front fork overfill ?

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carnut108

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I just bought a 2005 Vmax. The guy I bought it from said he had just replaced leaking front fork seals. When I road it home I was surprised how stiff it road. I watched the front forks and they did not compress at all over bumps. It has progressive springs but even they should compress, right ?

I checked the air in the shocks, 15 # in one, 0# in the left one. Let out all the air in the right one. Fork oil started leaking out of the air fill valve. I think this guy filled the forks completely to the top with fork oil.

How do I drain some of the oil out without taking the forks off and poring it out. From what I have read, the oil level should start about 4 " down the tube.

thanks, Patrick
 
I don't use ANY air in my Forks with my Progressive Springs and the Fork Oil should be about 5.5" down from the top (15.3 Oz per fork as stated in the Service Manual) with the forks compressed and no Springs in it.
To drain them you can either remove them from the Bike and drain then from the Top
or
Leave them on the bike and remove the Bottom Bolt and drain them from the Bottom

These videos by Sean Morley should help you:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWjsB0eHcFo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKKdbwMQ5fY
 
Don't quite know what you mean by bottom bolt. Watched the video, thanks, but it looks like the oil did not come out until a long alan wrench was used after much disassembly ( tire, brakes, top cap and snap ring. Is there just a drain bolt that is easy access ?
 
You can also use a suction device like a Mity vac to remove the oil like Sean does in the video to get the correct level. Your going to have to remove the wheel and fender to get the forks to collapse fully so you can set the correct fork oil level.


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk w/ vboost!
 
I agree Brian, it's really simple job to pull the Front wheel and remove the Forks on our Bikes.
 
It's not simple for me, I have no center stand due to custom exhaust. From the video, I do not understand why I could not remove the top cap and air fill port and then push down on the handlebars and let the oil just run out the top, then syphone the rest to 4.8 '' down with the fork compressed. What does the tire removal have to do with draining ?
 
The Fork needs to be Level and Fully compressed to measure the Oil level accurately.

You could easily rig up some sort of Jack Stands under the front of the Frame (or Engine Guards if you have them)
or use a Bike Lift or a Jack (with a 2x6 or 2x8) to hold the Bike up while you remove the Front wheel.
I actually borrowed my Neighbors Bike Lift to do mine.

Your Forks were already done half-assed once, do you really want to half-*** do them again ?
 

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It's not simple for me, I have no center stand due to custom exhaust. From the video, I do not understand why I could not remove the top cap and air fill port and then push down on the handlebars and let the oil just run out the top, then syphone the rest to 4.8 '' down with the fork compressed. What does the tire removal have to do with draining ?

You might want to do some forum searching and check out diagrams and photos of what your going to be dealng with.

This is a good place to start..... http://www.besit.ru/vmax/HSRM/chap06.pdf
 
It's not simple for me, I have no center stand due to custom exhaust. From the video, I do not understand why I could not remove the top cap and air fill port and then push down on the handlebars and let the oil just run out the top, then syphone the rest to 4.8 '' down with the fork compressed. What does the tire removal have to do with draining ?

Don't remove both fork caps at the same time if the bike is not jacked up off the ground!
 
I looked at that lift at HF, might buy it. the headers are so close to the frame rails I don't know if it will work.
 
I looked at that lift at HF, might buy it. the headers are so close to the frame rails I don't know if it will work.
That HF lift is just like the one I used in the Picture in this Post:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=309525&postcount=8

I put it right under my Stock Pipes and they held up just fine.
I don't know what exhaust system you have but a lot of guys use that style lift with Kerkers/UFOs/Marks etc. and they work well.
 
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You can use a common floor jack. Use short blocks of wood as cribbing to space away from the pipes, then a long one under them (like an up-side down bridge). Not as stable as a motorcycle lift, but works fine.
 
I just bought a 2005 Vmax. The guy I bought it from said he had just replaced leaking front fork seals. When I road it home I was surprised how stiff it road. I watched the front forks and they did not compress at all over bumps. It has progressive springs but even they should compress, right ?

I checked the air in the shocks, 15 # in one, 0# in the left one. Let out all the air in the right one. Fork oil started leaking out of the air fill valve. I think this guy filled the forks completely to the top with fork oil.

How do I drain some of the oil out without taking the forks off and poring it out. From what I have read, the oil level should start about 4 " down the tube.

thanks, Patrick

I would doubt the oil or air is the issue. Was the guy who sold it kind of a big guy? He might have gone with seriously strong springs which were fine for his big ol' self but maybe not so good for you.

At 220lbs and a preferred forward riding position I opted for 1.0kg weight springs from race tech. For me the ride is a bit stiff but niiiiiicely planted in the corners. If I were a mere 150lbs I would imagine this suspension setup would barely compress and suck.

So before going through and getting the jack you may want to just keep the forks in the tree and pop the top then measure. The dudes that said they need to be straight up and down for an accurate read are correct, but the difference between correct level and way overfull are more than the 10-20mm a slanted fork will be off.

If the oil were to the brim I'd guess it would be blowing by seals and bushings well before stopping a 600lb bike + rider from compressing. It likely has aftermarket springs in it, and those springs are likely too strong for whatever your weight is. Eventually you'll need the jack to fix that anyway though.

:edit:
Depending on what springs and tech are in it the recommended oil level for stock springs is likely different as well. Keep that in mind when you take your measurement.
 
I put it right under my Stock Pipes and they help up just fine.
I don't know what exhaust system you have but a lot of guys use that style lift with Kerkers/UFOs/Marks etc. and they work well.

There are strips of rubber on the top of the lift...so its not like just metal up against the pipes and headers. I have stock headers with slip-ons.
 
There are strips of rubber on the top of the lift...so its not like just metal up against the pipes and headers. I have stock headers with slip-ons.
Exactly, the one I used does too.
PS
I have Supertrapp slip-ons but the lift goes under my Stock Pipes and works perfectly.
 
Here is the kind of lift you need. Hard to see the attachments to the lift that are completely adjustable up/down/side to side with rubber covered V shaped "cups" that frame rails fit into. Many of the lift manufacturers have these kits as an option. Try getting touch with the manufacturer to see if they are available. Larin is the brand name on mine but I think they are all made by the same Chinese company, just renamed by the distributor. One of my friends saw mine and ordered the kit for his lift.

Bought mine at Sam's Club with the kit in the box many years ago.
 

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What I ended up using a few times I used those style jacks but had it from back on the rear tire then raised front with jack stands under the engine crash bars and lifted the rear tire up.....bike super stable and high enough to work on then front end and do a pcw clutch plate mod on it..... I have a pic but not with me, worked like a charm....
 
What I ended up using a few times I used those style jacks but had it from back on the rear tire then raised front with jack stands under the engine crash bars and lifted the rear tire up.....bike super stable and high enough to work on then front end and do a pcw clutch plate mod on it..... I have a pic but not with me, worked like a charm....

I got a pic but it tells a slightly different story!! :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:
 

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