Help with Bolt removal

[hijacker]

Ok, I have discovered a pretty big problem with my '94. :real mad:
Last year it developed a small oil leak at the bottom of the Crankcase Cover 2 or Secondary Gear Cover.

Thought to myself: no problem, I'll just replace the gasket. Much to my horror when I pulled the cover off the lobe for the bottom-most bolt was broken off. Had been previously because there was not aluminum pieces or debris present. You can see the broken area in the picture with round green circle around it.

So, attempts to fix the leak have been unsuccessful. I've tried just a gasket, a gasket and permatex and a thick layer of permatex with no gasket. :bang head:

I've spoken with a few people and everyone has suggested that a good next step would be to try to rebuild the missing lobe with a product such as JB Weld Steel Stick. Drill it and tap it.

In order to do this I really need to remove the plate that secures the bottom of the bearing in place. The bolts that hold that plate on have been punched so they are secured in place (see the red arrows in the picture pointing to the bolts I'm referring too).


So, I have 2 questions:::

1. does anyone have a better suggestion other than trying to rebuild the lobe with Steel Stick? Other than replacing the case half or welding.

2. How the heck do I remove those punched bolts? Just sheer force? Do I grind off the punched part of the bolt head?

Help guys!!! :th_help:

 

[gamorg02]

paging mr morley.

 

[The Beekeeper]

As suspected, someone has been in here before you, Those are probally tapered seat flat head fastners, I would try using a good center punch to get them broken loose, another option would be to tack weld a bolt onto the head and break it free that way, the heat may even work in your favor, other than building up the broken area and drill/tap I have no other ideas on your case issue, good luck............................Tom.

 

[dannymax]

That bottom bolt is the one with the copper sealing washer, it goes into an oil galley and is the drain for the transmission...you'll want to be sure you drill all the way thru your build-up to preserve the drain.

Probly want some depth measurements before starting.

 

[one2dmax]

Well ****. Not a lost cause but will take a bit of work. Simply use a torx bit to get the bolts for the retainer out of the way. Clean up the oil as best you can and then you'll need to weld up the area to build material for the bolt. Once done you can use the mid gear cover as your guide to redrill the location. Should allow for proper clamp up pressure once done and solve the oil leak.

Sean

 

[hijacker]

Thanks for the info guys.

dannymax, I did not realize that was the drain, thank you for pointing that very important bit of info out. Probably saved me a lot of heart ache.

Thanks Sean, basically what I was thinking, but it's good to hear it from the experts too.

 

[cgswss]

Do you have a Hammer driver? I found one that takes 1/4" bits which I have a bunch of in Torx bits because I have never used one. Any way I would suggest using a hammer to break those free.

I would weld up the case. This is the insides of your engine for goodness sake, don't micky mouse it up with JB weld or liquid alum or such.

A good welder could most likely do the welding with the engine still in the frame

 

[one2dmax]

Yes, we'd repair it in the bike. Hardest part is drilling/tapping back out without getting too many shavings in the engine. Done repairs like this plenty of times before. I will mention that the stuff seen on the counter at many hardware stores "Real Aluminum" that comes in tubes and looks like play dough works much better then you'd think.

Sean

 

[sdt354]

I've been experimenting with the torch weld Alluminum rods sold on e-bay. I welded up some old scoops for practice and the stuff seems pretty strong. I looks and flows more like tin than aluminum ,but had good adhesion. I think a pro. welder with a good TIG machine would be a better choice for interior engine stuff. That bolt is critical like Danny mentioned.
As far as the shavings from grinding and drilling? I'd use a good dose of heavey grease around the area to block the filings. Put some on the drill bit too,the filings stick to it well. Then tilt the bike and wash it out a couple of times. Atf fluid is a good cleaner for that.
Steve-o

 

[Fire-medic]

Good luck w/the repair. I would look to weld it instead of using some metal powder epoxy.

You mentioned "replacing the case half." The machined openings where half the opening is in each case half require in nearly all instances to have the pair of cases to be replaced. Otherwise, the variations from one set to another may mean your bits & pieces aren't held in-place w/sufficient holding power, or there isn't sufficient clearance because one is now too-small. Align-boring is done w/the cases torqued-together for those types of holes. Any of the pro. machinists on-here please correct me if this is incorrect. if it was a Miller Indy engine where it's one of only hundreds built then you might be doing something like building-up the opening and re-machining it, but for our mass-produced motors, 'buy a complete matched-pair.'

I had a machinist take a pipe plug and drill a hole to fit it into the case of a KZ1000 I had that had a case cover screw hole w/the screw broken-off. The case was thick-enough to allow the threads sufficient 'purchase,' and he used the strong threadlocker on the pipe plug, and then he used the case cover to locate the hole in the pipe plug when he drilled & tapped it. It worked like a charm, and never gave me a bit of trouble until I sold the bike. It took him about an hour.

 

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I've been experimenting with the torch weld Alluminum rods sold on e-bay. I welded up some old scoops for practice and the stuff seems pretty strong.
Steve-o

I had bought some of those to repair a cracked water pump cover on my CR. It took a lot more heat than I thought it would to get it flowing but, it worked pretty well. It has held up for a few years now.

 

[[email protected]]

On another note, if he does take it somewhere to be welded, would it be advisable to disconnect the CDI or any other electronics?

 

[NHVmaxpower]

The bearing in the pic does that ever go bad & is it easy to remove & replace??

 

[hijacker]

Simply use a torx bit to get the bolts for the retainer out of the way.

Sean

Just to be clear on this, I can just turn those bolts that have been punched to secure them from turning? I don't have to do anything special to remove them?

I would hate to begin turning them and have the aluminum threads tear out of the case or something.

Thanks for all the comments guys. keep the ideas coming.

 

[davidon]

I'm no expert but I have tried to remove those staked bolts on a blown engine a while back and they would not budge..with an impact. Personally i would try and seal the cover better. Where was the leak coming from?

 

[one2dmax]

They come loose. Just a good fitting socket type torx. Do it all the time for trans repairs. You will usually even be able to tighten them back up when done and have the heads drop into the same spot.

 

[hijacker]

They come loose. Just a good fitting socket type torx. Do it all the time for trans repairs. You will usually even be able to tighten them back up when done and have the heads drop into the same spot.

Cool, thank you.