Exhaust advice 4 into 1

[digger440]

4 into 1 is mandatory for me as I much prefer the note on almost all bikes. After hearing this Vmax with a Kerker 4 into 1 I fell in love with the way that exhaust sounds.



However, the cheapest I have found a full Kerker system is a little north of $1200.00 and you have to cut the center stand tabs off which is not something I want to do.

I have read on here that most 4 into 1 systems dyno and tune very similarly, so it is a matter of tracking down a good sound for a price.

As far as approximate price point Voodoo is $700 and Starrider is $800. Do you have to cut off the center stand tabs with either one of these?

I have heard Mark's performance tossed around a couple times but no website (only an email address). Does anyone know the cost/sound/fitment of these?

Any ideas as to what may sound like the Kerker system in the video, that doesn't require the tabs to be cut, for the best price point.

 

[02GF74]

Setting the vboost so it is fully open changes the sound at idle.
Give that a go.

To do it, turn off f the ignition when the vboost valve is fully open, which occurs every time after the ignition is switched on.

Then unplug the circular plug from vboost module to the servo motor.

If you don't like it, reconnect the plug.

 

[veebooster]

Look at the Hindle 4-1. Keep the center stand tabs.

 

[desert_max]

Setting the vboost so it is fully open changes the sound at idle.
Give that a go.

To do it, turn off f the ignition when the vboost valve is fully open, which occurs every time after the ignition is switched on.

Then unplug the circular plug from vboost module to the servo motor.

If you don't like it, reconnect the plug.

A lot of folks recommend this procedure to "fully open" the Vboost butterflies, but the problem is that it can be hit or miss. You really have no way of knowing whether they are truly fully open or not. This method I use might be just a bit more trouble, but you know what you have when you're done - no questions asked.

Access one of the many Vboost threads here and take note of the pin locations of the circular connector. The servo runs in both forward and reverse. You can visually observe its operation if you were down at engine level with a scoop off. Fully forward is fully open.

Application of 12 volts in either the forward or the reverse direction allows you to position the servo and butterfly assembly wherever you want it. Again, fully forward is fully open. Apply voltage to the pins that move the servo forward and it'll go there and hold. Done.

You only need to do it once unless you go back and forth between boost on and boost off. The fumble with the connector while the servo operation is underway. And there's the uncertainty of where the position of the servo ends up.

 

[digger440]

I will pass on opening the V-Boost permanently, that is a sure way to kill low end power.

I just want to know about exhaust. Off to check out Hindle

 

[desert_max]

I will pass on opening the V-Boost permanently, that is a sure way to kill low end power.

I just want to know about exhaust. Off to check out Hindle

Tell that the guys running the Stage 7 configuration…

Enjoy the Hindle.

 

[CaptainKyle]

Tell that the guys running the Stage 7 configuration…

Enjoy the Hindle.

I have been running my own stage 7 setup with vboost still active for years ! It pulled harder made more power and a smoother line on the dyno than with it being wide open. I wish I could find the dyno sheets.

 

[Parminio]

There's "keeping" the center stand and "still being able to use" the center stand.

All of the Star Rider Performance 4 into 1 systems will let you "still use" the center stand by putting it under the bike onto the tab area when you go to work on it, but it will not be permanently attached to the bike.

 

[PATMAX]

Or just buy the bost eliminator tubes. Easy to revert, no damage done. Low end power?! I’m launching int the power band ! LOL. Streetwise, that is a consideration I suppose.