Fuel from needle jet at idle? WTH????

[great white]

Rode the bike to work this morning.

Warmed up normally with a little choke, rode well with good throttle response and no lean pops.

Little bit of chugging from 1000 rpm in second gear with throttle, but it did that before and i was able to clean it up with a little fuel screw fine tuning. Right now they're at an intial 2 1/2 turns out as a starting point.

I'm cautiously optimistic.....

 

[caseyjones955]

When I changed my float levels I had to back mine out about another half turn to get that crisp snappy eagerness back but thats as far as I got before I had to go to work. Im still amazed at what a little jetting and tweaking can accomplish. When I get home next week imma finish needle adj, sync her up and ride to MT for a few days.

Im glad you at least got past the flooding issue,

 

[great white]

Well, its snarfing a little bit now and then from the carbs. Acting like its lean. But its 1/4 throttle and under when it does it. Mostly on steady cruise or the occational throttle chop aftr light throttle.

Idle screws need some tweaking....

 

[caseyjones955]

Yup, in my experience working them out 1/4 turn at a time I can get rid of the off idle softness and queefing. I didnt know much about the v4 last year but have picked up quite a bit here. Ive had to go through this after some changes and turn them in after others. Ive just gotten to where I start at 2.5 and work em' from there and once its about right I give the rears another 1/4 - 1/2 out depending on how she feels. Its just got a snappy rock solid idle and a special sound and feel off idle when the synch and screws are just right. I love that moment when she tells me shes happy.

 

[great white]

Gave it a tweak before leaving work. Carb cough is gone, but it barked in the pipe once or twice on the way home. So one has gone a touch rich.

Once it cools down, I'll pull the plugs and see which one shows touch rich and back it down an 1/8th.

I may have a look at the wet float levels too, just to see what it looks like.

Then it's WOT chops and midrange work to get it all in working order.

 

[great white]

Well, ran well this morning and i thought i just about had it licked when it laid down and started backfiring badly.

Pulled off to the side and it died.

Hit the starter and nothing.

First thought was; jeebus crisp I seized the damn thing!

Then i looked up at the voltmeter. 8 volts.

Aha! Wife comes out and gives me a jump and it dies twice more on the way home.

I was thinking everything from alternator to rr to battery.

Got it home and discovered i had missed hooking up the rr charge wire to the battery.

My battery has also always been weak. So i grabbed a new agm to chuck in the thing.

Back to plug checks tomorrow...

 

[caseyjones955]

That had to be disheartening, at least it turns out to be a minor setback.

 

[sdt354]

Weak electrical system, weak spark. I'd check the charging voltage first now that the battery issue is addressed.

 

[great white]

Weak electrical system, weak spark. I'd check the charging voltage first now that the battery issue is addressed.

Good suggestion, but it's all good.

I'm running a SH775BA series regulator and the output is rock solid when running. Even at idle its in the 14 V range. Converting to the series reg was one of the better changes to the bike.

I'm running a cop conversion and an ignitech also.

It was my mistake of not hooking up the charging wire that caused the electrical issue.

Battery was changed pretty much just because. The old one spec's out fine, bit its a couple years old and it just dropped down more than I was comfortable with on starts. This bike is my main transportation right now (truck needs exhaust work and a water pump, fj1200 hurts my old back too much after 15-20 mins) so I don't have an issue with spending 150 for a new battery and peace of mind in that Dept.

 

[blaxmax]

Good suggestion, but it's all good.

I'm running a SH775BA series regulator and the output is rock solid when running. Even at idle its in the 14 V range. Converting to the series reg was one of the better changes to the bike.

I'm running a cop conversion and an ignitech also.

It was my mistake of not hooking up the charging wire that caused the electrical issue.

Battery was changed pretty much just because. The old one spec's out fine, bit its a couple years old and it just dropped down more than I was comfortable with on starts. This bike is my main transportation right now (truck needs exhaust work and a water pump, fj1200 hurts my old back too much after 15-20 mins) so I don't have an issue with spending 150 for a new battery and peace of mind in that Dept.

http://www.apexbattery.com/ub1220-12v-22ah-battery.html

 

[great white]

So, more weird behavior today.

Rode it to work and back home at lunch.

Never more than 1/4 throttle application (I have it marked with tape).

Pul the plugs and rh cylinders show a bit rich, LH bank shows lean. Kinda fits as I would hear the occasional burp/fart from the LH side.

Easy peasy I think. 1/4-1/8 turn in on the Right and same out on the left and check it after the same ride home at the end of the day.

Well, I don't even get halfway up my street and it's obvious it's really F'd up. Turn around and head back to the house, stash it in the garage, grab the FJ1200 and head to work.

I go over it n my head a bunch of times and I went the right way on the carbs. This isn't making any sense.

When i get home, I give it a good looking over and guess what?

Those cracks in my carb holders seem to be a bit wider. I had tested them with the spray trick and it made no difference. I also gave 'em a good looking over when the carbs were out and they were only surface cracks.

Then I see a couple of the cracks have opened up to show the carb bodies above the clamps.

Well, if that's not my weird tuning issue it's sure not helping any.

Good thing is my new boots just showed up yesterday So I can pull the carbs tonight and then reset the ideal mixture screws to 2.5 turns and see what I get.

Might be a slight delay though. Into the blue with jessica alba just came on and she's swimming around all over the place in those skimpy outfits!

 

[great white]

This mother trucker is driving me nuts! Ive had hard to dial in bikes before, but this is a new level of pita!

Tried to ride to work this morning and lean chug all over the place.

Got to 3 turns out and could only minimize it. Tried turning them in just in case the bike was faking me out with rich/lean and only got worse. Queefing in the exhaust now, no carb burps. Still bad enough to keep me from riding it.

Got back home to fire up the fj1200 and quicky checked wet level on carb 4 before i left.

Bouncing level from the engine heat but showing roughly 25-26 mm!

Cant figure it, but im thinking somehow the new carb holders are now making it respond as it normally would to adjustments.

So tonight, after a sore back ride home on the fj, i'll yank the carbs again and bench set wet levels to 16-17 mm and hope for the best.

Im rapidly approaching burn the f-er to the ground levels of frustration with this thing...

 

[jfeagins]

Coasting enrichener diaphragms in good, working order? Airbox rubbers firmly seated down onto all four carbs? Issues in both those areas could cause chuffing through the carbs. .........just throwing two more areas of thought out there.

Also, I think you're putting way too much emphasis on those A/F screw adjustments. IMO, they don't really do much other than make a smooth transition from idle speed to partial throttle anyway. If you have them too far in, throttle response OFF IDLE will suffer......too far out, throttle response OFF IDLE will suffer as well. Sweet spot in the middle, and you transition normally. Expecting those screws to greatly affect your mid-range, cruising speed, IMO, is going to make you flusterpated all day long.

 

[Traumahawk]

You do know that the A/F screws cover 0-4000 rpm @ 0-1/8th.....maybe 1/4 of the throttle? After that.....you operating on different circuits.

 

[blaxmax]

You also mentioned that you built your own set of cops and your vboost was not kicking in when it used to.
If you used the wrong coil on plugs with improper ohms your Vboost will open late or not even open at all.Also if the wiring in the harnesses are not in correct order + and - your ecu box is going to burn out also in the meantime it would confuse the fire.

 

[Traumahawk]

You also mentioned that you built your own set of cops and your vboost was not kicking in when it used to.
If you used the wrong coil on plugs with improper ohms your Vboost will open late or not even open at all.Also if the wiring in the harnesses are not in correct order + and - your ecu box is going to burn out also in the meantime it would confuse the fire.

There are some cops that will open the Vboost LATE.....but thats it, and people arent certain why. The only ECU that has had problems with Unresistored COPS is the dynatek units. There is a + and -. I dont know what Blax means about confusing the fire.

 

[blaxmax]

There are some cops that will open the Vboost LATE.....but thats it, and people arent certain why. The only ECU that has had problems with Unresistored COPS is the dynatek units. There is a + and -. I dont know what Blax means about confusing the fire.

Didn't you say you wouldn't be able to sleep not knowing if your + was connected to the - side of the coil?

 

[Traumahawk]

Didn't you say you wouldn't be able to sleep not knowing if your + was connected to the - side of the coil?

How does this pertain to you saying the fire gets confused?:confused2:

Can you please post a link to where I said that?

EDIT**** You might be thinking of this thread.....where I said that there is always a right way, and a wrong way how to do something.....http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=425685&postcount=55

 

[blaxmax]

It's not that hard to figure out-If you accidentally connect the positive side of the coil to the negative wire and run that way what do you get?

Traumahawk's Avatar
Traumahawk is
Senior Member


Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 6,120
My VMax: 2007 Black
My other bikes: 86 Vmax, 89 frame, 85 frame,
Awards Showcase
Award of Posting Excellence (APE) Nice guy award
Total Awards: 2
Default Re: Resistored COPS vs unresistored COPS
I think resistors were added to the COPS wires for the early analog TCI's and for the Dyna 3000's. There were some failures if I remember right, and the un resistor COPS wires were letting too much current thru for the units.
Traumahawk's Avatar
Traumahawk is
Senior Member


Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 6,120
My VMax: 2007 Black
My other bikes: 86 Vmax, 89 frame, 85 frame,
Awards Showcase
Award of Posting Excellence (APE) Nice guy award
Total Awards: 2
Default Re: Vmax Cops
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannymax View Post
+1 usually the (+) side is the orange wire (or orange with white stripe)

There's a little more COP info in this thread: http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?...=birdoprey's
Thanks for the info Danny. Some people have said in the past that it doesnt matter which side of the COPS go to which wire, others have said that it does. I'm one of those people that it does matter to. To me, if it doesn't matter, then why is there a positive, and a negative side of the coil? I also believe that there maybe be several ways that something works ok, but there is still the best solution.

I have always been a

 

[blaxmax]

The reason they open the vboost late is the ohms are to low. Resistance