HID setup

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shocks are works performance. I did recaetech forks sprigs & GV first mod on the bike then did the works shocks, I think suspension is the first performance mod to be done on a stock max.

the Chines cockpit comes with chowmein or steamed rice & two sides :rofl_200: the turn signal relocation worked well, car drivers think its a police bike and open up the way, the lights are wickedly bright too, two 35watt 5000K HIDs & main headlight has an H4 LED = 3 watts for day time see photo

Great side affect.
 
I really don't want to have to cut up my headlight housing. I guess once it arrives and I determine whether or not it will fit, I may have a slightly used kit for sale.
Duct tape? Electrical tape? I for one don't plan on butchering my beautiful bike. To each his own but as is, I'm a little skeptical on how much of a benefit the HID will be in the stock headlight housing. For less than $60 bucks for the kit shipped, I figure it's worth the gamble that it will fit and if not, at least I'll know and like I said, I may have it for sale cheap if it doesn't fit.
Has anyone had any probs with the 35 watt kit fitting or just the 55 watt?

The amount you need to cut is minor and the casual observer will never see it. I think the HID is a great benefit. The stock headlight sucks for the amount of light it puts on the road. The Eastern Beaver relay kit and the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb I ran before cost more than my HID kit and the Ultra's only lasted a year before they burned out. The HID puts a ton more light to the road and are supposed to last much longer than the high end halogen bulbs.
 
Well I finally was able to get in touch with DDMtuning support. Yes, they changed their HID bulb supplier and there's nothing that they can do. This is now a necessary mod for the light housing to cut out the rear as stated from everyone. I for one will not do this if my bulb ever fails. I am going to research replacement bulbs that are similar like mine. I will post my findings on this. I have always been telling myself that I should get a spare replacement bulb since if it goes bad, im out of riding until a replacement can be delivered.
 
Well I finally was able to get in touch with DDMtuning support. Yes, they changed their HID bulb supplier and there's nothing that they can do. This is now a necessary mod for the light housing to cut out the rear as stated from everyone. I for one will not do this if my bulb ever fails. I am going to research replacement bulbs that are similar like mine. I will post my findings on this. I have always been telling myself that I should get a spare replacement bulb since if it goes bad, im out of riding until a replacement can be delivered.

This is exactly why I said "its pure luck on the part of DDM" to have a slightly shorter bulb. but every few years they come up with a new design so maybe the next one will be shorter. but I really don't see cutting the housing a big problem, the bulb base is still water proof unless you submerge the bulb in water. if you want the truth all Chinese made telescopic bulbs have a poor design, they vibrate sideway & the fit is not precise, but at least they got the location of hi & low beams right. I wish I can find an H4 bulb made in Germany or some decent manufacturer, Phillips, Hella and osarum don't want to touch the H4 bulbs at all when it comes to HID bulbs.
 
& main headlight has an H4 LED = 3 watts for day time see photo


How do you like that LED bulb?

Most places that sell them say "not for headlight use", not sure if that's because light output is too low, or they're just not DOT approved.
 
How do you like that LED bulb? Does it still give a high/low beam?

Most places that sell them say "not for headlight use", not sure if that's because light output is too low, or they're just not DOT approved.

Its not made for driving light & light output is pitiful may be 150 lumen's but Fair - for day light running light & that's what I am using it for since I have two 35watt HIDs for night time I find this sufficient for day time to save the strain on my charging system, don't buy it, if you want to try it I have an extra one I can send to you, the bulb has Hi/Low but the difference is very small, I would categorize this H4 LED as a stupid bulb that is not worth a penny.

I would still use a 55watt HID H4 and be very happy in the stock headlight even if you have to cut a hole in the back. the hella lights I have are one intensity not hi/low so it does irritate the hell out of opposite traffic unless I point them down enough, from behind cars they just want me pass because the light hits them from the side and rear view mirror like a police search light:)))))), its like an antibiotic resistant bacteria.
 
Ah, ok. Probably have to wait another few years for the LED headlight luxury car technology to trickle down to the consumer/aftermarket level.

Thought I read one of the new Ducati's was the first bike to have stock LED headlights also.
 
Ah, ok. Probably have to wait another few years for the LED headlight luxury car technology to trickle down to the consumer/aftermarket level.

Thought I read one of the new Ducati's was the first bike to have stock LED headlights also.

the most powerful LED is just 3 watt, wait until they come up with a 10 or 20 watt LED so a housing that has 8 LEDs would use 80 watts and live indefinitely, for now HID is king & LEDs are just used for day light running lights/ fog lights.
 
where did you guys hook up the power and ground wires and do I need to do anything with the extra leads for the second head light? I guess the wiring harness is universal for cars and bikes with dual head lights. According to instructions, The positive lead needs to be connected directly to battery. I've never had the seat off to access the battery but found some good tips on here for removing the seat. Just wondering if any of you guys opted for a different power supply location. Thanks
 
Holy crap! Where do put all this crap. I got my power lead hooked to the battery but in my efforts to tuck everything away, it looks like i pulled the power wire loose from it's solder joint. Guess I'll start pealing harnesses back til I find where it hooks up. Haven't even gotten around to hacking up my headlight bucket. I have a nice set of hole saws though that should make that part pretty easy. I'm not as concerned now about cutting it and exposing everything to the elements after disassembling and finding it was never sealed off to start with! Once this is finally done, no more mods to the max for a while....at least a week or two, haha
 
where did you guys hook up the power and ground wires and do I need to do anything with the extra leads for the second head light? I guess the wiring harness is universal for cars and bikes with dual head lights. According to instructions, The positive lead needs to be connected directly to battery. I've never had the seat off to access the battery but found some good tips on here for removing the seat. Just wondering if any of you guys opted for a different power supply location. Thanks

You should just have the one headlight with a Hi/Lo HID bulb. What kit did you get?
 
I got the H4 6000k 35w. I do just have the one bulb and socket but my harness has the extra leads for another light. Everything looks as though it will all plug in but will have an extra harness coming off for another head light. My biggest issue at this point is I have accidentally pulled the solder joint apart for the positive lead and I can't find where it goes in the harness. I've pulled back all of the harnesses and I can't find the joint. Have to put it on hold for now. The kiddo is in a school play (West Side Story). The wife and I are puttin on our fancy duds and gonna go check out a high school musical. Hopefully I'll have time to mess with it some more tonight when we get home or tomorrow before work.
 
Wow, I cannot locate where the battery power wire connects to the harness. I truly feel like an idiot for pulling it loose but I am in utter disbelief that I cannot locate the original joint on the harness. I guess I will go look one more time before I start removing the kit. I wonder though, since it is the main battery power wire can I just splice it in to any of the heavy gauge red wires, HMMM.
 
H4 hid kit are usually plugged on the H4 socket. The ballast will get high or low beam from it. So normally plug and play.

You would wire to the battery only with a relay, your H4 socket thrn will provide the switched power but not the main power.

Just not sure what kit you got and how you started to wire it.
Post some pics that would help.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
OK, I am officially too tired to be messing with this right now. I spliced the power wire into one of the red wires on the kit and everything works great except for when I shut the bike off, the headlight stayed on. I realize now that there is probably a relay for the headlight system that when the kit is installed correctly allows the HID system to function as it should.
I've been on DDM's site numerous times looking for a wiring diagram and as of yet, I can't find one. I'm sure this is supposed to be a "plug and play" setup and it's probably my bad for pulling the power wire loose but damn, where do I connect the battery wire. Usually even the biggest piece of shxx aftermarket radio has a fxxkin wiring diagram!
Any way, if any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm doing wrong, I would appreciate some knowledge/advice. I'm not sure what good pictures would do at this point but I will snap some if necessary.
Right now, the light comes on as it should, once the bike is started. When I turn the key to "off" the headlamp stays on and continue to stay on until I unplug the two wire connector(red and black flat connector) Still haven't got everything tucked away buy I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
 
H4 hid kit are usually plugged on the H4 socket. The ballast will get high or low beam from it. So normally plug and play.

You would wire to the battery only with a relay, your H4 socket thrn will provide the switched power but not the main power.

Just not sure what kit you got and how you started to wire it.
Post some pics that would help.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

That makes perfect sense! I've been trying to follow instructions that I found on this thread but stupid me, it never clicked that the instructions were for wiring a car.

I'm not sure what exactly to take a picture of. It's not exactly laid out so you can see what's what.

I suspect that just eliminating the power wire from the battery all together will correct my issue but then again, do I even have the right kit?
 
Take a pic of ur kit and the harness or wires provided. From there we can tell how to wire it. What else did you get aside the ballast and bulb?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Here is my DDM Wire loom:
IMG_1617.jpg
The fused red wire with the connector for the battery connects to the H4 labled connector.
IMG_1615.jpg
There are 8 wires going into the H4 connector 3 red/ orange/ brown/ pink/ blue and white.
IMG_1616.jpg
The fused connector connects to the H4 connector between the pink and blue wire in my DDM HID loom.
IMG_1620.jpg
I hope I understood what you were looking for or that this is the same loom as yours. Let me know if there are other pictures you need of the loom.
 
I too just placed my HID kit into my Max, I did not pull the wiring loom open, I did think it was silly to have a the extra wiring when they know what bike you are putting it in to. I think they make a 'one fits all' wiring harness, add that to the bulb type, wattage and Kelvin you pick out, then add the slim or regular ballast and ship it. Even if you had a two head light system on the bike it would still be too much wiring for a motorcycle.
I did cut my headlight bucket to make the HID light fit, I pulled all wires out and relocated what was not needed for the headlight. So the turn signal wires and the speedo wires are now behind the neck. I ran the power wire down the battery and grounded it on the frame near the neck. I ended up pushing all the extra wire in front of the air box, the relay ended up on the key side up front and the rest on the other side. It was tight but it all fitted, nothing will 'fall' down onto the boost or back onto the carb linkage. I will say the light brightness and how strong it is was worth the headlight bucket getting cut. I am think of ordering another kit for my truck I like so much
 
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