Ganna need some advice here...forks

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GREEN light BLITZ

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So my V-Max is a 1985, I removed the cross tube and collars from the forks. It now as you probably guessed, rides like a soft terd. It's soft...too soft, it bottoms out leaving my driveway.So the question is what do I need to do to make the front end nice and tight? I know I need new springs but what should I buy? What do you suggest? How hard is the rebuild? Thanks in advance!
 
Have you not seen my videos on how to take apart and assemble the front end. I had my then 12 year old daughter do it just to show you it's not hard. You may need to run thicker oil, increase the preload (sounds like preload is wrong), and get new progressive springs (I may even have a used set on hand though I sell them new for not too bad a price).

The seals for your older forks cost more then springs do almost.

Sean
 
Ironically I need seals too! I figured I would accumulate the parts and do it all in one shot. I like running my Max in the twisties,so this current set up is NOT working for me! I haven't seen the video YET but I recalled hearing about it and being told it was a walk in the park. I didn't realise the preload alone would allow it to bottom out so much, I guess I need to bust out my manual and see how to adjust it! Please PM me if you have a set of progressives to sell, I want this handling it's best.
 
go progressives. and then weld ur holes shut!
 
Personally, knowing how YOU ride your bike and with whom you ride it, I'd recommend the Race-Tech springs. The straight wound (non progressive) will yield you better results for YOUR type of riding.

Emulators are also a HUGE improvement.

Chris
 
+2 RaceTech springs plus emulators. The RaceTechs also come in different spring rates, depending on your weight. 15wt oil works well for me. Some people like 10 wt.
 
+2 RaceTech springs plus emulators. The RaceTechs also come in different spring rates, depending on your weight. 15wt oil works well for me. Some people like 10 wt.


+ 3 ..... Your weight & riding style will determine which Race Tech kit to get and add the gold emulators with their oil . I was advised to tell them my weight was 15 lbs. less than actual and it worked out great. Also received a 20 % discount when I got mine with VMOA # . :punk:
 
Alright, I trust the advice of my peers...so where do I get them and what's the general damage? As a side note, what's an emulator DO?!

Sorry, suspension is a new page for me so I've got questions.
So far the idea is NON progressive springs(strait), heavy oil weight, and "emulators"?
 
Alright...Read again and answered the where question:race tech. But still not sure what an emulator does, and can I get them from race tech as well?
 
Yes, emulators are bought from Race Tech. They are not cheap. Best bang for the buck is new springs and oil, close the holes in the forks created by removing the crossover. Emulators are just the icing on the cake.
 
Alright...Read again and answered the where question:race tech. But still not sure what an emulator does, and can I get them from race tech as well?

Race Tech 915-279-6655 In '07 I bought the Flek S 3895 fork suspension kit .95 kg with US2 Ultra slick medium fork oil & gold emulators with shipping for $ 236.08 I beleive they gave me 25 % off for the VMOA membership #

I weighed 205 lb. at the time , but told them I weighed 190 lb.

racetech.com for info. regarding the emulators / or better yet , talk to the rep direct on the phone.
 
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Right on guys! I think I'm on my way to nakin this beast handle the way I WANT it to!


just need radials man.... night and day. you could probably brace your swingarm yourself too eh?

too bad windsor (Kosman) isn't right down the road, could save some shipping $$
 
just need radials man.... night and day. you could probably brace your swingarm yourself too eh?

too bad windsor (Kosman) isn't right down the road, could save some shipping $$

How about the 17x6' 3 spoked sport bike rim?
Freshly blasted, ready to paint or polish, with evrything what he needs and even more, for lets say around 500$ plus shipping?

Hope to offer that next week.


And just my 2 cents about the radials.
From personal experience, I can say that rear wheel is more important then front.
I was running with 190/50R17 at the rear and stock Michelin at the front.

Im running with 120/70R17 sport radial at the front now, not much diffence I should say.
The myth about mixing radial and bias.
 
Radial rear and bias front is OK. Just don't do it the other way around. At least that's what I've heard.

I'd think a 5.5" rim would sell better, only because it'll fit into a stock swing arm easier.

Chris
 
How about the 17x6' 3 spoked sport bike rim?
Freshly blasted, ready to paint or polish, with evrything what he needs and even more, for lets say around 500$ plus shipping?

Hope to offer that next week.


And just my 2 cents about the radials.
From personal experience, I can say that rear wheel is more important then front.
I was running with 190/50R17 at the rear and stock Michelin at the front.

Im running with 120/70R17 sport radial at the front now, not much diffence I should say.
The myth about mixing radial and bias.

$500 seems fair to me! hmm well i hate the way the 120 radial looks on the front, woudl love to run the 120/90 bias ply size on the 18" rim.

Radial rear and bias front is OK. Just don't do it the other way around. At least that's what I've heard.

I'd think a 5.5" rim would sell better, only because it'll fit into a stock swing arm easier.

Chris

where did u get info on that?
 
Googled it a long time ago I think. I'm not 100% sure of that, but I think it's correct.

Personally, running radials front and rear would be the only way for me.

Chris
 

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