evans waterless coolant

[huskyman510]

Just seeing if anyone has or is using evans waterless coolant in there bike? Is this stuff the real deal? Looks pretty impressive.
Saw it when I was flicking through jay leno`s garage clips on you tube.

Also any good tips on flushing the cooling system? unsure if mines ever been done right. my drain stop cock seems to just drip when open is this normal?
Ive been told not to use a chemical cleaner as this can cause more harm than good?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

 

[VMax-Mike]

I would research it a little deeper than just the video and i will. Sounds like a great deal to me.

 

[huskyman510]

Whats going on here 150 plus views and only 1 comment??

 

[Traumahawk]

Whats going on here 150 plus views and only 1 comment??

Well I havent commented because I'm curious to see what you find out about this. How well it works....etc...

As far as flushing out the system, I have heard vinegar and water works well, and I believe the concentration of vinegar is supposed to be around 25%.

There are some O rings there around the cooling system on and off switch, that might need to be changed. I havent ever changed mine yet, so I cant talk about the procedure...etc.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Don't know about the product but every single time I have used a commercial flush product on any engine I have ended up with more problems than I started with. So no I will never use one again. If a basic water flush won't get it out then it's time for a radiator rebuild, although vinegar and water sound safe enough.
As for the product itself. And admittedly I have not viewed the video, I am of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought and have been getting by just fine on distilled water and regular antifreeze just fine.

 

[huskyman510]

Well I havent commented because I'm curious to see what you find out about this. How well it works....etc...

As far as flushing out the system, I have heard vinegar and water works well, and I believe the concentration of vinegar is supposed to be around 25%.

There are some O rings there around the cooling system on and off switch, that might need to be changed. I havent ever changed mine yet, so I cant talk about the procedure...etc.

Yeah I thought a product thats seems so good isnt more widely used, being about $100 in Aus to get some to my door is a bit rich but hey if it does what it says it may be worth it?

I had never thought those radiator flush treatments could be doing harm, I did read somewhere about the water vinegar thing so may give that a try :hmmm:

 

[MaxMidnight]

I guess this could make sense if you intended to keep a vehicle for a long time.
In the UK that would need to be some 17 -18 years (if you also use the Evans prep fluid) before you would break even.

IMHO the other argument are less persuasive:

• Higher boiling point:
  • An advantage if one habitually wants/ needs to remove the radiator pressure cap on a hot engine but for most of us no benefit.
  • The thermostat is designed to keep a motor at the correct running temperature. The BP of the coolant is irrelevant provided the temperature remains below this.
  • You would not get any warning, such as coolant coming from the overflow, should the coolant temperature significantly exceed the design parameter.
• Corrosion inhibition.
  • The only time that I have experienced issues has been when I ran a motor with little or no inhibitor. I did see erosion similar to that in the video. However with the recommended 50/ 50 fill I haven't had any issues.
  • The introduction of Oxygen will be minimal (I would have thought) as ours is a semi-sealed system.
• Toxicity.
  • No argument with that feature but we should keep the problem in perspective. I am not aware of high cat or dog mortality where I live due to them licking up spilled coolant. Nor of children drinking the stuff. The main issue would be disposal and there could be issues there particularly if drains are used. There seems to be little information of the correct way but it would seem that flushing down the toilet (but see below) is OK for small quantities. It should never be disposed of directly into watercourses, drainage systems that are untreated or septic tanks.

Bottom line is that it won't fix a bad cooling system and it is down to the individual to weigh up the cost/ benefit ratio.

I'll just carry on using the long life coolant.

 

[88vmx12]

When I was on a race team like NASCAR, we used some stuff called "water wetter"

 

[Traumahawk]

I have water wetter at home.....and I have added it to the bike before.

 

[alorio1]

You have to wonder will this lubricate the mechanical seal in the vmax water pump also......

 

[maleko89]

Agreed. I don't even both flushing coolant, it's not necessary IMO.

Don't know about the product but every single time I have used a commercial flush product on any engine I have ended up with more problems than I started with. So no I will never use one again. If a basic water flush won't get it out then it's time for a radiator rebuild, although vinegar and water sound safe enough.
As for the product itself. And admittedly I have not viewed the video, I am of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought and have been getting by just fine on distilled water and regular antifreeze just fine.

 

[Traumahawk]

You have to wonder will this lubricate the mechanical seal in the vmax water pump also......

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

Here is from the company website.

Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature

 

[davesax36]

So who's gonna be the first to run this stuff?

 

[alorio1]

I will Dave, order it and have it shipped to me:rofl_200::rofl_200:

So who's gonna be the first to run this stuff?

 

[fogman62]

was researching evans coolant and came across this, interesting read.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

will answer some questions.

 

[huskyman510]

was researching evans coolant and came across this, interesting read.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm

will answer some questions.

Enough said I think, interesting how some things come across as brilliant engineering and all they really are is a money making substitute for what already works great.

Interesting to see the stuff is banned at race tracks and evans proudly say race cars use there product

 

[Miles Long]

I will Dave, order it and have it shipped to me:rofl_200:

Don't do it, Joe, even if Dave pays!
'Cause it will still cost you, when you have to switch to premium gas, and you lose horsepower, adding insult to injury.

SUMMARY OF FINDINGS
Conversion costs of $259 if you do it yourself, or over $400 if you pay a shop to do it.
97%+ removal of all previous coolant is mandatory in order to prevent corrosion.
Inhibitor deposition occurs on aluminum surfaces, which could cause issues in some radiators.
Engines run 115-140oF hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Evans products.
Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion.
Reprogramming ECU fan temp settings is mandatory to prevent the fan from running continuously.
Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.
Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers.
Computerized ignition must retard engine timing by 8-10o to prevent trace knock.
Engine horsepower is reduced by 4-5%.
Accelerated recession of non-hardened valve seats in older engines is possible, due to brinelling.
Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.
Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity.
Race tracks prohibit Evans products because they are flammable and slippery when spilled.


My own scientific summary.....
SNAKE OIL. Let Leno use it.unk:
Cheers!

 

[alorio1]

+1 DITTO

I will Dave, order it and have it shipped to me:rofl_200:

Don't do it, Joe, even if Dave pays!
'Cause it will still cost you, when you have to switch to premium gas, and you lose horsepower, adding insult to injury.

SUMMARY OF FINDINGS
Conversion costs of $259 if you do it yourself, or over $400 if you pay a shop to do it.
97%+ removal of all previous coolant is mandatory in order to prevent corrosion.
Inhibitor deposition occurs on aluminum surfaces, which could cause issues in some radiators.
Engines run 115-140oF hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Evans products.
Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion.
Reprogramming ECU fan temp settings is mandatory to prevent the fan from running continuously.
Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.
Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers.
Computerized ignition must retard engine timing by 8-10o to prevent trace knock.
Engine horsepower is reduced by 4-5%.
Accelerated recession of non-hardened valve seats in older engines is possible, due to brinelling.
Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.
Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity.
Race tracks prohibit Evans products because they are flammable and slippery when spilled.


My own scientific summary.....
SNAKE OIL. Let Leno use it.unk:
Cheers!

 

[sdt354]

Staying with Long Life pre mixed here. Never an issue in over 10 years. I drain it every couple of years because I'm always doing something. A couple of ounces of vinegar and water for flushing works for me.