Help, rear axlel too short!

[wildweasel_pt]

He can in theory machine the bracket on the outside (on the inside will mess with the rotor centered on caliper), the thing is that the bracket has no extra meat to be machined on the outside. If it was running well before it has to run properly now and if theres an issue the issue is on the wheel. I' recommend you to tight the pinch bolt on the right side and then screw the axle bolt to see how much axle will protrude on the left side. It will compress all the shims, bearings and spacers together. The shim that was on the right side between the bracket and swingarm originally has to be moved to the left of the wheel, not the left of the brake bracket, otherwise it will mess with the caliper position.

 

[gamorg02]

Instead of messeing with the axle, can you machine the brake bracket down on one side? That should move everything over to the right and give you enough clearance for the axle nut. My caliper bracket had to be machined down a bit but I have 190 tire and just about enough clearance on each side to fit a sheet of paper. With your 180 there should be no clearance issues. I would take off the caliper bracket, bolt everything up without it and see if the tire hits anywhere on the swingarm, if not then just machine the bracked down and it should solve your problem.

Looks like you are short the gap that is in picture two, not sure why there is such a gap, maybe the way the wheel was welded up???

i'd disagree with this as i'd want to find out *why* it doesn't fit anymore and did before, first.

 

[misiek93]

i'd disagree with this as i'd want to find out *why* it doesn't fit anymore and did before, first.

If his old wheel fits just fine and this new one does not wouldn't that say the wheel is the problem? If he bolts up everything stock, measure how much the axle is coming out, then measure the space between the new rim and the diff (pic above) and if they are about the same, wouldn't that prove the wheel offset is the issue? and if that's the case then he can get longer axle or machine the brake bracket? It makes sense in my head when I think about it :ummm: When I try to picture my wheel in my head I can't seem to recall having this gap.

 

[gamorg02]

If his old wheel fits just fine and this new one does not wouldn't that say the wheel is the problem? If he bolts up everything stock, measure how much the axle is coming out, then measure the space between the new rim and the diff (pic above) and if they are about the same, wouldn't that prove the wheel offset is the issue? and if that's the case then he can get longer axle or machine the brake bracket? It makes sense in my head when I think about it :ummm: When I try to picture my wheel in my head I can't seem to recall having this gap.

he'd have to know the exact distance the new wheel is to match the machining. thats a lot of work and it shouldnt' change if its an OEM hub in there (it looks like it is). the bearings in the rear wheel are hyper sensitive to any mis-allignment. i had issues with this about 18 mos back and took months of troubleshooting.

 

[misiek93]

he'd have to know the exact distance the new wheel is to match the machining. thats a lot of work and it shouldnt' change if its an OEM hub in there (it looks like it is). the bearings in the rear wheel are hyper sensitive to any mis-allignment. i had issues with this about 18 mos back and took months of troubleshooting.

Makes sense. I was thinking maybe the hub was welded in too far to the left, I remember when Prez did my wheel he asked me what distance would be best, I assumed he talked about this part but could have been something else:ummm:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

The offset has nothing to do with this. Offset is the position of the rims beads (tire seats) regarding to the hub. The possible problem might be the width of the hub eventhough im not leaning to that. I think its just bad assembly... I don't think he would get a non working rim from cycleoneoff... There are 2 dimensions that need attention here. The wheel has to be fitted against the diff, all the way in and then the brake bracket needs to be in place in order for the rotor to be centered on the caliper. Then the 2 dimensions im talking about are the gaps from the bracket to the right bearing and from the bracket to the swingarm on the right side. The axle just pinches all together by closing the the swingarm...

 

[gamorg02]

The offset has nothing to do with this. Offset is the position of the rims beads (tire seats) regarding to the hub. The possible problem might be the width of the hub eventhough im not leaning to that. I think its just bad assembly... I don't think he would get a non working rim from cycleoneoff... There are 2 dimensions that need attention here. The wheel has to be fitted against the diff, all the way in and then the brake bracket needs to be in place in order for the rotor to be centered on the caliper. Then the 2 dimensions im talking about are the gaps from the bracket to the right bearing and from the bracket to the swingarm on the right side. The axle just pinches all together by closing the the swingarm...

agreed.

unless it was SOOO far off the tire was hitting the swingarm and not allowing the hub to mate properly.

 

[flyordie60]

He can in theory machine the bracket on the outside (on the inside will mess with the rotor centered on caliper), the thing is that the bracket has no extra meat to be machined on the outside. If it was running well before it has to run properly now and if theres an issue the issue is on the wheel. I' recommend you to tight the pinch bolt on the right side and then screw the axle bolt to see how much axle will protrude on the left side. It will compress all the shims, bearings and spacers together. The shim that was on the right side between the bracket and swingarm originally has to be moved to the left of the wheel, not the left of the brake bracket, otherwise it will mess with the caliper position.

This is the first time im trying to fix this wheel, before the bike has the 15 inch wheel..the shim is moved to the left f the wheel already....is it a bad idea to machine the axle??

 

[wildweasel_pt]

In fact its a bad idea to machine the axle because you are going to grind the wall thickness of it. Theres a logical reason for that to be happening and usually its a simple thing. Don't start by messing with parts and then come to a conclusion that you had some part positioned badly and you ruined a part in the intent of fixing the whole issue.
The washer swap is only done when the rim is badly made, this is when the offset is badly calculated... Im sorry to say this for the guys that have that mod. The rim has to be prepared and modified in order to fit properly without any washer swap whatsoever. If you look at my wheel thread on the fabrication section (http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=20913) you will understand what im saying. I even ditch that washer that has no logical reason to be there and its just another part that will make it harder to assemble the rear axle. I just make a shim/spacer that goes inbetween the brake bracket and the bearing to center the caliper on the rotor, considering the rotor adapter plate thickness as well.

 

[naughtyG]

Interesting piece of Vmax history which may help you, from http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxhistory3.htm

In 1996 the oil drain screws at the bottom of the fork tubes were eliminated, a helmet lock was added to the left rear frame area, the rear drive housing changed slightly, bearing a surface area to mount a speedometer pick up in the casting, (used on other models) The casting was also machined down an additional ? inch at the axle nut area to accommodate a shorter axle. A larger diameter and thinner washer with a lock nut went with the deal, all Royal Star parts. The Vmax also got a larger, finned voltage regulator in ’96. Also in ’96 the Vmax got a newly designed engine block, which incorporated a spin-on oil filter and a new style connecting rod. There was also a small rubber plug or cover added to the bottom of the lower triple tree to keep water and dirt out.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

He has a '98 vmax. He has the shorter axle and narrower diff version. Unless he had his diff replaced for an older model and kept the original axle. If he didn't replace the diff what could possibly happen was the axle being too big if using an older axle with his original diff.

 

[[email protected]]

Interesting piece of Vmax history which may help you, from http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxhistory3.htm

In 1996 the oil drain screws at the bottom of the fork tubes were eliminated, a helmet lock was added to the left rear frame area, the rear drive housing changed slightly, bearing a surface area to mount a speedometer pick up in the casting, (used on other models) The casting was also machined down an additional ? inch at the axle nut area to accommodate a shorter axle. A larger diameter and thinner washer with a lock nut went with the deal, all Royal Star parts. The Vmax also got a larger, finned voltage regulator in ?96. Also in ?96 the Vmax got a newly designed engine block, which incorporated a spin-on oil filter and a new style connecting rod. There was also a small rubber plug or cover added to the bottom of the lower triple tree to keep water and dirt out.

Yes, good point. I mentioned it in post# 4. He replied saying his axle does not have a hole for the cotter pin which confirms it is the shorter, new style.

Still need to make sure it not an assembly problem before moving forward, IMO. Its also possible there is an issue with the wheel.

 

[ninjaneer]

Interesting piece of Vmax history which may help you, from http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxhistory3.htm

In 1996 the oil drain screws at the bottom of the fork tubes were eliminated, a helmet lock was added to the left rear frame area, the rear drive housing changed slightly, bearing a surface area to mount a speedometer pick up in the casting, (used on other models) The casting was also machined down an additional ? inch at the axle nut area to accommodate a shorter axle. A larger diameter and thinner washer with a lock nut went with the deal, all Royal Star parts. The Vmax also got a larger, finned voltage regulator in ?96. Also in ?96 the Vmax got a newly designed engine block, which incorporated a spin-on oil filter and a new style connecting rod. There was also a small rubber plug or cover added to the bottom of the lower triple tree to keep water and dirt out.

Doug strikes again.