High speed wobble

[DMAN999]

I've been over 140 more times than I care to admit on my 2000 and have never had a high speed wobble.
I did have a low speed wobble a few times when my front tire was worn down and replacing it fixed that.
I do however check my head bearings every spring and adjust them as needed using Sean's Bounce Test Method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW-CmACI5xQ

 

[Miles Long]

It's incredibly scary. I've never had it on any of my Max's but once on a v65 sabre. Anyway, glad you kept it together. I'd check the wheel bearing itself as well as the head bearings. I've always done the furbur fix to mine as well as progressive springs, no wobble with any on the 4 I've owned. Don't accept that it wobbles, people will say that it's just something Vmax's do, but it's not, and there is always a reason. Also check out Sean Morleys youtube video on how to adjust the steering head tightness??? I've done as he shows and it's worked perfectly for me. Good luck.
Matt

Many will disagree, but this is what cured the wobble for me. This is after checking wheel alignment, tire pressures, and head stock bearing condition and adjustment.
What have you got to loose? A simple modification, easily rectified back to stock, if you find it ineffective.
Cheers!

 

[Traumahawk]

I had the Vmax wobble when I bought the bike. Easily cured with Seans video. Start with the most simple easiest fix....and them work your way to the harder fixes.

 

[Hellboy]

Many will disagree, but this is what cured the wobble for me. This is after checking wheel alignment, tire pressures, and head stock bearing condition and adjustment.
What have you got to loose? A simple modification, easily rectified back to stock, if you find it ineffective.
Cheers!

Many would disagree with what? I think you might mean a few would disagree. Most people are smart enough to know that it is not normal. You just said you cured yours and without modifying anything, just simple maintenance. I'd like to know who here has a Vmax that just thinks they have to have a wobble. And Why they or anyone would want to ride a dangerous bike. If I had a bike that had a high speed wobble that couldn't be fixed, I'd sell it ASAP. The Vmax didn't last for 20+ years on the market with a built in high speed wobble (tank slapper).

 

[one2dmax]

There are some that don't agree with my method of adjustment. It's not exactly by the manuals method.

 

[Hamkaas]

It's incredibly scary. I've never had it on any of my Max's but once on a v65 sabre. Anyway, glad you kept it together. I'd check the wheel bearing itself as well as the head bearings. I've always done the furbur fix to mine as well as progressive springs, no wobble with any on the 4 I've owned. Don't accept that it wobbles, people will say that it's just something Vmax's do, but it's not, and there is always a reason. Also check out Sean Morleys youtube video on how to adjust the steering head tightness??? I've done as he shows and it's worked perfectly for me. Good luck.
Matt

Matt do you have a link to this Morley video?

 

[CrackerRican]

Its 5 post above your post. Scroll up ↑↑↑

 

[Miles Long]

Many would disagree with what? I think you might mean a few would disagree. Most people are smart enough to know that it is not normal. You just said you cured yours and without modifying anything, just simple maintenance. I'd like to know who here has a Vmax that just thinks they have to have a wobble. And Why they or anyone would want to ride a dangerous bike. If I had a bike that had a high speed wobble that couldn't be fixed, I'd sell it ASAP. The Vmax didn't last for 20+ years on the market with a built in high speed wobble (tank slapper).

Mr. Hellboy -
I gotta clarify things a tad. The Furbur Fix cured the low-speed wobble that my bike had, when I purchase it new. The high-speed wobble was addressed by adding a external frame, progressive springs , and a wrap-around fork brace.
As I stated, I did the F.F. as a last resort, after adjusting the headstock bearings myself, and then having the dealer do it. Tire pressures and wheel alignment had been done previously, again with no results.
Prior to the Furbur Fix, the bike had a wobble from 30-50 KPH. I considered this as just an annoyance, until one day the bike went into a violent tank-slapper mode, again at about 30 KPH. Very nearly spit me off.
I stated that "many will disagree" because many have tried the Fix, with no results. They think it is only a temporary cure for h.s. bearing problems. I can only say that it worked for me, and continues to work, after about 8 yrs and 75,000 kilometers of road time.
I have a good idea about WHY the Fix works, but that's another story.
Cheers!

 

[Hellboy]

Miles Long, Fair enough. I would have to admit, that now that you've stated that and I read your earlier post that I took those 3 simple adjustments as your fix and not as what you tried before the mods came into play.

Matt

 

[Itgoes]

A low speed "weave" .... hands on the bars, hard to keep the bike tracking straight, goes left than right etc. is caused by too tight, dry, or bad steering head bearings.

A low speed "shimmy" with hands off the bars or held lightly usually while decelerating is caused by too loose or worn out steering bearings.

A high speed "weave" in turns is mostly due to the frame design and swing arm flexing and in my experience is generated in the rear of the bike.

A high speed "weave" when going straight can be a number of things; tires, fairing, seating position, steering head bearings and it's all made possible or worse because of the frame and swing arm deficiencies.

A high speed "wobble", "shimmy" or "tank slapper" is usually caused when the front end gets unsettled at speed after hitting a bump on the road. Less than great forks, frame, tires and too loose steering head bearing are likely causes.

If you like going that fast, then carefully maintaining the suspension, steering and tires is critical. After that, better springs/shocks in the front and rear, solid motor mounts, a fork brace, a braced swing arm will all make incremental improvements. And of course radial tires are a big improvement.

On my last Gen 1 I had a Racetech front suspension, Works shocks in the rear, a fork brace and solid motor mounts. With this combination I never had any sign of a high speed wobble with bias ply tires. You could still feel a weave on really fast sweepers (again coming from the rear) but it was never scary...just a little uncomfortable.

On my Gen 2 I can run to 170 MPH and the bike feels like it is on rails. It has a very stiff frame and swing arm, and the front forks are huge. It really feels like it's all one piece at speed.

 

[Wrinkled Wrider]

Yeah, I had the low speed gollywobbles and followed the excellent advice on this forum.
Check steering head bearings for wear and most importantly RETORQUE them to spec.
For whatever reason Gen 1 s are prone to this instability.
This is the easiest, cheapest and most effective "fix". Try it first.
Keep vertical ,
WW

 

[Redbone]

Rejected VMAX ad campaign: But it is really, really safe at this speed...at least until you let go of that front brake!

:rofl_200:

DISCLAIMER: I've been over 130mph on mine a few dozen times and it has never done the Death Wobble (yet).

The answer is in all of these posts more or less, in involves persistent maintenance of all the moveable parts that is doing the work when your riding your Vmax. Check all bearings and maintain them with appropriate lubrication and tension. Check both tires for proper inflation, wear patterns. Check wheels and brakes for proper rotational stability and tension on bolts holding wheels in proper location. Check that your suspension is setup properly for your intended use; proper sag and adjustability for weight fluctuations (ex: adding a passenger/ gear for week long trip). Check all fasteners that are on your motorcycle for proper tension; people say that I'm crazy to ride fast on such an old bike, I say it would be crazy to ride a bike however new it may be without checking ALL the bolts on your bikes. I use my winter downtime to check all my bolts on my 23 year old bike.
As RaWarrior stated the Vmax is a 1980's design with a heavy high output motor with the ability to out run it's aerodynamic abilities. There have been advances to improve on the design to exceed the original intentions (and possibly the dreams) of it's designers which involves the liberal use of plastic (credit limits apply here) and application of mechanical skills along with a healthy dose of VMF insight that a Vmax can actually be a sum greater than its parts.

There are some that don't agree with my method of adjustment. It's not exactly by the manuals method.

I have used this method while my Vmax was stock, and along with each stage of modification that Redbone has undergone since 2007. It is not a stand alone cure-all, you have to do your due diligence according to the level of the bike maintenance history.



My current iteration of Redbone has a 3" over braced swingarm, Progressive 440 shocks w/ stock rate springs set on lowest spring rate for solo riding, Progressive fork springs, Ricor Intiminators, I think 10 wt. fork oil although could be 15 wt., Carrozzeria 18" wheels with Shinko 200/ 50VR 18 Rear and 120/ 70ZR 18 Front and solid motor mounts. Most bolts have been upgraded using SS or Titanium bolts. There are a few bolts that would require a custom machining run to upgrade, vanity loses out here until a group buy is organized or the lottery is hit.. ;-)

 

[Traumahawk]

A low speed "weave" .... hands on the bars, hard to keep the bike tracking straight, goes left than right etc. is caused by too tight, dry, or bad steering head bearings.

A low speed "shimmy" with hands off the bars or held lightly usually while decelerating is caused by too loose or worn out steering bearings.

A high speed "weave" in turns is mostly due to the frame design and swing arm flexing and in my experience is generated in the rear of the bike.

A high speed "weave" when going straight can be a number of things; tires, fairing, seating position, steering head bearings and it's all made possible or worse because of the frame and swing arm deficiencies.

A high speed "wobble", "shimmy" or "tank slapper" is usually caused when the front end gets unsettled at speed after hitting a bump on the road. Less than great forks, frame, tires and too loose steering head bearing are likely causes.

If you like going that fast, then carefully maintaining the suspension, steering and tires is critical. After that, better springs/shocks in the front and rear, solid motor mounts, a fork brace, a braced swing arm will all make incremental improvements. And of course radial tires are a big improvement.

On my last Gen 1 I had a Racetech front suspension, Works shocks in the rear, a fork brace and solid motor mounts. With this combination I never had any sign of a high speed wobble with bias ply tires. You could still feel a weave on really fast sweepers (again coming from the rear) but it was never scary...just a little uncomfortable.

On my Gen 2 I can run to 170 MPH and the bike feels like it is on rails. It has a very stiff frame and swing arm, and the front forks are huge. It really feels like it's all one piece at speed.

Thank you for posting this.....this is a LOT of very good info.

 

[Redbone]

thank you for posting this.....this is a lot of very good info.

+1

 

[Lotsokids]

UPDATE​

Adjusted the head bearings using Morley's "bounce" method. Turned about 1/2 turn tighter until no bounce. Took it for a test ride and seemed to trade the high-speed wobble for a low-speed weave. I might have tightened too much. I backed it off a little, and will test ride later.

During today's test ride, the bike seemed unstable at any speed. It wobbled slightly during hard acceleration, but again, may be the bearing adjustment.

This bike is super powerful, and the exhaust roars like a top fuel dragster. But unfortunately I don't trust it yet. I've been riding on the street long enough to know when something is not right. :confused2:

 

[Traumahawk]

I have always been told that if the bearings are too tight...the bike will have a low speed weave.

 

[jfeagins]

You have a tire (betting rear) that has an amount of side to side runout. Put it on the center stand and check the rear. You can then jack up the front slightly to give it an inspection also.

 

[sdt354]

Sometimes bearings will wear notches into the races. If they do, adjustment won't work. I always do a visual inspection first, if unknown race/bearing condition exist.
+1 one on tire run-out. Plus swing arm and wheel bearing condition. I'm sure no one needs to be reminded of proper tire inflation.

 

[Lotsokids]

Rode today. High-speed wobble came back slightly once under hard acceleration. Later today coming home from work, it didn't. But I was holding the bars TIGHTLY. In fact my hands were sore when I got home. My faith is unfortunately very weak in this bike.

I need to check the run-out on the rear tire.

Other possibility: This bike is relatively new to me with aftermarket straight bars. Maybe I'm pulling the bars a little unbalanced while shifting in hard acceleration (we know that's exciting).

 

[Redbone]

Rode today. High-speed wobble came back slightly once under hard acceleration. Later today coming home from work, it didn't. But I was holding the bars TIGHTLY. In fact my hands were sore when I got home. My faith is unfortunately very weak in this bike.

I need to check the run-out on the rear tire.

Other possibility: This bike is relatively new to me with aftermarket straight bars. Maybe I'm pulling the bars a little unbalanced while shifting in hard acceleration (we know that's exciting).

Have faith, I have mine set pretty well and can ride no handed (throttle lock) while steering with body english. I've had a little more trouble doing this stunt since I've put on radials but I still do not have any wobbles. You'll find the culprit with carefully working through the suggestions made here.
I had more faith in Redbone the more I worked on various issues with her and if there were to have an issue now with a part not tightened properly it would be my fault. I'm good with that thought since I have turned, replaced, upgraded every bolt on this Vmax. I have learned a lot from the guys here and with my own mechanical skills.