was gonna try filling tank w evapo-rust, drain, rinse and fill w gas-without removing tank. has anyone tried this? really trying to avoid the PIA project of removing-again!
getting rust out of gas tank without removing
- Thread starter randu
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I had to much rust in my tank when i bought the bike so i had to pull the tank because the fuel sensor was in parts. I never used evapo-rust, I take it yours is no way bad as mine. I had to put a liner in it but that has been 2 yr. and still ok.
Just checked the manual and the tank has a drain otherwise you'd need to tip the bike upside down, not easy.
There are numerous way to remove the rust, vinegar or citric acid (both acids) and electrolysis using washing soda.
Let's ignore electrolysis as that requires connecting a voltage source and we don't want risk blowing any of the electronic components (actually that may be ok see below).
So in theory filling tank with acid, let it eat away the rust, hopefully there is enough steel left to avoid making any holes, then draining the tank sounds a fine plan. Once the tank has dried out, any debris could by vacuumed away but beware if there are any petrol fumes drawn by the vacuum cleaner that reach the motor, it may well explode, flushing the tank a couple of time should reduce that risk - or using a hose to siphon debris out.
I am not sure how you would coat the inside, I believe it is normally done by swilling the tank about to coat the walls, and be aware that any coating may get into the pickup and block it as well as play havoc with the level sender.
Actually zinc plating is doable - see below - the positive voltage is applied to the zinc metal so the tank and chassis remain at 0V; any electronics on the bike should not see a voltage reversal.
How to Galvanize Metal (for Rust Protection) - Instructables
There are numerous way to remove the rust, vinegar or citric acid (both acids) and electrolysis using washing soda.
Let's ignore electrolysis as that requires connecting a voltage source and we don't want risk blowing any of the electronic components (actually that may be ok see below).
So in theory filling tank with acid, let it eat away the rust, hopefully there is enough steel left to avoid making any holes, then draining the tank sounds a fine plan. Once the tank has dried out, any debris could by vacuumed away but beware if there are any petrol fumes drawn by the vacuum cleaner that reach the motor, it may well explode, flushing the tank a couple of time should reduce that risk - or using a hose to siphon debris out.
I am not sure how you would coat the inside, I believe it is normally done by swilling the tank about to coat the walls, and be aware that any coating may get into the pickup and block it as well as play havoc with the level sender.
Actually zinc plating is doable - see below - the positive voltage is applied to the zinc metal so the tank and chassis remain at 0V; any electronics on the bike should not see a voltage reversal.
How to Galvanize Metal (for Rust Protection) - Instructables
ok cool-thank you.-when you say 'coat the tank'-what is typically swirled around in tank? is it just rubbing alcohol or something?
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MY problem was the bike set for 8 yr. or so with gas in it. I was told by the then owner that it had everything drained from bike and set up for long storage. Long being more than a year. After I got the bike home I found out the fuel system was fubared. I got a 3pc. kit from j&p cycle that had everything to coat the tank. I pulled the tank and used the kit to fix it. Yes it took some time 2 days and patience. Turned out great but I have since saw some new tanks around $300.00. If you got the time and place you can put a new one in or cheaper, repair it. I had no choice but you might. good luck man, and if you need any more info on what I did just let me know. I will help u if I can.
Thank you so much. This forum has been awesome and everyone’s helped me a ton. I’ve decided to go ahead and take her all apart again. If I can get the tank out and fixed and carbs figured out then I should be able to finally ride it!-that’ll just leave the stripped 2nd gear to deal with. That sounds like a major pain. Might have to find someone to pay for that one. Thanks again!
Vinegar is a lot cheaper than evaporust. I have sealed tons of tanks & KBS is my go to product. KBS Tank Sealer System - All-Inclusive Tank Liner Kit (kbs-coatings.com) I have fixed my fare share of 2nd gears to it is a little time consuming .
Yes, I like vinegar, it does a good job, cheaply. Be sure that you get 'cleaning vinegar,' which has a higher % than cooking vinegar. It comes in many different strengths. Be careful about leaving anything besides steel in the solution, or you could lose something like a zinc metal piece which if left immersed, may disappear! In the case of the VMax gas tank, that would be the fuel level sender electrical-resistance switch. Remove it, and install a steel block-off plate, w/a bit of gasket sealant, then fill the tank w/a bit of vinegar to ensure that it seals-well, before filling the gas tank with vinegar.
Here's a set of pics of a rusty faux gas tank cover being vinegar-treated. Quite the difference!
Here's a set of pics of a rusty faux gas tank cover being vinegar-treated. Quite the difference!
thanks!-can you recommend a video or walkthrough for fixing/replacing stripped vmax 2nd gear?
thanks all!-so i forced the fuel filter apart and it was full of rust. can you clean these and re-assemble? do i need to glue it where it goes together?-or should i just buy one? (i ask cause my total investment is climbing and climbing!)
Take your fuel filter to the auto parts store, and you should be able to find a replacement which fits the available space, for about $5-$6. If you do a search on-here, you can get the NAPA or other part #. The Russell metal filter is a good one, as it's cleanable/re-usable. I open my gas filters to see what it caught, once the new one is aboard. Like the ancient priests examining the owl entrails, for foretelling the future, it's helpful in diagnosing issues. If you find rust-dust, or actual rust particles, you know what to expect when you examine the gas tank.
(2) replacement gas filter | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
(2) Fuel filter | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
(2) replacement gas filter | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
(2) Fuel filter | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
I don't know of any videos or walkthrough's unless maybe Sean Morley has one
Denci
Well-Known Member
Im in the same boat, but didn't think i could treat the tank with it still on the bike mostly because of the fuel sender unit might suffer damage.
looks like i will have to remove the tank as well. uhg
looks like i will have to remove the tank as well. uhg
Removing the gas tank is not a big deal, take pictures and document your disassembly as you are doing it. It's like one of those Chinese puzzles using bent nails. As you maneuver the generation 1 Vmax gas tank you can pull it out the side.
A damaged sender switch from leaving it in-place during a chemical cleaning, and the block-off plate you can use to remove the fuel level sender switch. Use a sheet of thin rubber, or a cut piece of gasket material, I've also just given the blank-off plate a thin coat of silicone gasket sealer.
A damaged sender switch from leaving it in-place during a chemical cleaning, and the block-off plate you can use to remove the fuel level sender switch. Use a sheet of thin rubber, or a cut piece of gasket material, I've also just given the blank-off plate a thin coat of silicone gasket sealer.
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If you are going to take the rear end apart, have you considered a new bigger tank?
Denci
Well-Known Member
A larger tank is just not worth the cost as I feel they are grossly over priced. I actually found the whole procedure to be much easier than anticipated.
I got the tank off and prepped for cleaning in a little over an hour. I used 3 gallons of evapo-rust let it set for about 12 hrs.
the tank was spotless by then. putting it back together was even faster and I also cleaned the rear half of the bike really good.
while I had it apart I also routed all the wires and tubing correctly and replaced any that showed age. I didn't coat the tank with anything
since I will be using lucas ethanol stabilizer in it as i do my other bikes that i did the same treatment to. its been 3 years with those bikes and no sign of rust at all.
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It always nice to do it right, have great results, and not have to worry about the problem again.
I don't coat my tanks either- I just keep them full of gas (=no condensation) and make sure I ride them enough to keep the gas relatively fresh.
I don't coat my tanks either- I just keep them full of gas (=no condensation) and make sure I ride them enough to keep the gas relatively fresh.
I'm getting ready to buy a new fuel tank from Partzilla for my 1986. My current tank has some significant rust in it and a new one is only $309 from Partzilla. For OEM Yamaha part I didn't think that was too bad and for the piece of mind well worth it. Thoughts?
