Help with homemade synchronizer

[shane_desselle]

I got it. I just used two glass pickle jars and transmission fluid. Synced them and the bike runs ALOT better. I'm gonna go see if i can get some first gear power wheelies now!

 

[fatbiker]

I dropped by Shane's house and took a look at his Max. The carbs were off a little bit but the bike is way short on power. He has a 4 into 2 Kerker exhaust plus a K&N filter with the Y removed from the airbox but I believe he has a stock carb setup. It idles great and runs smooth but has no pep and you can barely feel when the V Boost kicks in. My stock 2005 has tons more power and kicks hard when the V Boost engages. I thin his stock carbs are robbing him of power. I recommended he send them to DannyMax or Sean Morley for upgrades that will benefit the increased airflow his airbox and exhaust provide. Any suggestions on what needs to be done to the carbs?

Fatbiker

 

[shane_desselle]

fatbiker, thanks for the assist, bro! I felt like the bike should have more power but i had no way to be sure since this is the only max I've ever ridden. U confirmed my suspensions.

 

[one2dmax]

Do them stock and change mains to smaller. Would be nice to know what needles are in there though.

 

[fatbiker]

I'm no pro but the needles look stock. It does not appear that the carbs have been upgraded in any way over stock. What size main's do you recommend Sean? Do you recommend we put the Y back in the airbox or leave it off?

 

[DMAN999]

As far as I know the Kerker 4-2's are just slip-ons, they do make a 4-1 full system though.
http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=15
They should work fine with the Stock jetting and airbox.
You should put the Y back on the airbox.
And you can go down from Mikuni 152.5 mains to Mikuni 150 mains but it isn't absolutely required.
I have Supertrapp slip-ons and they work well with the Stock jetting but are just a bit little rich.
I'll be putting in some 150 mains when I do my carb rebuild.

 

[fatbiker]

Thanks DMAN999! We'll put the Y back on the air box and see if that helps.

 

[one2dmax]

I would suggest the "Y" back in place as has been pointed out. I would use the 147.5 mains too.

 

[shane_desselle]

Ok, thanks. It would help if i had the y to put back on there though! Lol It was already taken off when i got the bike. Thanks for the advice. fatbiker has one he's going to sell me so hopefully this will work.

 

[one2dmax]

I have some around here I can donate to the cause.

 

[shane_desselle]

Sean, i would really appreciate that alot. Can u send it monday? This forum is awesome.

 

[shane_desselle]

Do u really think my problem can be solved this simple. I noticed that without the filter and airbox my bike would barely rev to 4 grand. Would getting too much air kill the power this way?

 

[DMAN999]

^ Yes too much air will definitely affect the power.
Make sure the rubber joints on the air box are fully seated on the carbs as well.
Air leaks there will affect how well it runs as well.
Our bikes will barely run without the air box on without the air restrictors used with the Stage 7 and Morley's Jet kits.

 

[one2dmax]

The airbox "Y" will affect power but not in a huge manner. Email me at [email protected]

 

[shane_desselle]

Sean, i sent u an email. If there's anyone out there that feels like they might have a solution, plz feel free to call or text me anytime at 8324368644. I'd be completely in the dark if it wasn't for this forum. Other than dirtbikes, this is the first bike I've ever owned that wasn't fuel injected..

 

[DMAN999]

^ Sean's right.
Having the Y off will affect power a little but won't make a huge difference.
And like I said, check for air leaks on ALL the carb boots and check for exhaust leaks as well.

You also might want to do the Shotgun Idle circuit cleaning just to see if it helps:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55030067/Shooting%20the%20Shotgun%20-%20LvLHead.pdf

I'd check the cylinders temps after the bike is warmed up and make sure it is firing on all 4 and not just 3.
And testing the plugs to be sure they are all in good shape and are all firing.

 

[Traumahawk]

^ Sean's right.
Having the Y off will affect power a little but won't make a huge difference.
And like I said, check for air leaks on ALL the carb boots and check for exhaust leaks as well.

You also might want to do the Shotgun Idle circuit cleaning just to see if it helps:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/55030067/Shooting%20the%20Shotgun%20-%20LvLHead.pdf

I'd check the cylinders temps after the bike is warmed up and make sure it is firing on all 4 and not just 3.
And testing the plugs to be sure they are all in good shape and are all firing.

+1....check for leaks first, and do the shotgun. My Vmax...actually picked up 2 hp by taking the Y off at the dyno, and so I rode around with it like that for about a year until I picked up Seans kit.

 

[shane_desselle]

How can i check the temps on the cylinders?

 

[DMAN999]

I just Warm the bike up and put my hand on each cylinder for a second to see if they are all warm.

Also have you looked at your plugs at all ?
What color are they, are they wet ?
They should all be dry and tan.
Like this:

 

[Traumahawk]

What I used was just a 35 dollar IR temp gun from harbor freight. The stock exhaust is double walled....and I dont know how well that will do, but I know that it works great with aftermarket exhaust.

Remember, lean burns hot, and rich burns cooler. I got all of mine withing 50 degrees of each other, and measure about the same distance on the headers. I took temps about an inch coming out of the head.