Garretts random winter questions

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heres the steel plates. i think most are ok except the two. one is 1/2 blue the other is maybe a third. is that still well within spec?
 

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I can do that as well, but was wondering if the bluing meant they needed to be bead blasted?


Check to see if they are warped against factory specs, if not, bead blast and reinstall.

Mike
 
The clutch plates don't look too bad. Mine were very similar when I took them out. I didn't bother taking them to get blasted but I did clean the blue off of them with some scotchbrite and simple green. Then I rinsed them off and coated them lightly with oil.

Not sure if you're doing the DD mod or not but if you want some more clutch power without increasing lever effort you can just buy a new friction disc for about $10 and throw away the retaining wire, the half sized friction, the clutch boss spring and spring seat.
 
The clutch plates don't look too bad. Mine were very similar when I took them out. I didn't bother taking them to get blasted but I did clean the blue off of them with some scotchbrite and simple green. Then I rinsed them off and coated them lightly with oil.

Not sure if you're doing the DD mod or not but if you want some more clutch power without increasing lever effort you can just buy a new friction disc for about $10 and throw away the retaining wire, the half sized friction, the clutch boss spring and spring seat.

thanks i'll just clean them up then.

and yes I"m doing the DD!

EDIT: it seems i have to be very careful installing the retaining clip bolts with the two springs under it. any hints on this? is it just some blue loctite and until their snug? I mean the 8Nm the book recommends is basically snug as it is!
 
thanks i'll just clean them up then.

and yes I"m doing the DD!

EDIT: it seems i have to be very careful installing the retaining clip bolts with the two springs under it. any hints on this? is it just some blue loctite and until their snug? I mean the 8Nm the book recommends is basically snug as it is!

No real trick to installing two springs. Just match up the profiles on both of them and bolt the retaining ring on. I used loctite and set them at 7Nm if I remember correctly.
 
I would consider bead blasting them. When they get hot like that (obvious sign of slipping) then they can glaze over which makes it harder for the new plates to do their job.

Sean
 
yes it can. scotch pads would work.


so i was talking to the coater and he said he's never done clutch plates but would do it for me if i felt comfortable. He thought clutch plates should be smooth, which i think is true, but not glazed correct?

It looks like from what i read online he wants to use low pressure (no more than 50 psi) and some type of sand-esque material.

if its something thats easily messed up maybe i can just take a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper (500 grit sound about right) or even a brass brush on my dremel?

first tho gotta make sure the blued ones aren't warped.
 
Update:

Took of the oil pan and clutch today. O-ring was in place as it should be!:eusa_dance:

I'm thinking of not doing the oiling upgrade, to be honest, as at a certain point i like the 'leave well enough alone' mentality. i'm def going to do the kawi o-ring and new boot on the bottom of the pipe.

The clutch had me stumped until i saw the retaining wire. My plates have a tiny bit of bluing but i think thats normal. i'll take some pics later see what people think on them.

didn't get a chance to clean the oil pan gasket on the engine itself but brought the pan home to clean. found a razor blade and a lot of steady hand/patience the best way to do the clutch gasket cleaning.

Garrett, you can always take your paltes off and get them glass beated.

Also, I use the spray-on gasket remover from O'Reilly's. When the bubbling slows down just wipe off.

Mark
 
Garrett, you can always take your paltes off and get them glass beated.

Also, I use the spray-on gasket remover from O'Reilly's. When the bubbling slows down just wipe off.

Mark

yea i was discussing that with sean and mike above..... is the key you want the plates smooth but not galzed?

never heard of it. i'll have to pick some up. i assume autozone would have it?
 
so i was talking to the coater and he said he's never done clutch plates but would do it for me if i felt comfortable. He thought clutch plates should be smooth, which i think is true, but not glazed correct?

It looks like from what i read online he wants to use low pressure (no more than 50 psi) and some type of sand-esque material.

if its something thats easily messed up maybe i can just take a scotch brite pad or some sandpaper (500 grit sound about right) or even a brass brush on my dremel?

first tho gotta make sure the blued ones aren't warped.

I was told that you want to just put tiger stripes on them. Too aggressive and you'll lose all slip. Remember you DO want some slippage...
 
We do the bead blasting. I just got a new price on this so it's not as expensive now but your coater should have no problem if he's using the plastic beads to clean the parts up prior to coating.
Sean
 
Garrett,
If your going to order a can get one for me and i'll pay for it and split the shipping. Let me know.

i think i'll probably just swing by autozone, i honestly didn't even know that type of stuff existed.

We do the bead blasting. I just got a new price on this so it's not as expensive now but your coater should have no problem if he's using the plastic beads to clean the parts up prior to coating.
Sean

he says he uses coal sag/'fine black beauty'

When you do it, do you do stripes or the full plate? if you do stripes do you remove the glaze on the whole plate?
 

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