RagingMain
Well-Known Member
Not yet, been taking care of other stuff. Will do it tonight while the Girlie Friend is at work.
Fargo's dilemma
- Thread starter RagingMain
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RagingMain
Well-Known Member
Alright I am back to the adjustable needles
2 clip this time from the blunt end.
3 turns on the screws
150 mains.
I swear this thing goes out of sync at least once a month.
It was running like crap at idle so I checked it. It was off, again.
After getting back it idles better and the A/F is better.
Havent taken it out yet.
Probably tomorrow, going to go see Bawls out in Corona and see how it rides.
Will set up a dyno for Thursday and see how it goes.
Mark, I also made that one change you told me about. Will keep you posted on that as well
Cheers
2 clip this time from the blunt end.
3 turns on the screws
150 mains.
I swear this thing goes out of sync at least once a month.
It was running like crap at idle so I checked it. It was off, again.
After getting back it idles better and the A/F is better.
Havent taken it out yet.
Probably tomorrow, going to go see Bawls out in Corona and see how it rides.
Will set up a dyno for Thursday and see how it goes.
Mark, I also made that one change you told me about. Will keep you posted on that as well
Cheers
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Manual does say sync is due about once a month..
I guess they are only screws with springs, and if the springs get tired the screws may vibrate out of adjustment prematurely. I wonder if adding small washers in there to preload the springs would help? Also you could use a rubber washer or a spring washer :confused2:
I guess they are only screws with springs, and if the springs get tired the screws may vibrate out of adjustment prematurely. I wonder if adding small washers in there to preload the springs would help? Also you could use a rubber washer or a spring washer :confused2:
Birdoprey
Well-Known Member
More than likely. I think Fargo is so obsessed with the a/f meter that he checks his lawn mower! Heard him mention having a bung welded into the front of his helmet to check HIS a/f(fuel does'nt have to be gasoline. Can be other fuels like Alcohol!!!):rofl_200:
TURBOVMAX
Well-Known Member
Your funny! ..... lookin. Don't quit your day job. :biglaugh:
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hah right, reason i asked is he said all screws are 3 turns out. shouldn't they all be different?
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
They are all just a bit different but for the sake of the forum I just rounded up or down.
Its written down in my maintence manual where they are at.
Yes I am obsessed with this A/F meter. Tried using it once to test my breath after getting drunk...dont remember much after that :rofl_200::rofl_200:
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
ok i gotcha. i mean i assumed u did each by the book, just wanted to make sure.
well u should have another to play with soon enough.
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
Quick update
Have another Dyno Scheduled for tomorrow. This time I rented the dyno for an hour to get as many pulls as I can with any work that needs to be done. I will do the work but at least I wont have to keep going back.
Just for future reference I did some comparing last night.
Ignore for a minute that the stage one needles are a bit thinner and a different taper.
The Adjustable needles when on the first clip with a .020" shim are the same length as the stock.
So right now with the adjustables on the second clip it would be the same as the stock needles w/ one shim.
Of course the taper helps a bit in richening it up.
Went out today and wound her up. Doesnt like first gear much but pulls pretty hard through the rest of the RPM range.
I did one other change that I am going to wait to report on until I see what the dyno says. Dont want to blow my load prematurely.
Cheers
Have another Dyno Scheduled for tomorrow. This time I rented the dyno for an hour to get as many pulls as I can with any work that needs to be done. I will do the work but at least I wont have to keep going back.
Just for future reference I did some comparing last night.
Ignore for a minute that the stage one needles are a bit thinner and a different taper.
The Adjustable needles when on the first clip with a .020" shim are the same length as the stock.
So right now with the adjustables on the second clip it would be the same as the stock needles w/ one shim.
Of course the taper helps a bit in richening it up.
Went out today and wound her up. Doesnt like first gear much but pulls pretty hard through the rest of the RPM range.
I did one other change that I am going to wait to report on until I see what the dyno says. Dont want to blow my load prematurely.
Cheers
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
California isnt as nice as some places, it is costing $100 per hour. Hopefully I only need one hour.
vmax626
Well-Known Member
I hope that you get it right `cause I might be next in line.
<<Dave>>:biglaugh:
<<Dave>>:biglaugh:
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Thats a good deal, up here its $100 for 4 pulls with no nitrous pulls allowed. You have total one hour (including the pulls) to get the tune right.
yea, i already paid him a bit tho to initially install the jet kit. he built the 636 HP busa that did the mile in like 265 mph, so he knows his shit. anyways, i don't knwo what it would be to rent it for a day or something. speaking of which maybe i'll talk to the eastern folks and see if anyone wants to get in on a day-long rent if he'd offer it.
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
Ok so this is the pull with the needles on the 2nd clip still with mains at 150
As you can see the mid got better but the mains are lean.
My plan is to jump the mains to 152.5 and lean out the needles. First Clip with one shim. Se what happens there.
The red line is my right cylinders (3&4). The blue is the left (1&2). Something is up there as well.
Still need to figure out what is causing the shake up at 7k at up.
Talked to the dyno operator about why the HP and Torque curve match each other. His explanation was since the drum measures acceleration they will mimic each other if the bike is missing
Also I put up another graph, same one but extrapolated to what it might be if I get this all worked out :clapping:
As you can see the mid got better but the mains are lean.
My plan is to jump the mains to 152.5 and lean out the needles. First Clip with one shim. Se what happens there.
The red line is my right cylinders (3&4). The blue is the left (1&2). Something is up there as well.
Still need to figure out what is causing the shake up at 7k at up.
Talked to the dyno operator about why the HP and Torque curve match each other. His explanation was since the drum measures acceleration they will mimic each other if the bike is missing
Also I put up another graph, same one but extrapolated to what it might be if I get this all worked out :clapping:
Attachments
without reading into the HP and TQ numbers b/c i have no idea how that would happen i think upping the mains and then keeping the needles where they are (by leaning them for the larger new main) u'll be pretty close fargo.
are u still feeling that top end 'miss'?
RagingMain
Well-Known Member
Yep Garrett I am still feeling the top end miss.
My experience has shown that if I fatten up the mains it will fatten up the mid as well.
If I were to leave the needles alone the mid will just get richer hence why I was thinking of dropping the needles half a clip.
Birdoprey
Well-Known Member
Thats what i would do. I think you'll be real close then...
