Flywheel Removal Help Please.....

[nightwalks]

Hi All, new here, trying to desperately remove the flywheel on my '05 to access the starter-clutch issue. I have tried 3- different HD interior pullers and a hammer and even a torch on the center-shaft collar and NOTHING.

I have beat it so hard I am afraid I am going to damage the shaft, any ideas on how to get this thing off? Doesn't just "pop off" like the guy's in the video....:bang head:

 

[jdeitz1979]

Hi All, new here, trying to desperately remove the flywheel on my '05 to access the starter-clutch issue. I have tried 3- different HD interior pullers and a hammer and even a torch on the center-shaft collar and NOTHING.

I have beat it so hard I am afraid I am going to damage the shaft, any ideas on how to get this thing off? Doesn't just "pop off" like the guy's in the video....:bang head:

You have to be very careful, but put the bolt back in, don’t thread it in all the way, and use a pry bar. Grab from behind and just give a little bump on the bar, should move. I am going to tell you now, to use reason and some thought when doing this. It’s not a method some will approve of, but I had it happen to me and that’s what I did. Maybe you’ll want to use a cloth or a piece of plastic or something for the bar to pry against.


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[nightwalks]

I will give it a shot first thing in the AM, thanks!

 

[MaxMidnight]

It’s not a method some will approve of...

I fall into that category and I see the potential for significant damage.

You need to ensure that there is minimal flex in the puller.
Look at this which shows how to construct a puller that works.
When I made my posts I had to add a champfer to the flywheel end of the posts.

Once installed onto the flywheel tighten the centre nut and give a sharp tap with (ideally) a copper mallet which has some mass but won't damage the hex on the centre nut.
Keep tightening and hitting until the flywheel gives in.

 

[AJBinVA]

Just pulled the flywheel on my spare venture engine the other day. It was a bit stubborn. PO had removed the covers so it was a little weathered. I used the same method as in the video and just had to be a little patient. Good bolts (the ones that came with the puller stretched and broke rather easily) and a harmonic balancer puller. Snugged the puller bolt with the impact and whacked it solid with a 5lb maul. Snugged some more. Another hard whack. Snugged some more. Made a sandwich and Snugged again and another whack. Took about 6 shots at it but it came off eventually. Definitely not as easily in Sean's video but using the same method and persistence and possibly a touch of heat.

 

[one2dmax]

The key is in the bolts! The best bolts you can get are the answer.

 

[jdeitz1979]

I fall into that category and I see the potential for significant damage.



You need to ensure that there is minimal flex in the puller.

Look at this which shows how to construct a puller that works.

When I made my posts I had to add a champfer to the flywheel end of the posts.



Once installed onto the flywheel tighten the centre nut and give a sharp tap with (ideally) a copper mallet which has some mass but won't damage the hex on the centre nut.

Keep tightening and hitting until the flywheel gives in.

That’s good info, and worth grabbing or making for sure. When I did that method to mine, it took such little pressure, I was simply amazed that the puller wouldn’t touch it but a simple bump from the back did. But after swing your link, I’d much rather invest in that.


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[sdt354]

Lots of threads here on taking them off. The puller must be aligned straight and square to the flywheel. +1 on high grade bolts. Heat if you must. Hitting the center puller bolt after every tightening is the key.

 

[PATMAX]

What I took from the Guru Sean Morley video is to preload the center bolt on your puller as much as you can. I use a 1/2 inch pneumatic impact driver til it absolutely can give you any more. Once that's done a 2lb sledge right on the center bolt makes the whole assemble just "jump" off right in your hand. Don't be a pussy when hitting it ! And don't forget to zip tie the the starter clutch to the flywheel to keep it all one piece until you decide to disassemble it all. You don't want all those roller pins and small parts go flying and trying to figure out have they go back. Thanks again Sean for your now ancient video !

 

[nightwalks]

Lots of great advice, thanks everyone, back to the drawing board.....

 

[Fire-medic]

Stand to the side when hitting the center bolt, not in-direct line with it. You don't want the flying rotor to hit you in the bvd's! Many people use a heavy towel or something wrapped-over the side of the engine to snag the flying rotor when it finally releases, a tip that has been mentioned by many who have tried to remove their rotors. Using some tie-downs could also limit the movement, on-top of the wrapped towel.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Check out this thread. It has 2 videos with it too for removing the flywheel.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Stand to the side when hitting the center bolt, not in-direct line with it. You don't want the flying rotor to hit you in the bvd's! Many people use a heavy towel or something wrapped-over the side of the engine to snag the flying rotor when it finally releases, a tip that has been mentioned by many who have tried to remove their rotors. Using some tie-downs could also limit the movement, on-top of the wrapped towel.

That is only necessary if you use a lightweight puller and/ or bolts that stretch which store energy and act as a spring.

The design described in the link (my post#4) prevents this happening.
The only thing I would add is that something soft for the flywheel land on would be prudent.

 

[racerboy]

ok,
I think I know why my bike will not start after removing the flywheel and repairing the starter clutch. If you notice on the magnet flywheel, there are timing marks, T1 and T2. As you put the wheel back on and line up the woodruff etc, turn the crank to the position where as T1 and there are 2 stamped vertical lines which should be visible as you peer thru the hole on the outside of the cover. The stationary mark which is a piece of pointed metal that sticks out towards the flywheel to indicate that the marks are lined up. The factory manual does not say anything about after flywheel removal, that the crank should be turned until the mark is lined up to the stationary point. Im deducing since the timing marks are off, the bike will not start, or not producing the right current flow or something. Please someone, tell me if im right.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Er, you are wrong.

The reason that the T1 & T2 marks are not mentioned when replacing the flywheel is because it isn't relevant.
The marks are only used when re-installing the camshafts (p3-74 of the Service Manual refers) and have no bearing on the timing.

The timing is non-adjustable so provided that you have located the flywheel onto the crank with the Woodruff key it will be correct.
The ignition is a wasted spark system (i.e. the plugs fire every rotation of the crank) so the position of the crank relative to the pick-up(s) is not relevant.

If all you have done is replaced the starter clutch and the bike won't start then you will need to look for another cause. :ummm:

 

[D-Max2012]

I just did this job last weekend.
I had planned to do the Starter clutch last year and started getting some needed tools.
Well, 2 weekends ago, I messed up my pulser coil pickup, by over revving in 1st gear, which made that thin metal plate that covers the starter clutch to explode. This slammed into my pulser pick-up coil, knocking it out of position (no Spark to any plugs), and left me stranded. I ordered a replacement Clutch and Pulser Pick-up coil.

I picked up the Heavy Duty Electric Impact Wrench from Harbor Freight (HF).


I also picked up one of HF Gear puller sets..



I had to make a run to Lowes to pick up a metric bolt to match the needed length for the Max.. I noticed that the Black Bolts that comes with this set is Metric and the Chrome ones are SAE. I had to pick up an M8-1.25 x 90 Class 8.8 Cap Screw so that I'd have 3. (Don't know why they'd sell a 3 point puller with only 2 bolts of a particular length - This makes no sense to me).

Anyway, I was ready with my 2.5 lbs hammer (also from HF), to bang the hell out of this thing..


I used the impact wrench to loosen the flywheel center bolt. (worked like a charm).
I decided to loosen it about 4mm out, because I did not want the flywheel to really go flying. :biglaugh:

Well, that wrench was so strong, and it had such a impact knock, that it deformed the cheapo washers that came with the puller and popped my flywheel off in one shot, No hammer needed. (I plan to get some heavy duty steel washers for the future).

Since I had to replace my pulser pick-up coil, I had to make sure it was wired with the right polarity. If not, the engine would just crank and POP, but would not start. So, if you find that after you've completed your work, test your pick-up coil to make sure it's within spec. You may have a broken wire or something that's preventing the pulse detection.

 

[[email protected]]

Check wires coming from stator and pickup. They may have been damaged during installation

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[racerboy]

Well it was a good gesture, found the problem, all is gtg.

 

[one2dmax]

And, what was the problem?

 

[D-Max2012]

Looks like Racerboy fixed his issue, what ever that was.

This is directed at the narrator of this thread, Nightwalks.
Where you able to get things sorted out??