How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan switch?

[rusty]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Chill out man (is that a pun?)
I'm not saying a fan thermoswitch or manual fan switch, or a different thermostat won't make a change in coolant temperature. I am sure that it will. I am saying that IMO 90% of the vmaxes on the road do not need to lower the coolant temp with any of these options. Guys see the gauge getting close to the red zone and get nervous, assume something is wrong, and that they need to do something to remedy the "problem" when in reality, the bike is designed to run as hot as it does, the fan is designed to NOT come on until the bike reaches a certain temperature and these temperatures make people nervous because they are high on the gauge. But IMO it does not indicate a problem. It just makes you feel better to see the gauge near the middle than up near the red when sitting in traffic.

If you are actually overheating, boiling over, or the fan will not come on when the gauge is up in the red, that is a different story. .

Sorry Mike,no puns intended.After 2 motors & 80,000 miles.Ive had no over heating problems like boiling over.That switch still makes me feal better when the temp starts going up.Why do some Max's run at lower temp's then others? I noticed this while riding with other Vmax's.

 

[tfranklin]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

I tried it today in a controlled environment, my garage. As noted before it scares the **** out of me to be stuck at a redlight with nowhere to go and watch the gauge just climbing as my legs and face start getting hot. I came in from a ride and let it just sit and idle. It got almost to the red and the fan kicked on, bringing it back down. Couldn't hear it, but I saw it stop when I turned off the switch.

Oh well, I've bought the new thermo switch, don't have it yet. I wouldn't sweat it if I had known it would come back down, but at the time I had no way to know that...

 

[vmaxcruzer]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

It would be nice if it came with a gauge with numbers on it that were accurate. I understand about the red zone it scared the **** out of me the first time I saw it rise. I installed a fan switch that jumps the two wires under the water neck like most and I flick it on sometimes on hot days to help combat the heat if I know I'm gonna sit in traffic, but I don't think its essential. I'm a gadget guy man I had to have it. lol
you may make sure that the drain tube under the radiator is in the correct position. Not sure if it effects much but it has alignment marks for a reason.

 

[rusty]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

I tried it today in a controlled environment, my garage. As noted before it scares the **** out of me to be stuck at a redlight with nowhere to go and watch the gauge just climbing as my legs and face start getting hot. I came in from a ride and let it just sit and idle. It got almost to the red and the fan kicked on, bringing it back down. Couldn't hear it, but I saw it stop when I turned off the switch.

Oh well, I've bought the new thermo switch, don't have it yet. I wouldn't sweat it if I had known it would come back down, but at the time I had no way to know that...

I think u just discribed a normal condition for a Vmax.:biglaugh:

 

[tfranklin]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Well, that's kind of what I figured. :biglaugh: I guess you just gotta see it for yourself, I just like my engines to run a steady temp. When they don't, I freak. I was going to put in new coolant, flush it etc. once the new gadget came in. Today, I just hit the farm roads west of here and took off. It was freakin' 80+ degrees today unk::clapping:

 

[Saml01]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

What I dont like about the Vmax coolant system is the way its designed. There is a hose that runs from the water neck down to the radiator drain knob. In the off position it allows the coolant to bypass the radiator directly into the water pump. If I understand correctly its so that the engine gets up to temp quicker when the thermostat is closed. Plus this circulation helps the water around the thermostat to heat up so it can open eventually. However, when at operating temps it still allows coolant to bypass the radiator. I had an idea to drill some holes in the thermostat to promote coolant flow during warmup, and delete that hose all together.

Should increase cooling efficiency.

Thoughts?

 

[RaWarrior]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Maybe very slightly, but thermostats are there for a reason, as you said to get the motor up to temp faster. You could just remove the thermostat all together and it would in effect be "fully open" at all times if you wanted to I suppose.


I have since installed a "real" temperature gauge on my bike, as in one with a calibrated sensor and numbers, I made a thread about it in the user mods section if you're interested.
Anyway, for poops 'n grins I let the bike run and watched the temperature. With the stock fan switch, the fan didn't click on until nearly 200 degrees. Since it's cold outside, it rapidly fell down to about 170, then it clicked off again.

Manually setting the fan on, it held the temp at ~135. Granted, it's 25 degrees outside. Still, it shows it's better to turn the fan on before the motor gets stinkin' hot, as it will keep it lower. While 200 may well be within "acceptable" range, would you rather run your motor at 200 degrees, or 160(what it runs fan on in the summer)

 

[Diablotin]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

I'm always concerned also when I'm stuck in traffic since the weather here is pretty hot.
If I get stuck too long I'm always worried about overheating.
I'm not concerned while moving but the fan is just sometimes not enough in traffic.

I just wish I could ride without worrying about it.

 

[Heretic]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

I bought the Borg Warner switch (88 Nissan Sentra 1.8L) and love it. My temp gauge seemed to almost get to the red by the time the fan switched on, and at that point the bike ran like crap.

With the new lower temp switch my temp gauge never raises above the half way mark, even idling in traffic on hot 100+ degree summer days. The only bad thing is, once the fan switches on, it seems to never turn off.

I don't want to dick around with switches, I prefer the 'install it and forgot about it' method to solve issues with running hot.

The switch at your local parts store would be a lot cheaper than picking one up at Vmaxoutlaw.

 

[[email protected]]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Just FYI, according to the OEM manual

Thermostat should start to open at 176-183 degrees F
Thermostat should be fully open at 203 degrees F

 

[4gasem]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

In some cases, when you remove the stat, cooling actually suffers. It increases the speed of the coolant which doesn't allow it to sit in the radiator long enough to cool down.

Chris

 

[one2dmax]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

The engine will burn the fuel more efficiently the hotter it gets. But, it will make less HP as it gets hotter too.

Sean

 

[Saml01]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Maybe very slightly, but thermostats are there for a reason, as you said to get the motor up to temp faster. You could just remove the thermostat all together and it would in effect be "fully open" at all times if you wanted to I suppose.


Manually setting the fan on, it held the temp at ~135. Granted, it's 25 degrees outside. Still, it shows it's better to turn the fan on before the motor gets stinkin' hot, as it will keep it lower. While 200 may well be within "acceptable" range, would you rather run your motor at 200 degrees, or 160(what it runs fan on in the summer)

You cant remove the thermostat entirely because the engine will warm up really really slowly and probably run too cool or too hot in cruise depending on the flow.

200 is the normal operating range for an internal combustion engine.

My cars fans turn on at 215, and while driving float around at 200. This is with a huge aluminum radiator too. However, the point of the huge alum radiator was not to decrease cooling temps. Its too keep them where they are under any driving condition.

The temps vary slightly engine to engine im sure, but running it below the normal threshold ***** with the efficiency of the engine to burn fuel. My biggest concern though would be its affects on thermal expansion. If the engine is too cold, its not going to be sealing as well as it should.

Just FYI, according to the OEM manual

Thermostat should start to open at 176-183 degrees F
Thermostat should be fully open at 203 degrees F

Do you by any chance know where 203 is on the gauge?

RaWarrior, this is also your proof that 135 even 160 is too cold.

My car is barely out of warmup enrichments by the time its at 135.

 

[[email protected]]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Do you by any chance know where 203 is on the gauge?

No idea how the gauge correlates with actual numbers.

According to the OEM manual the thermostatic switch that operates the fan is designed to provide continuity between 221 and 208.4 degrees. It is designed to kick the fan on when the temperature rises to 221.05 degrees and turn it off once the temp gets below 208.4 degrees. It goes on to say that there may be instances in which the fan will run until the temperature reaches 198.5 degrees. Doesn't really say why run time may be longer in certain circumstances?

 

[one2dmax]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Most of the time (as long as the gauge is accurate) the fan kicks on where the tiny black dot is (you have to look hard for it).

Sean

 

[Rick52]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

I have been running with a Daytona Water Temp Gage and Manual Switch for about 8 years now. One of my best upgrades. When in traffic and I see 205 F to 210 F I switch the fan on to prevent a Heat Sink. Works Great. Fan doesnt come on untill about 220F without it. I have the peace of mind knowing my actual temp. and addressing it on my terms.

rick rash
#1283

 

[4gasem]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

My SV1000S runs about 189 on average while driving down the road at speed. When I stop it slowly climbs til it hits 220 which is when the fan turns on.

I'm not worried about it on the vmax. They spends hours upon hours testing these things in places we'd never want to ride. I'm sure they're OK.

Chris

 

[Saml01]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Most of the time (as long as the gauge is accurate) the fan kicks on where the tiny black dot is (you have to look hard for it).

Sean

Interesting.

Mine does not turn on at that point, nor have I ever seen it on. Guess thats one more thing to sort out on this thing.

 

[RaWarrior]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

However, I don't really buy Yamaha's temp specs, and here's why.

I have a Yamaha 4 stroke snowmobile, it's essentially a R1 engine with an in-case reduction gear. Anyway, the manual spec is, as noted, also about 200 degrees. The idiot light trips at around 220. The cooling system is 100% stock, no additional coolers or different thermostats.

On a typical groomed trail, what the sled was intended for, it runs around 150-160 degrees. In deep or powdery stuff, it's down to 120-130 as both running board exchangers and the front one are being constantly blasted with snow. To get the "normal specified" 200 degrees, you either have to let it sit and idle for several minutes, or be running it down a road. Even hard, icy conditions won't get it that hot. From what I've found this is extremely typical of all Yammy 4-stroke sleds. In fact, the year after mine in 06, Yamaha added more cooling capacity in the form of a rear exchanger, and for IIRC 08's, even more with an actual radiator and fan. When, if the manual is to be taken as gospel, even my old 3-exchanger system worked "too well".

In fact, my sled runs like ass at 190-200 degrees, or it used to until I fixed it. It has coolant-heated carbs to prevent throttle freezing or fuel icing. At 190+, the carbs would get so hot the fuel would percolate, and it would pop and fart and idle like crap. After installing a carb coolant shutoff valve, it solved that issue.

I don't buy it. :confused2:
My bike runs flawlessly and never, ever exceeds 180 degrees, which was from holding it literally WOT for about 10 minutes. Normally, 160-170 typical riding. Fan in traffic holds it at 180ish. Riding in 50* ambient, it runs around 150.
So either both my sled and bike are miraculously cool running, or Yamaha's specs aren't so realistic.

 

[tfranklin]

Re: How many of you guys bought the temp switch rather than install a manual fan swit

Interesting. Doesn't it matter where you measure the temp? The bike has to be 220 at top temp. It's baking my legs and I can feel it on my face.

Sam, when you say your fan doesn't kick on, it's really, really hard to see on mine. I had to stand there with my eye down the radiator shroud and turn off the key to see it stop spinning. I couldn't hear it or feel it.

Either way, why is it so hard to have the engine get to 185-190 as soon as possible, then just stay there, whether I stop at a red light or not (like most engines do)? Yamaha can design an engine this badass but can't design a cooling system? Or tell me it is cooling properly when it starts to melt before the fan comes on? I enjoy being in total control of my machine, but there are some things (like running the right temperature) that I'd rather not have to control manually.