Front forks rough - how much spacer is normal?

[jasncab]

Hi everyone. Redid my front forks. Followed the Clymer and Sean's videos as far as fluid.

'85 stock forks.

1. Are the stock springs tapered at the top? (they look like a progressive spring would. Is that stock)?

2. How much spacer sticks out from top? Unloaded how much spacer is out at the top before you plug the fork? Mine has 2.5" This means to reassembly I have to compress the spring a lot. Seems weird.

They seem REALLY stiff.

No air was added.
ATF Fluid euro synth.


3. Can I lower the front just by cutting that spacer or getting a shorter one?

4. Removing some fluid seems like it would soften the ride? Thoughts?

It bangs over anything more than a simple bump.
I am 6'2" and 200# if that matters.

 

[sdt354]

The springs, I like the taper at the top, but have heard they can go in either way. 2 1/2" is a lot of preload and most likely the cause of the stiff ride. 1" is more in the ballpark. static sag should be set up for your weight, front and back. Cutting the spacers is done for preload adjustment. Lowering the height is done internally. There are threads here or on the Progressive site explaining more in detail. You can play with fluid height a little as long as it's in spec for your bike and measured correctly. The stock springs are progressively wound and look the same as Progressive brand springs, but they are different in length and tension.

 

[jasncab]

Thank you. Ill recheck the fluid and look again at the preload.

 

[[email protected]]

Steve gave you good advice.

Spacer length is different for everyone. Id say around 1.5" above the tubes is a decent starting point. Check sag to get it just right. 2.5 seems like a lot of preload to me. Weve also seen some guys measure fluid level with the fork extended instead of compressed. That will make it VERY stiff too.

To lower the forks you have to put a spacer, or spring, on the damper rod. Progressive sells a fork spring & lowering kit. In addition to the fork springs, it also comes with 4 short springs. Install 1 on each damper rod and you lower your forks 1". Install 2 in each for a 2" drop. Or, make your own spacer from PVC pipe. This needs done while the forks are fully disassembled. I believe there are instructions in the suspension forum.



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[MaxMidnight]

Agree with previous comments and that the amount of sag (i.e. controlled by spacer length) depends on your weight and the sort of feel you want from the front end.
Aim for around 30 mm as an average but if you like it stiffer or softer you can add or subtract 5 mm or so.

How to check the sag here

 

[caseyjones955]

Going from memory I had my spacer set to around an inch. I like a ride that borders on softer without being sloppy. I used the same video and fluid you are and my results were great. I had problems with it bottoming out, harsh ride and nervious handling regardless of PSI before. With the Progressives I have never added air and it has never bottomed out, or felt like it was loosing its composure. It rides and handles pretty decent now. As it turns out my 20-ish year old springs had simply gone past their prime, seems they are not a forever item. I could not seem to dial in proper ride and handling until I slipped new ones in.

 

[MaxMidnight]

...had simply gone past their prime, seems they are not a forever item.

An alternative less charitable view would be that they were rubbish to start with?

 

[caseyjones955]

An alternative less charitable view would be that they were rubbish to start with?

It is less charitable, but empirical observation strongly supports that. Progressives (and of course other spendier aft mkt options) are superior to even new OEM springs. Put 20-30 years on those factory springs and we get pretty much exactly what the OP is describing. Around $100 shipped for a set of progressives is a lot of improvement for a small price. Hashed out OEM springs range from abrupt to flat out terrifying. IMHO a decent set of springs and properly serviced/adjusted head bearings can transform a bike's handling and ride dramatically.

 

[rebeltaz83]

It is less charitable, but empirical observation strongly supports that. Progressives (and of course other spendier aft mkt options) are superior to even new OEM springs. Put 20-30 years on those factory springs and we get pretty much exactly what the OP is describing. Around $100 shipped for a set of progressives is a lot of improvement for a small price. Hashed out OEM springs range from abrupt to flat out terrifying. IMHO a decent set of springs and properly serviced/adjusted head bearings can transform a bike's handling and ride dramatically.

+1 about 3 years ago I changed my seals, and used full synthetic ATF. And last year I changed my head bearings, and installed progressive springs. Night and day difference. Didn't wobble as much in the corners, and bumps that used to jar your body, not so much anymore. You'll be looking for rear progressives after you install the fronts.

 

[Poolio]

I really should have read this. I did the progressive swap and thought I cut my spacers right. I have under an 1” of travel under any condition. Bumps make it goo and coming down from wheelies is beyond interesting. I’ll be checking how much sticks out tomorrow

 

[sdt354]

I really should have read this. I did the progressive swap and thought I cut my spacers right. I have under an 1” of travel under any condition. Bumps make it goo and coming down from wheelies is beyond interesting. I’ll be checking how much sticks out tomorrow

You'll be wanting more preload Poolie. Adding a little more for harsh landings from wheelies. They are tough on fork internals. I prefer burnouts for that reason.

 

[Bill Seward]

I put progressive springs, All Balls head bearings, and a set of Progressive rear shocks (thanks, Kyle!) on Zilla. Along with the Shinko tires, it made a world of difference in ride and handling.

Money well spent.

 

[Redbone]

Sean Morley has adjustable fork caps that let you tune the fork spring tension once you have the spacer length close, easier to install as well!


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