I am betting some of you guys know the answer to this...

[Hypocycloid3]

I think it's the top outer race that will come out because you can catch an inner lip to use a drift punch circumferentially-applying taps to it until it unseats. I think it's the bottom outer race that doesn't have much of any lip to catch with the drift punch, that guys either weld a bead to it, to get something to have to pound it out with a punch or chisel, and the heat helps to loosen it, too.

The other method commonly-used is a small disc die grinder to cut the outer bearing race to a point where you can split it fully with a cold chisel.

After removing the outer race, I suggest grinding an 'eyebrow' into the steel of the inside of the steering head, 180 degrees-apart, so you can expose the outer bearing rim seat, to make changing the outer race easier in the future. Realistically, the tapered bearing swap-out will probably last the life of the bike, unless you regularly land hard from wheelies. Still, if you do the grinding, you'll be glad you did when you do the job again.

Thanks but was just showing the races I reused there (with new bearings) to get a second opinions on what I thought was good condition... still trying to chase down an up and down front end shake at 75mph.

 

[Hypocycloid3]

I'd pull the trees and inspect the bearings & races first. Then repack & adjust if they are in perfect condition. Look for notches worn in the races. If that isn't a problem, we'll move on to wheel bearings. Before taking it apart, do the bounce test.
Steve-o

The races (to me) looked to be in perfect condition so I reused them with new bearings new grease etc. *see pix at the end of thread* ... still trying to chase down the 75mph front end shake.

 

[dannymax]

Wonder what would happen if you went back to stock size on your front tire? Reducing the rotating mass might just be the answer.
Or even one size under, if they're available.

 

[sdt354]

I'd ditch those races and put the new ones in. I can't feel them but they look worn in the pic and on their way to being notched.

 

[Hypocycloid3]

I'd ditch those races and put the new ones in. I can't feel them but they look worn in the pic and on their way to being notched.

That was my thought too when I saw those 'stripes' for lack of a better description, but then when I carefully felt them... completely smooth so seems to be discoloration or something. Still will go back in and change them if I cant locate a cause. Sean Morley suggested a couple of things I wanna check first ... including these two fork slides in the 2007 parts fiche

5EB-23125-00-00
5EA-23171-30-00

He says they could cause instability if worn. Anybody else out there have a Max of many miles like mine who have experienced this sort of thing with worn slides?

 

[Hypocycloid3]

Wonder what would happen if you went back to stock size on your front tire? Reducing the rotating mass might just be the answer.
Or even one size under, if they're available.

Been thinking tire also but have run this same size many times prior problem free