How much did you pay to paint your bike

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Came with the attached bike too!
Sean

Yep Sean, for that price I insisted they throw in the entire bike with the deal. They went one better and tossed in some kind of warranty - as if you need a warranty on a Yamaha. :biglaugh: If I could have just figured out what kept happening to those darn back tires......maybe I'd of had a warranty problem to turn in. :confused2:

You don't suppose my frame was bent from the factory, do you? Might explain why I couldn't ever get it to go over 150mph and also why they was so happy to part with the bike at the time... :ummm:

OH THOSE BASTIDGS!!! :bang head:
 
Thanx u guys,I had no idea what new paint would coast.Until I saw your prices on here.Sadly the carbon fiber lamination is peeling & getting bleached out from 9 years of Southern California heat.Just about time to make a decision.Paint or Tyga CF,witch would be about the same price as a paint job.I checked Yamaha OEM,way to pricey!!
 
Powder coat/paint question?

Has anyone powder coated parts normally painted? Can it look as good as paint? Can powder coating be buffed out like paint? Info appreciated.
Steve-o
 
Re: Powder coat/paint question?

Powdercoat is too hard to buff out. The front and rear fenders can't be coated since they would melt in the oven.

Sean
 
Re: Powder coat/paint question?

Has anyone powder coated parts normally painted? Can it look as good as paint? Can powder coating be buffed out like paint? Info appreciated.
Steve-o
Ive had good luck with powder coating small metal parts.But it just doesn't look right on large flat pannels.like an airbox cover.
 
Re: Powder coat/paint question?

Ive had good luck with powder coating small metal parts.But it just doesn't look right on large flat pannels.like an airbox cover.


+1
When I still had my paintball shop, I powder coated many a marker. My autococker was coated in "mirror black" it turned out awesome, you could read a yard stick all the way to the end.

A friend of mine wanted his toolbox done in the same color. It looked great but nothing like a good paint job would have looked.
 
Re: Powder coat/paint question?

There are low melt coatings out there but they aren't very durable and it's difficult to get them to coat evenly since the plastic parts can't be static charged like powdercoating metal parts can.
 
Re: Powder coat/paint question?

There are low melt coatings out there but they aren't very durable and it's difficult to get them to coat evenly since the plastic parts can't be static charged like powdercoating metal parts can.

Agree.
This game is not worth its cost and work.

They were using copper paint on plastic to make the powder usable.
I always tought that PC is an grater form of rust prevention - for me regular paint on plastic parts is trhe best solution.
I never liked chrome on plastic too - oem intake manifold covers are **** like hell.
 
Paint prices can be VERY subjectively priced. A REALLY good paint job requires tons of prep work and labor between coats.

Materials for a good one for a bike are usually around $200-300 counting epoxy primers, sealers, basecoats, clears and additives etc.

How much is the guy doing it's time worth? You can get a bad ass paint job for cheap if the guy doing the paint doesn't charge much for his time.

On top of that some times you are paying for "Rep" of the painter, which can help (doesn't guarantee) you get it right the first time and on time....His overhead can also change the equation...

It also matters on how specific your expectations are, if you just "want it painted" or if you expect a "show quality" fiinsh, i.e. no orange peel what so ever and zero mistakes and **** ups to even the most critical eye.

I had
Rear Sport Tail
New Front Fender
New BellyPan
New Tank Cover
Old tank Cover
Swing arm
Rear Pumpkin

The sport tail needed plenty of prep, it had several ****** paint jobs before, and the fiberglass had a lot of imperections once it was bare, and even the brand new "ready to paint" fiberglass fender and belly pan needed a surprising amount of prep to make them ready for a perfect paint job.....

I priced them around at several "legitimate" shops versus back yard painters (not implying that a garage painter can't do excellent work, some can and do, but not knowing anyone who did I wasn't taking any chances) I did get a qoute from one "garage" painter for $400, but I'd seen his work and while it was "good" it wasn't perfect.....

I told them I wanted a soild color, 3 part system base coat, mid coat and clear coat, using the correct epoxy primer and the correct additives to keep the flexible parts from losing adhesion or cracking...I had already picked the color and more specifically the exact paint brand and code, and included that in my request.....
That I expected it to be correctly sanded between coats and fully buffed when complete, and that I would accept no orange peel, drips, runs or trash in the paint...

(I am amazed at how many painters will call and say it's ready, and when you go to check it's full of mistakes and simple "trash and dirt" in the paint, been there and done that too many times in the past, these motherfuckers are plain blind sometimes, or just hoping you won't notice; THAT is my biggest bitch about most paint shops............. quality is so subjective they'll think it looks fantastic when really it has plentiful flaws in it) .........

I expected it to be perfect...By making these statements I knew I was driving the price up.........you can just say "paint it" and hope for the best, but once it's painted and you're not happy good luck getting your parts back without paying, or worse yet getting them to "fix it" when they are really not capable of doing the quality work you desire....

I got quotes from $1200 to $2000 bucks;...........

Ended up getting it done for $1700......by a guy I KNEW would get it right, had seen plenty of his work and he had the same expectations in quality that I did, one of those guys who refuse to do a "quick" paint job because he didn't want his shops name associated with it.............................I know I could have gotten it for less, and possibly as good as quality for less, but I've spent too much time and angst trying to get paint work correct in the past, or waited MONTHS to get it finshed...I did not want to go through that again.....I paid probably more for the name than the paint job...Not cause it was trendy to have one of his paint jobs but because I knew I would be happy with his work without any hassle or dissapointment.....

As a point of reference a paint job on a car that equals in every way new car quality can be $3000 or more

You may not always get what you pay for; but you will RARELY get MORE than you pay for.......
 
Good paint does cost some coin. The paint job on my chopper was a little over $3000, All that was painted was the tank and both fenders.
The more recent quote for paint on my Vmax (tank, fender, tail, bellypan) was over $2.5K I think it is a good deal as they are the guys to go to for paint.
Before I sold my thunderbird, I was quoted by four shops at over $10k for a new paint job.

I'm thinking now going to a couple of the schools that teach autobody and having the students paint it this winter. It will same me a ton of money, and give some expirence to a kid wanting to go in the business. It might not be absolutely perfect, but I don't need it to be. I've seen some of the student's work in the past, they do a great job.
 
i I LOVE PAINTING ! .. I PLAN ON DOING SOME BIKES AND HELMETS IF I EVER GET TO FLORIDA ! .. :punk:
 
Had a friend paint mine with imron at the marina a couple of years ago,wouldn't take any money. Material cost was still around $200 +, Held up ok, but scratches just like anything else.Would love to learn more about painting small parts.
Steve-o
 
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