Front wheel canted slightly?

[ColoNat]

what is the most likely cause? tweaked fork or issue with the fork brace? causes a tiny cant in handlebar when riding.
new to me 2001 and just getting ready to dive in to a few minor issues needing correction before I ride it.
looking for suggestions, tia!

 

[blaxmax]

what is the most likely cause? tweaked fork or issue with the fork brace? causes a tiny cant in handlebar when riding.
new to me 2001 and just getting ready to dive in to a few minor issues needing correction before I ride it.
looking for suggestions, tia!

Looks like the fender. Maybe a straight shot would work better.

 

[Damon]

'2001 was the first year with stone guards on the fork legs. Maybe your forks are from an earlier model? (1993~2000)

 

[Miles Long]

'2001 was the first year with stone guards on the fork legs. Maybe your forks are from an earlier model? (1993~2000)

Sharp eyes, Damon.
I'm thinking......hate to though.......front end collision, and repair.
Maybe the trees are out of align, causing the handlebar cant?
Good opportunity for someone knowledgeable about front end alignment to post the procedure(s). Maybe even a potential "Sticky"?
Cheers!

 

[Specs95t]

My 2001 has the stone guards on the forks.

To ensure proper fit/alignment of forks, I would recommend getting the bike up on center stand and getting someone to sit on the back to get the front wheel and forks up.

Then loosen upper and lower triple trees and fork brace.

Loosen and retorque the bolt holding the front wheel in place and then work your way up the forks, torquing down the fork brace, then lower triple trees and then upper trees.

Two things to check when done:
1: the spacing on the top fork tubes should be the same as measured from the top triple tree

2: the bolt holding the front wheel should unscrew and remain aligned with the threaded fork hole on the other side (with front wheel removed).

Whoever is sitting on the back of the bike will also need a beer or two while you are doing all of this.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blaxmax]

sharp eyes, damon.
I'm thinking......hate to though.......front end collision, and repair.
Maybe the trees are out of align, causing the handlebar cant?
Good opportunity for someone knowledgeable about front end alignment to post the procedure(s). Maybe even a potential "sticky"?
Cheers!

+1

 

[Fire-medic]

If the front end has been replaced, as has been mentioned, perhaps an indifferent method of replacement. Follow the directions for re-torquing and aligning the front end.

You should take a look at the fork stops, to see if they took a blow.

 

[ColoNat]

Thanks for the detailed procedure! hopefully this takes care of it :clapping:

My 2001 has the stone guards on the forks.

To ensure proper fit/alignment of forks, I would recommend getting the bike up on center stand and getting someone to sit on the back to get the front wheel and forks up.

Then loosen upper and lower triple trees and fork brace.

Loosen and retorque the bolt holding the front wheel in place and then work your way up the forks, torquing down the fork brace, then lower triple trees and then upper trees.

Two things to check when done:
1: the spacing on the top fork tubes should be the same as measured from the top triple tree

2: the bolt holding the front wheel should unscrew and remain aligned with the threaded fork hole on the other side (with front wheel removed).

Whoever is sitting on the back of the bike will also need a beer or two while you are doing all of this.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ColoNat]

Sharp eyes, Damon.
I'm thinking......hate to though.......front end collision, and repair.
Maybe the trees are out of align, causing the handlebar cant?
Good opportunity for someone knowledgeable about front end alignment to post the procedure(s). Maybe even a potential "Sticky"?
Cheers!

I'm thinking both of you are correct on the changed front end. I noticed the incorrect fender right away, so assumed it had hit something, then with the tweak figured maybe one tube was slightly bent or not aligned correctly, as per the other procedure provided, but in looking deeper, i think it's a repair with the incorrect year of tube (due to no stone guards) and not the best repair being done. good eyes on the stone guards!:git:

 

[ColoNat]

torque procedure did not fix alignment. wheel and handlebars will not line up. also, keeping axle in, fork brace is hard to align and thread bolts into. are the lower fork sections forged? if so, I assume they can twist. if cast I would think they'd crack first, but to the eye they look fine. I just know the bolt holes don't line up correctly. also still have the steering misalignment. seems like two separate issues. have to think the triples are tweaked. any expert advice? :ummm:

 

[one2dmax]

I have had this one time with a bent steering stem. The bike had been crashed and I don't remember how badly. I've seen them go end over end and not tweak the triple.

 

[sdt354]

I'm thinking bent tube. Remove, fender, brace, bars, wheel and anything else in the way. Loosen up the clamping bolts and see if you can slide the tubes all the way up into the trees, without binding. Take an accurate measurement of the fork tubes between the trees, with clamping bolts tightened to spec. Measure just above the seal area and compare. Rotate the tubes and remeasure. I think you'll see a tweaked tube when you rotate them.
Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

I have had this one time with a bent steering stem. The bike had been crashed and I don't remember how badly. I've seen them go end over end and not tweak the triple.

I was surprised to find the stems hollow. Weight saving would be my guess why. Still
strong though. I'd think the early Gen 1 fork tubes would bend easy, in a minor collision.

 

[one2dmax]

Hollow is stronger actually then a solid bar. Energy has to travel around or to a point where it can go straight through in order to bend. That's why rebar is reasonably easy to bend vs a similar section of thick wall tubing.

 

[Dorney]

I'm thinking bent tube. Remove, fender, brace, bars, wheel and anything else in the way. Loosen up the clamping bolts and see if you can slide the tubes all the way up into the trees, without binding. Take an accurate measurement of the fork tubes between the trees, with clamping bolts tightened to spec. Measure just above the seal area and compare. Rotate the tubes and remeasure. I think you'll see a tweaked tube when you rotate them.
Steve-o

+ 1 I'm with you Steve.

 

[sdt354]

Hollow is stronger actually then a solid bar. Energy has to travel around or to a point where it can go straight through in order to bend. That's why rebar is reasonably easy to bend vs a similar section of thick wall tubing.

Tks much.