Help with fork seals

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Naughty, fix your icon since I can't view any threads you have posted to with it. It's either that or I quit posting.

Sean
 
Naughty, fix your icon since I can't view any threads you have posted to with it. It's either that or I quit posting.

Sean

You can turn off your view of images as well. I will agree while I like to see ****s that in a house with kids it won't work well.

The tape goes right on the top lip of the fork. Right where the cap screws on.
 
yea, +1 NG, if i disable all pics i can't see anything else. not to be a pain....

also yea i think ur looking $30 with shipping from anywhere, but it pays for itself the first use. too much paper to scan in. if someone needed just one jobs worth i can do them once in a while, but def a pain. i did the wheel bearings for 44 magnum.

haynes and clymer available via bikebandit

haynes via amazon and jcwhitney
 
Naughty, fix your icon since I can't view any threads you have posted to with it. It's either that or I quit posting.

Sean

Avatar has been changed. Sorry I was very fond of that GIF (and I'm sure many others were too lol), but yea, not everyone can watch..
:confused2:

I thought that considering the avatars of 4Gasem, Redbone, Rhoke and the like it would be safe, but I guess bare nipples is more than some can take. Not meant to offend, just a hypnotic trance massage and, I must add, it was a woman actually conducting a breast examination to make sure there weren't any lumps. Of course we all have our own lumps to deal with.. :rofl_200:
 
Personally I don't have an issue with it, but many live in an open office environment. Mine is suggestive but not revealing...
 
yea, its just the line. plus any animation makes it more noticable. doesn't bother me one bit.
 
Nah, at home it's fine even if my kids walk by. It's nothing to be ashamed of. But the folks at the day job would have a cow!

Sean
 
ya I sometime get the same problem here at work - most of the kids I teach are fine but some may just freak and then I get the sack lol..

I usually just scroll past Redbone's posts real quick when someone walks by ;-)
 
FIrst of all I'd liek to thank all that supplied input on this topic, without it I would have never been able to get it done! And that is exactly what i did. I put the seals in last night. I took my time and was very careful and i think it was a success, although i have not ridden the bike yet to make sure. I do have on question though, how much oil goes in the front forks? The Book i had said 15.3 OZ. But it also had the wrong picture and instruction for the air fill for the tubes. The book i had showed and detailed the single air air inlet with teh cross over tube. My forks have individual air fittings on the top of the fork tubes. I just want to make sure i have this right, i used Bel-Ray 15w.

I also did the Furber(sp) fix while i was working. Correct my process if i'm wrong. I removed the top spanner nut, removed the rubber washer. I adjusted the lower spanner nut so there was no tight spots or issues, but did not bounce when let go towards full turn stops. I then reinstalled the other spanner and tightened it, installed the locking washer, then the rubber bushing, reinstalled the tripples, and tightened the top nut? Does all this sound correct?

Thanks to all your help guys, it's invalueable.
 
FIrst of all I'd liek to thank all that supplied input on this topic, without it I would have never been able to get it done! And that is exactly what i did. I put the seals in last night. I took my time and was very careful and i think it was a success, although i have not ridden the bike yet to make sure. I do have on question though, how much oil goes in the front forks? The Book i had said 15.3 OZ. But it also had the wrong picture and instruction for the air fill for the tubes. The book i had showed and detailed the single air air inlet with teh cross over tube. My forks have individual air fittings on the top of the fork tubes. I just want to make sure i have this right, i used Bel-Ray 15w.

I also did the Furber(sp) fix while i was working. Correct my process if i'm wrong. I removed the top spanner nut, removed the rubber washer. I adjusted the lower spanner nut so there was no tight spots or issues, but did not bounce when let go towards full turn stops. I then reinstalled the other spanner and tightened it, installed the locking washer, then the rubber bushing, reinstalled the tripples, and tightened the top nut? Does all this sound correct?

Thanks to all your help guys, it's invalueable.

not sure on the first, but i'm watching this carefully.

and yes on the second, just make sure u don't crank down the top spanner nut, just enough to keep the bottom one staying.
 
not sure on the first, but i'm watching this carefully.

and yes on the second, just make sure u don't crank down the top spanner nut, just enough to keep the bottom one staying.

So if the slots don't line up for the spanner lock washer to go back in properly, what do you do? Not put it on? I had to get my top spanner nut pretty tight to get the rooves to line up. It was close without going what i figured was overboard, so i trimeed the locks on the washer to fit in the grooves, and paint marked it all so i could see if it comes loose.
 
well yea, thats what i meant. every time i've done it, its just needed like a 1/8" more on the top nut to line it up more. thats why the rubber washer is originally there i think, to provide some slack if they dont line up properly.
 
would 21 oz throw it off? Like theres gotta be some room for error eh?
 
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