Awesome. I have cops & resistors with ignitech. Sean M is sending me a set of non resistor cops. I'll gap new ngks at .038 and switch the dwell to auto. Let you know how she goes in a few days I hope.
Dale
Dale
Dyno'd the bike today.
- Thread starter Traumahawk
- Start date
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Installed above bike runs great. Smoother than it's been in awhile but I also fixed a slightly sticking slide at the same time. I need to run through a few tanks of gas before I comment on mileage.
Dale
Thanks for the heads up. I would suspect that the mileage will improve because now your burning more of the fuel.
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I dunno that the RC Components wheel is 'costing you HP.' If weight was 'bad' then why don't all crankshafts have very low-weight counterweights? Because they balance against the reciprocating parts above them, and they help to smooth the power impulses. Also, the inherent imbalance of a particular design of engine, including the #/cylinders, the spacing of the pistons relative to one another, measured in degrees, the firing order ('cross-plane' crankshafts used by Yamaha and now Ford, besides Ferrari) the rev limit of the engine, the use to which it's going to be put, all affect the design considerations. I think Sean has pointed out multiple times that a 9K redline or thereabouts produces sufficient HP to have fun at the track, and allows the engine to live. If you run higher rpm's then your entire engine is stressed beyond its design parameters, and modifying it to live at higher revs is an expensive proposition. Pretty-much everything needs to be 'touched,' depending on what additional rev capacity you want. We already know the #3 big end rod is prone to oil-related failure. Running the engine higher is going to make that moment when the engine has a failure, come sooner than if you use a rev-limiter and save yourself the expense of rebuilding an engine.
Look at the Morley's Muscle build sheets in excel, and see what's involved in getting to the point of big increases over stock. To make it live, there are many associated parts and machining procedures. If you want to 'go Big,' then spend the $$$ to do it right, and don't think that spinning the engine higher is 'free HP,' because it will cost you dearly in the long (or perhaps 'short!') run.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21873&highlight=dyno+dilemma
I'm sure you are probably familiar w/most if not all of this, but there are many members on here who may not have much experience in bikes, and who think that, "if he's running to 10,000 rpm, then I can run to 11,000 rpm to make more HP!" They will soon find themselves faced w/a repair bill for engine work >the value of their bike.
If you were going to be like Bill Werner and to go the Bonneville, then that heavy rear wheel would probably assist you in getting the power to the ground, given the notorious nature of the traction limitation to be found in UT.
One of the ideas for increasing mileage in vehicles is the use of a flywheel energy storage system. These have a potential for storing prodigious amounts of energy, and in 'feeding it back' into the drivetrain. Unfortunately, they also have a potential for tremendous damage since they may spin at 100,000 rpm. They require heavy protection to safely operate and to not come adrift in the event of an accident. Think of those wheel/balls in the movie "Battleship," cutting thru the US Navy vessels.
Anyway, the path to extending your redline is neither easy, nor cheap, and you may not be happy w/how things turn out, in use, unless you go all the way w/the required modifications.
I'd just go buy a Gen II and save myself a lot of time money and aggravation.
Look at the Morley's Muscle build sheets in excel, and see what's involved in getting to the point of big increases over stock. To make it live, there are many associated parts and machining procedures. If you want to 'go Big,' then spend the $$$ to do it right, and don't think that spinning the engine higher is 'free HP,' because it will cost you dearly in the long (or perhaps 'short!') run.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21873&highlight=dyno+dilemma
I'm sure you are probably familiar w/most if not all of this, but there are many members on here who may not have much experience in bikes, and who think that, "if he's running to 10,000 rpm, then I can run to 11,000 rpm to make more HP!" They will soon find themselves faced w/a repair bill for engine work >the value of their bike.
If you were going to be like Bill Werner and to go the Bonneville, then that heavy rear wheel would probably assist you in getting the power to the ground, given the notorious nature of the traction limitation to be found in UT.
One of the ideas for increasing mileage in vehicles is the use of a flywheel energy storage system. These have a potential for storing prodigious amounts of energy, and in 'feeding it back' into the drivetrain. Unfortunately, they also have a potential for tremendous damage since they may spin at 100,000 rpm. They require heavy protection to safely operate and to not come adrift in the event of an accident. Think of those wheel/balls in the movie "Battleship," cutting thru the US Navy vessels.
Anyway, the path to extending your redline is neither easy, nor cheap, and you may not be happy w/how things turn out, in use, unless you go all the way w/the required modifications.
I'd just go buy a Gen II and save myself a lot of time money and aggravation.
And kind of like you. .....I'm unsure of the 10000 rpm red line....cause I know that the vmax will rev to failure. I'm fairly certain that the rc wheel is costing hp. ..because it's an increase in unsprung vs sprung weight. That's why the carrazerrias (sp) are a good wheel to have...because they are lighter....or lighter pulleys will allow an engine to rev quicker. It's the same principal with wheels. All total the rc wheel is about 25 lbs heavier than a mounted stock wheel.
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The Gen 2s will still have to come down a bit in price.....until then I will continue to tinker with a Gen 1.
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Here is a really good article about the effects of upsized wheels.
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested
http://www.caranddriver.com/features/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Are you running stg 7 needles with Sean's kit?
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hypermax
Well-Known Member
Yep....very similar. What are your mains and needles set on?
hypermax
Well-Known Member
155 MK mains
Stage 7 needles at 3.5
Stage 7 needles at 3.5
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Good info guys. You're both similar to mine although I haven't done any dyno work. 155 mains stage 7 needles at 3 clip. COPs and Plugs at .038. Runs smooth there and I'm leaving it!
Trauma I don't know how you get yours to run at 1.5 clip - disregard , I see now you've got FP needles.
Dale
Trauma I don't know how you get yours to run at 1.5 clip - disregard , I see now you've got FP needles.
Dale
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Looking good and a big improvement to the stock.
adambweird
Well-Known Member
Your identical to me veebooster with the exception of the needle, im running at 2.5 notches with the stage 7 needles. I think my gap might be a lil bit smaller too, cant remember, lol. Gotta hit a dyno some day to get some numbers. Ill say this though, a BIG thank you to Traumahawk/Eric for all the help/advice hes given me to help me with my tuning.
thor_eyerdhal
Well-Known Member
Your AF is very rich under 6K.
When Vboost is closed mixture is richer, but this is very rich, even with the stock combo!!
