quoted in a thread that he has seen 32 psi.....vs the "dyno standard" of 40 psi....cost as much as 9 hp. If you look at the pdf from the first post....I'm almost dead on with the A/F.
Sean had said that it was lost so I'm assuming peak hp, and it makes sense. A soft tire, or under inflated tire increases rolling resistance..so lost hp.
On the pdf....6000 rpm up.
On the pdf....6000 rpm up.
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customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
Higher octane is only going to help if your spark knocking now. If your running fine now than higher octane will hurt performance.
Try this stuff out!!
VP's MR12 ( which replaced MR9 I believe ). This is 87 octane and should be all you need if you want to see a substantial improvement in performance.
VP’s best fuel yet for 4-stroke applications that can tolerate lower octane values, makes more power for powersport applications than any fuel on the market. Dyno tests proved up to 5% more power than VP’s MR9 and up to 6% more power than VP’s MRX01! Although currently not legal in AMA Pro Racing, MR12 passes fuel rules for AMA Pro/Am, CCS, WERA, AFM, NMA, WORCS, SCORE and Best in the Desert as well as club level racing and more.
Its pricey though.... $26-28 a gallon!
But when you want the utmost ump and bragging rights.....
I wish I would have tried some before I sold the bike, could have been running in the 10.70-80's with fuel alone.
Todd
Try this stuff out!!
VP's MR12 ( which replaced MR9 I believe ). This is 87 octane and should be all you need if you want to see a substantial improvement in performance.
VP’s best fuel yet for 4-stroke applications that can tolerate lower octane values, makes more power for powersport applications than any fuel on the market. Dyno tests proved up to 5% more power than VP’s MR9 and up to 6% more power than VP’s MRX01! Although currently not legal in AMA Pro Racing, MR12 passes fuel rules for AMA Pro/Am, CCS, WERA, AFM, NMA, WORCS, SCORE and Best in the Desert as well as club level racing and more.
Its pricey though.... $26-28 a gallon!
But when you want the utmost ump and bragging rights.....
I wish I would have tried some before I sold the bike, could have been running in the 10.70-80's with fuel alone.
Todd
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Looking at that first graph, your baseline, it really looks to me like the operator got off the throttle early, or hit a rev limiter. You can see how quickly the power falls off, that is not normal from my experience.
You guessed it.....I have a rev limiter at 9500. Of course now that brings to mind....I wounder if I need to move it up to say 10000?
Valvesprings start floating and bad stuff happens at and beyond 10,000 rpm. That fuel kicks ass Todd but only if you rejet for it and it's only like 3-7hp but on a bike that's pretty substantial. Every dyno is different so comparing hp between them is meaningless anyway, take it to the track and fine tune it from there.
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customizedcreationz
Well-Known Member
I would run mine up to 10,200 on the factory tach, which might have been off. In fact I know its not even close to being right at high rpm lol.
As I started playing more with rev limits in each gear I started to change my rpms per gear, finding out which one held better return to peak torque area after a shift.
The fuel will gain more power in higher performance bikes, but still 3 hp from fuel alone is awesome, for a race or drag only bike. At $25 per gallon its definitely not feasible to run on the street. Plain old 87 octane is the best for the Vmax I found. Higher octane in the Vmax made less power and made the bike run slower down the 1/4 mile. I can show you the time slips lol.
Ignition timing on these bikes isn't as critical as say on my ZX14. In general until you really start to heavily modify these bikes internally, most of the factory settings are pretty good.
A bike making 106 hp on one dyno, might pull 112 or heck even 118 hp on another dyno.
Vmax Mike had his bike on the dyno a few times if I recall, he made 117 hp on one and I think 118 on another. It might have been 121. I don't remember , maybe he will chime in. But numbers aside regardless, his bike would pull evenly out of the hole with me at one track. I was running I believe 11.30's and he was running 11.80's. I don't remember all the numbers, but I want to say 60 ft times I was only .02-.05 ahead of him in some instances. So he was hanging with me till the 60 ft mark, but from there on it was me pulling him down the track with the gain opening up the farther we went.
My point is I guess Vmax Mike had more work done to his bike, jetted carbs, dyna ignition, ufo pipes and dyno tuned. I had Marks exhaust....So these bikes are pretty well setup from the factory. You can make them a tad bit better, but not without really digging into them and spending money.
How much money you want to throw in them and what you want to accomplish is the question. I don't personally like to get hung up on numbers from a dyno, but we do because everyone (most) people understand a dyno number as a baseline.
My turbo bike only made 228 hp on a dyno in Ohio, but made 248 hp on Ryan Schnitz dyno, and then made 246 hp on a local dyno. So why was the Ohio dyno different? Operator, temperature etc. Or could be different reading settings.
Regardless of numbers if the bike runs good and strong, thats all that matters. And the Vmax runs good and strong right out of the box. Add an exhaust and possibly tune the carbs and you have about the best your going to get without going internal and spending big money.
I like your approach at dyno'ing one item at a time. It will help you understand better whats going on and why.
Todd
As I started playing more with rev limits in each gear I started to change my rpms per gear, finding out which one held better return to peak torque area after a shift.
The fuel will gain more power in higher performance bikes, but still 3 hp from fuel alone is awesome, for a race or drag only bike. At $25 per gallon its definitely not feasible to run on the street. Plain old 87 octane is the best for the Vmax I found. Higher octane in the Vmax made less power and made the bike run slower down the 1/4 mile. I can show you the time slips lol.
Ignition timing on these bikes isn't as critical as say on my ZX14. In general until you really start to heavily modify these bikes internally, most of the factory settings are pretty good.
A bike making 106 hp on one dyno, might pull 112 or heck even 118 hp on another dyno.
Vmax Mike had his bike on the dyno a few times if I recall, he made 117 hp on one and I think 118 on another. It might have been 121. I don't remember , maybe he will chime in. But numbers aside regardless, his bike would pull evenly out of the hole with me at one track. I was running I believe 11.30's and he was running 11.80's. I don't remember all the numbers, but I want to say 60 ft times I was only .02-.05 ahead of him in some instances. So he was hanging with me till the 60 ft mark, but from there on it was me pulling him down the track with the gain opening up the farther we went.
My point is I guess Vmax Mike had more work done to his bike, jetted carbs, dyna ignition, ufo pipes and dyno tuned. I had Marks exhaust....So these bikes are pretty well setup from the factory. You can make them a tad bit better, but not without really digging into them and spending money.
How much money you want to throw in them and what you want to accomplish is the question. I don't personally like to get hung up on numbers from a dyno, but we do because everyone (most) people understand a dyno number as a baseline.
My turbo bike only made 228 hp on a dyno in Ohio, but made 248 hp on Ryan Schnitz dyno, and then made 246 hp on a local dyno. So why was the Ohio dyno different? Operator, temperature etc. Or could be different reading settings.
Regardless of numbers if the bike runs good and strong, thats all that matters. And the Vmax runs good and strong right out of the box. Add an exhaust and possibly tune the carbs and you have about the best your going to get without going internal and spending big money.
I like your approach at dyno'ing one item at a time. It will help you understand better whats going on and why.
Todd
