Help with oil change

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steelfish

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Hi there, huge problem here. Cannot take the bolt off, trying to change oil. It's stripped, used spray on stuff to loosen the bolt. Nothing is working at all. Give me some ideas, cannot lift bike. What are my choices here? Pleaseeee I want to ride now:ummm:
 
Which bolt are you talking about? The drain bolt? The oil filter bolt? The filler cap bolt?

And when you say stripped, are you talking about the thread, or about the head of the bolt?
 
the drain bolt? it doesn't go on that that tight. can u get vice grips on it maybe? its a 17mm headed bolt, shouldn't be on that crazy.
 
It's a drain bolt, head is stripped. Didn't have wisegrips to try.
 
Hopefully I'm turning the right way. From the right side of the bike, socket on the bolt and pushing towards the rear.
 
yea you're turning in the right way. get a new drain plug, there were some magnetic ones on ebay a while back for cheap, and get either vice grips or bolt extractors.
 
I have a vise-grip set, they've saved my ass god knows how many times from stripped bolts and screws. Most recently when I was taking the rear rotor off. the allen stripped right out, grabbed the needlenosed vise-grips and 30 sec later, voila! done.
 
I hope you don't have to lift the whole bike to take it off. Metric set, 17mm.
 
I'll get the vise grips tomorrow. If it fails, bolt extractor is my other choice. Thanx to all of you for replies.
 
Coupla things: if you get the bolt that fits the pumpkin (rear differential), it comes with the magnet.

Also, if vise grips won't work, you can either use a metal saw to make a groove in the bolt then use a large flat blade screwdriver; or you can use a small punch and hammer, and hit the top side of the bolt to loosen it.
 
Coupla things: if you get the bolt that fits the pumpkin (rear differential), it comes with the magnet.

Also, if vise grips won't work, you can either use a metal saw to make a groove in the bolt then use a large flat blade screwdriver; or you can use a small punch and hammer, and hit the top side of the bolt to loosen it.


I was thinking about making a groove in the bolt ,but didn't want to destroy it. Well, now I have to. I do have bolt in my rear differential that's with a magnet, could you explain why that question? Man it's too tight to play with bottom of this bike.
 
All I'm saying is that if you replace your drain bolt with the same as is in the pumpkin, you will then have the added advantage of the magnet, which collects metal debris in your oil and is a good indicator of your engine's condition.

You should be able to get that bolt from your local Yamaha stealers or order it from BikeBandit or PinWall cycles.
 
I see, thanx for explaining. So there is a benefit in it. I'll get one soon.
 
Are you using a 12 point or a 6 point socket ? A 6 might still grab it if a 12 is stripped. Vise grips are ok, but if they start slipping , the job can really turn into a pain. Get a 6 point & hammer it on if you half to - just my 2 cents...
 
Let us know how it turned out - you shouldn't need to lift the bike at all. The head of that bolt is large enough, and it shouldn't be torqued too tight, so you shouldn't have problems with some vise grips.
 
Steelfish....regarding which way to loosen/tighten bolts, regular right hand threads...as you face the bolt or nut...loosen counterclockwise and tighten clockwise.

Left hand threads are, of course, the opposite.

So visualize yourself facing the bolt and apply the cw, ccw formula and you got it.
 
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