Fork Spacer Length

[gofast68]

Does anyone know the length of the stock spacer in the front forks of a '94 Max? I pulled mine apart to fix a leaky fork seal and found the previous owner had scabbed some PVC pipe in place of the stock spacers. I would like to start fresh with the correct length spacer while I rebuild these. The PVC pieces were not the same length. :bang head:

Any idea's?

 

[Transam]

Sounds like someone may have installed some
aftermarket springs . My understanding is that
the pvc spacers are the giveaway.

 

[gofast68]

They did. It has Progressive's in them.

 

[gamorg02]

They did. It has Progressive's in them.

haven't done the progressive on the vmax, but on my GS500 the springs came with PVC pipe for us to cut inorder to make up the difference, i had to cut it .75 inches.

I bet someone here knows what progressive recommends for the PVC pipe length.

also make sure there is a washer between the PVC and the spring.

there was quite a list that the springs we got for the gs500 of bikes that those springs fit with various (0 - 6") PVC pieces needed to make up the difference. I don't think a vmax was listed but i can check when i get home if no one here has it offhand.

 

[BLKMAX]

Here's a text file that I used to get the length of my spacers.




Wow ! At least maybe you will learn how to set the sag ...or what is really called the ride height of the bike .

For those who are about to go down the road of spring replacement let me put it real simple ....it does not matter if it is Progressive ..RaceTech ...with or with out emulators.... the procedure is still the same ...

Install what you are using....springs ....emulators....washers ....etc . Then drop in the new spacer from the kit.....take a 6 inch metal rule.....slide it down into the tube just to the bottom of the threads that are inside the tube......at the one inch mark on the ruler minus the thickness of the top washer that is installed with the screw in cap....mark the spacer tube.....cut it off at the mark and save the short piece. The best way to cut the tube is with a common tubing cutter . The measurement is 1 inch ....minus the top washer thickness .

Now that short piece that was left over.....it is used on the other side.....stack everything up in the tube....drop in the stock spacer....then a washer...then the short piece......measure and cut the short piece ....Believe me guys the spring does not care if the spacer is one piece or ten pieces....it does not know .

It takes me longer to type this massage ....than to set up the preload on a spring ....

Now after all the years with the guys doing this we have found out that there is a common set up .....it you load up the spring and you can not get the sag right with in a + or - 1/4 of an inch in length in the spacer....and or ....the front end is too harsh or too soft ....You have the wrong spring for your situation .

With the oil.......no emulator...15wt for most.......with emulators...20wt for most and it takes about 19 oz in a late model fork.with emulators....and 21 without them .

This all puts you in the ball park without any adjustments for most .

Ride the bike and enjoy it .




Hope this helps,
Joe

 

[82ndCowboy]

I have my stock spacer sitting on the work bench at home. When I get home tonight I'll measure them for you.
But BLXMAX is right. The length of the spacer is determined by how much sag you want.
The best place to start is between 5/8 of an inch to 1&1/4 inch preload.
Preload is the length of the spring sticks up above the top of the fork.
If you want more sag, start with 5/8 if you want less sag start with 1&1/4.
I basically split the difference and I'm happy with it. and sag came out right.
Couple things to remember.
Preload is measure from where the cap seals (it does not seal on the top of the fork) and the bottom of the cap or bottom of washer if one is used with the cap. The newer style forks, the fork cap is set down in the tube. Not at the top. Mine measured at .75 from the top of the fork. So you have to subtract that if your measuring from the top of the tube.
I'll post a diagram which illustrates it better when I get home tonight.

 

[gofast68]

I have my stock spacer sitting on the work bench at home. When I get home tonight I'll measure them for you.
But BLXMAX is right. The length of the spacer is determined by how much sag you want.
The best place to start is between 5/8 of an inch to 1&1/4 inch preload.
Preload is the length of the spring sticks up above the top of the fork.
If you want more sag, start with 5/8 if you want less sag start with 1&1/4.
I basically split the difference and I'm happy with it. and sag came out right.
Couple things to remember.
Preload is measure from where the cap seals (it does not seal on the top of the fork) and the bottom of the cap or bottom of washer if one is used with the cap. The newer style forks, the fork cap is set down in the tube. Not at the top. Mine measured at .75 from the top of the fork. So you have to subtract that if your measuring from the top of the tube.
I'll post a diagram which illustrates it better when I get home tonight.

Thank you!

 

[82ndCowboy]

Sorry I totally bombed on getting this posted for you last night.
But when you have a choice between computer work and spending time with a lil hunny, the lil hunny will always come first.
So, my apologies!

But Any way....

My stock spacers are 9-5/8th inches long.
My stock pre-load (from the top of the fork tube) with stock springs was 1.20 inches.
I never measured my stock sag or fork oil level, so I can't give you that info.

 

[82ndCowboy]

OK here's that diagram I mentioned.

Cept on the 93 and up forks, the top of the fork tube sticks up above where the cap seal lip is, about .75 of an inch. The oring on the 93 and up forks is also above the cap seal lip. I think the oring is more to keep water out more than it is to keep the fork oil in.

 

[gofast68]

Thanks for the input guys. Got it all buttoned up today and lowered 2" up front. Looks good with the lowered rear shocks. Again, thanks for the help!!

-Jeremy