Front End Wobble

[Ukemax]

Looking for any tips on where to start...

2010, Gen II with 41k on it. Just before I put it away a month and a half ago. Before I put it away I could feel a wobble, really slight if I took my hands of the bars between 45-55 MPH. Inspected the front tire (Shinkp Verge) and found a bubble on the tread. Replaced both front and rear ties (New Shinkos) and also replaced the rear shock.
Wobble became worse at the same speed (had the tire rebalanced). The only way to partially mitigate the wobble was to run the front tire PSI at 42. Since It's down for the summer I was thinking may be a good time to replace the head and swing arm bearings. Or do I go back th the Battleaxe's. This is my second pair of Shinko's, no issues with the first pair.

 

[one2dmax]

You may want to search and find my youtube video on setting steering head bearing tension. Most likely too loose based on your description of the problem.

 

[Ukemax]

Thanks Sean, I have front and rear stands but no way to jack the bike up from the middle so I just tried pulling on the front forks, nothing moved but I'm sure that's not going to tell me anything unless they were ridculosly loose.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

I had a bad front end wobble on my 2009. In the end, it was garbage tires. Like you, I ran Shinkos because everyone said they were the ****. The first one I put on, the bike was downright dangerous. The second one, the wobble was lots less, but still there. First tire, I put maybe 500 on it. Second tire maybe 4000. I am now running mismatched tires. Dunlop up front, Shinko in the back.

Now, because it doesnt seem like too many folks really ride as much as I do....from what I have been able to gather....this bike will trash front tires faster than it will eat rears if you actually ride the bike. The racers and burn out folks will give you differing opinions on that assessment. I have put 20K on my bike in 2 years. Mostly highway riding. Yes....I will punch it off the line where appropriate. But I can maintain speed of 80-100mph with no issues cause of my highway system in my locale.

I ran Metzlers when I first got the bike. Back tire wore fine. The front wore into a "W" pattern. Then I decided to heed advice here and go for Shinko. Shinko tires were basically unrideable. The loyalty here to these tires were the reason I did not bring up the issue. Putting that junk Shinko on was the only variable. In one week, I put 500 miles on and changed it out. The replacement Shinko was better, but I had vibrations at 40-45 and 65-75. The company, like the loyalists here did not want admit their cheap tire was the problem. So I stuck it out until it hit about 4000 miles and it got as bad as the first one. I ended up going with a Dunlop and the problem went completely away. No shimmy, no vibration, no death wobble.

Stick with advice you already got. Make sure your rim and wheel bearings are good. If everything checks out....get away from those cheap garbage tires. This is my experience with tires and I have a thread on it with a couple pics of my shinko with separation in the tread.

 

[Ukemax]

I had a bad front end wobble on my 2009. In the end, it was garbage tires. Like you, I ran Shinkos because everyone said they were the ****. The first one I put on, the bike was downright dangerous. The second one, the wobble was lots less, but still there. First tire, I put maybe 500 on it. Second tire maybe 4000. I am now running mismatched tires. Dunlop up front, Shinko in the back.

Now, because it doesnt seem like too many folks really ride as much as I do....from what I have been able to gather....this bike will trash front tires faster than it will eat rears if you actually ride the bike. The racers and burn out folks will give you differing opinions on that assessment. I have put 20K on my bike in 2 years. Mostly highway riding. Yes....I will punch it off the line where appropriate. But I can maintain speed of 80-100mph with no issues cause of my highway system in my locale.

I ran Metzlers when I first got the bike. Back tire wore fine. The front wore into a "W" pattern. Then I decided to heed advice here and go for Shinko. Shinko tires were basically unrideable. The loyalty here to these tires were the reason I did not bring up the issue. Putting that junk Shinko on was the only variable. In one week, I put 500 miles on and changed it out. The replacement Shinko was better, but I had vibrations at 40-45 and 65-75. The company, like the loyalists here did not want admit their cheap tire was the problem. So I stuck it out until it hit about 4000 miles and it got as bad as the first one. I ended up going with a Dunlop and the problem went completely away. No shimmy, no vibration, no death wobble.

Stick with advice you already got. Make sure your rim and wheel bearings are good. If everything checks out....get away from those cheap garbage tires. This is my experience with tires and I have a thread on it with a couple pics of my shinko with separation in the tread.

Thanks,

I had good luck with my first pair except for the bubble on the front. I'm still going to check out the bearings, but I may try a Dunlop up front.

Which Dunlop do you run ?

 

[norman66]

Looking for any tips on where to start...

2010, Gen II with 41k on it. Just before I put it away a month and a half ago. Before I put it away I could feel a wobble, really slight if I took my hands of the bars between 45-55 MPH. Inspected the front tire (Shinkp Verge) and found a bubble on the tread. Replaced both front and rear ties (New Shinkos) and also replaced the rear shock.
Wobble became worse at the same speed (had the tire rebalanced). The only way to partially mitigate the wobble was to run the front tire PSI at 42. Since It's down for the summer I was thinking may be a good time to replace the head and swing arm bearings. Or do I go back th the Battleaxe's. This is my second pair of Shinko's, no issues with the first pair.

Hi was reading your problem ,and thought you might get rid of it by doing what I did, first drain the fork oil and check the springs,then put heavie oil in I used MOTUL FORK OIL20 HEAVY then I removed the back shocks and put ikon,used to be koni but an austrailian company bought them over so Koni became ikon shocks my son took the bike out and he told me the bike was great the handling on coners and straight line solid,I also put power commander front and back,yes I know it expensive but we'll worth the extra. Hope you get your problem fixed,have you ever dropped you bike! Also my bike had a sterring damper which I removed .hope this helps you, cheers from BONNY scotland pissing of rain for weeks .

 

[one2dmax]

Thanks Sean, I have front and rear stands but no way to jack the bike up from the middle so I just tried pulling on the front forks, nothing moved but I'm sure that's not going to tell me anything unless they were ridculosly loose.

You only need to lift the front and it can be done with a floor jack or ATV jack. The pipes are solid and can hold the weight of the bike without damage (I would not run the bike with it jacked up on them though lol).

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

Thanks,

I had good luck with my first pair except for the bubble on the front. I'm still going to check out the bearings, but I may try a Dunlop up front.

Which Dunlop do you run ?

The bike is put up away for the year. I dont recall which Dunlop I put on.

As stated...you can lift the bike up by the exhaust. This is what I did when I changed my tire. Mind the balance if you do it this way. Shes a heavy bike to right back up.

 

[Ukemax]

You only need to lift the front and it can be done with a floor jack or ATV jack. The pipes are solid and can hold the weight of the bike without damage (I would not run the bike with it jacked up on them though lol).

I'm running a full Hindle which you sold me, I don't think they're as sturdy as the factory headers (lol)...

 

[Ukemax]

The bike is put up away for the year. I dont recall which Dunlop I put on.

As stated...you can lift the bike up by the exhaust. This is what I did when I changed my tire. Mind the balance if you do it this way. Shes a heavy bike to right back up.

Thanks, I check the Dunlop site to see what they have for the front.

 

[Ukemax]

Hi was reading your problem ,and thought you might get rid of it by doing what I did, first drain the fork oil and check the springs,then put heavie oil in I used MOTUL FORK OIL20 HEAVY then I removed the back shocks and put ikon,used to be koni but an austrailian company bought them over so Koni became ikon shocks my son took the bike out and he told me the bike was great the handling on coners and straight line solid,I also put power commander front and back,yes I know it expensive but we'll worth the extra. Hope you get your problem fixed,have you ever dropped you bike! Also my bike had a sterring damper which I removed .hope this helps you, cheers from BONNY scotland pissing of rain for weeks .

Thanks, I may check into that...

 

[Stevo1911]

May want to try the steering check, the nuts on the fork bolt, mine did something similar. Get front end up see if it drops to side, i think it was in manual or on this forum.

 

[Stephan]

Thanks, I may check into that...

Sounds like loose head bearings to me as well...

 

[Fire-medic]

You only need to lift the front and it can be done with a floor jack or ATV jack. The pipes are solid and can hold the weight of the bike without damage (I would not run the bike with it jacked up on them though lol).

Sean's fix for a Gen. 1, the principle is the same for a Gen. 2.

 

[Ukemax]

Thanks guys, any tips for jacking up a Gen 2 from the center ?
I have the full Hindle which is really thin, is it safe to use an ATV lift on the oil pan ?

Thanks

 

[Fire-medic]

On the Gen. 1's, I've seen guys use the case guards as a jacking point.

Not owning a Gen. 2, I don't know what is best. Don't they have a centerstand? On the Gen. 1, to change a front tire, I usually just position a block of wood to bear on the front of the engine, and just rock-back the front end, until the rear wheel is on the ground. That's 4 points of contact: the centerstand, the front jack, and the rear wheel/tire.

You could make a wood saddle for multiple points of contact at the front of the bike, and lift it underneath the saddle.

 

[Ukemax]

No centerstand on Gen 2's, looks Like I need to use an ATV lift or something similar.

 

[Woody]

Try using 2 jack stands.place them under the foot peg mount.as close to the frame as possible. I put 1 under the side opposite the side stand.then pivot the bike onto that stand. While positioning the 2nd stand in place.you might need a second person to push down on the rear.to elevate the front wheel.
Where there's a will. There's a way.

 

[one2dmax]

A gen 2 should not have the same issues but if the steering is too lose it can of course have it. They are more complicated to jack up for sure.

 

[Ukemax]

Problem solved....Put on a Battle Ax up front and finally got a nice day to test it. Smooth as can be. Really disappointed in the Shinko. I had one set before with no problem, but I'm sort of shocked that a new tire would be that bad. I know some people have had mutiple sets with no issues.