headlight

[cd wallace]

Just to let others know when you use an after market head light some can pull too many amps.
The new headlamp I put on the bike I'm working on after I hooked it up charging fine. The light that came on the bike was an wave headlight so the owner put in a new stater and factory r/r.
Thinking they were bad it was the head light with it on you turned the flasher on the voltage would drop off now with new headlight no drop. So just check the specks when you change things.hope this helps

 

[jfeagins]

You mean someone installed an aftermarket headlight with larger wattage bulb(s) in it? If so, those bulbs should be marked in some fashion. Read on them and post up what wattage was too much. Seems like our OEM bulbs only take 55-60 watts and are h4 style. Maybe they had some of the 65/70w H4's installed? I'd think those would work OK. But if they had 100W H4's, I can see it being too much load.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I run two 100 wart H4's in my Cybermax headlight and am idling at 13.1 and at a solid 13.8-14.2 off idle.

Charging systems is all stock parts on a '99 along with all the usual charging system cures regarding the wiring having been performed.


For the headlight I abandoned all the stock wiring and ran separately fused, new, bigger wiring to the lamps, through a relay that's now controlled by the original wiring.

 

[Redbone]

I run 55/ 100 for the last 2 years with no issues. To note I also run two relays(Eastern Beaver), one each for the low and high circuits. I have the old style R/R, crimp fix, regularly check the grounds and have Pc680 battery.
Once I get my garage built I will go through my electrical system, upgrade to a mofset R/R and upgrade the wires as needed. I'm thinking about Sean's permanent fix on the stator (Venture setup I believe) but need to investigate that some more.

 

[cd wallace]

Ok it takes 65/65 off road halogen bulbs its that wave light. Was not a 4h . All I know is made a big changes in charging and now I know why the key switch plugs were burnt melted to the point it would not shut off.
Wile I was working on it I did the R/R upgrade. My volt gauge is hooked into the main feed into fuze box.
Sence that's the most draw and keyed source.

 

[Sonoran6]

so if I want to buy a new bulb for my stock light, all I need to search for is H4?

 

[gamorg02]

so if I want to buy a new bulb for my stock light, all I need to search for is H4?

yup. i run a silverstar ultra. awesome bulb. not cheap tho.

they just released the zxe a while back, haven't tried one but supposedly even brighter!

 

[Ridin Dirty]

I run the Silverstar Ultra also. I used to have a high wattage bulb, I think it was 90 or 100 watts. I got tired of my battery not getting enough charge. I changed all the running lights to LED and changed the headlight to the 60 watt Silver Star Ultra. Now, my battery always has plenty of charge and the engine runs better. The Silver star is a whiter colored light. It's definitely a lot better than stock, without increasing the electrical demand.

 

[Sonoran6]

I was asking because I want to try out a yellow bulb. 2500k 70/80w. Just ordered it, will report its quality when I have had a chance to test it.

 

[jfeagins]

Is a yellow bulb legal to run on the streets? Guess that'd help keep the bugs away. lol

 

[Sonoran6]

Well, there's not much that IS legal about me when I ride LOL

 

[Sonoran6]

Got it today I like it. Low beam looks slightly yellow on the road, but the high beams dont seem to be that bad.

Low beam

High beam

 

[cd wallace]

Well like the blue ones my self but have not tryed it

 

[PATMAX]

It's definitely yellow on low beam. Almost like riding my old Triumph with a bad Zener diode.
I can tell the high beam definitely reaches out there though Sonoran. Me personally, hate the blue bulbs as it is like riding by moonlight to me. I got Silverstars in one of my SUVs and would like to try the new versions if I ever lose a bulb in another vehicle. Just changed a bulb in my late model Volvo that is halogen ( pricey ) and it is nice white and bright. That's not there upgraded headlights that run separate ballasts and special bulbs. They must be awesome!

 

[satariel666]

It's definitely yellow on low beam. Almost like riding my old Triumph with a bad Zener diode.
I can tell the high beam definitely reaches out there though Sonoran. Me personally, hate the blue bulbs as it is like riding by moonlight to me. I got Silverstars in one of my SUVs and would like to try the new versions if I ever lose a bulb in another vehicle. Just changed a bulb in my late model Volvo that is halogen ( pricey ) and it is nice white and bright. That's not there upgraded headlights that run separate ballasts and special bulbs. They must be awesome!

Highly illegal in EU. I personaly hate some idiots installing thier ideas
into lamps not designed to accept that. Somethimes I whish to have a shotgun.

 

[johnpclynch]

Highly illegal in EU. I personaly hate some idiots installing thier ideas
into lamps not designed to accept that. Somethimes I whish to have a shotgun.

You should save your shotgun for bikes like this :rofl_200:

 

[headknocker]

LOL!!!!! yep i have to agree:rofl_200:

 

[satariel666]

You should save your shotgun for bikes like this :rofl_200:

For this fella I would need a nuke :rofl_200:

 

[Redbone]

To get the most out of your new bulbs or even stock bulbs try using headlight relays they will make any bulb shine brighter and take the load off of the stock wiring system. I got mine from Eastern Beaver, "H4 single headlight relay kit" which has a couple of options choose the fairing mount which comes with longer wiring for the relays to be tucked behind the scops or near the ignition module. I have the short relays and let me tell you that stuffing the relays into the headlight shell is not fun but it can be done.
The setup of the relays are pretty straight forward:
1) Run the cabling along/ through the top frame rail towards the steering head (I followed the factory wiring path).
2) Now take the headlight apart, safely set the bulb aside while you snake the 2 bulb leads into the headlight shell. One lead plugs into the factory bulb lead to get switching signals from the bike and the second lead plugs into the headlight bulb where the factory lead used to. You will want to wait to reinstall the buld until you have the rest of the wiring situated.
3) Time to tend to the wiring! If you chose to get the longer relay leads this is where you will be happy that you did. Neatly lay the wires from the headlight shell next to the factory wiring and either tape or use your favorite wire bundling method. Tuck the relays in a location somewhat protected from moisture and secure (wire tie/ etc.). Continue carefully running the wire lead back towards the battery securing (wire tie/ tape) carefully.
4) Install the ring terminals onto the battery: positive (w/ fuse) to positve/ negative to negative. I had extra wire that I bundled up near the radiator overflow bottle, you may choose to cut the wire to length.
5) Once all the wiring is done, plug in and reinstall the headlight. Now try your new, much brighter headlight and reap the additional benefit of having the headlight elctrical load carried by the relays and not across the factory switches/ wiring.
Below is a picture of the headlight relay harness, shown with the preferred, longer fairing leads: