Ideas to remove stripped rotor bolts.

[Yamaha_Fan]

I was removing my old rotors and one rotor came off easy, and the other one had 3 screws where the allen heads were stripped, and I tried everything I could think of to get them out. Used an impact driver, tried hammering a bigger allen and also a torx bit in there with no luck.

Next I tried drilling them out and using a screw extractor, and I broke 1 drill bit and 2 extractors off inside the bolts. The only thing I can think of now is to take it somewhere to get the screws machined out.

 

[blaxmax]

Channel locks will probably get a bite on that. Taper is hard to get bit persistence will get it.

 

[maleko89]

I've had good luck with pb blaster and a dead blow hammer

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[DMAN999]

I'd Heat them up with a hand held propane/MAPP torch (to melt the red Loc-titie) then try channel locks or a bigger allen wrench.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

best option for me would be tig a nut on top and undo. The heat from the weld will break the Loctite and then you can just undo them with the welded nut on top. Use some spatter spray on the anodize not to mess it

 

[dannymax]

I have removed them by dremeling a slot for a large conventional screwdriver impact bit, heat them with a propane torch and impact them out.

 

[one2dmax]

best option for me would be tig a nut on top and undo. The heat from the weld will break the Loctite and then you can just undo them with the welded nut on top. Use some spatter spray on the anodize not to mess it

I like this method when the going gets rough

 

[Fire-medic]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-...87&gclid=CMD5oZGGscsCFSkcMgodhg0Ilw&gclsrc=ds

< $6 at Home Depot

I've used the torch & cold chisel method in the past, but welding the nut on-top sounds easiest, assuming you have the equipment, or can have someone weld the nuts for you.

 

[Redbone]

I had 3-4 bolts that wouldn't come out when changing up my rotors. I ended up using a slot cut into the head deep enough to get into the shaft a bit, heat and a reversible impact driver all in a effort to break the bolts hold. Good luck with your efforts.
Here are some more ideas: http://www.spaco.org/MachineShop/StuckFasteners.html

 

[sdt354]

Most rotor bolts get lock- tighted, like mentioned. For anyone that hasn't attempted it yet, heat is your friend. Get them good and hot. Once stripped,and with an extractor stuck, it's machine shop. Unless you have a Tig or Mig welder. Blue lock tight is sufficient for install.

 

[eggohead]

I recommend Heat, or have someone weld something better on the head to get it to break free.. Tons of people have small welders and would help.. of course I don't have one- I use my friends...lol Learned to TIG about 2 years ago.. Not to bad for learning to weld in high school 20+ years ago...

 

[D-Max2012]

As some had already mentioned, cut a groove in the bolt head for a large flat screwdriver, and use a butane torch (low setting).
If you apply the heat to the bolt post hole, it will do 2 things. Heat expansion will cause it to expand just a touch, and it will loosen up the lock tight.

Did mine last season.. Bolts came out with little force on the Allen wrench.

Be sure you have a replacement set of bolts, since yours will be toast.. no pun intended.

You may be able to remove the broken easy-out, using this method also if you can get something that will allow it to turn..

Good luck bud..

 

[Yamaha_Fan]

I already ordered 3 bolts and they should come in the mail today. Last night I tried cutting a slot and using a big flathead, also tried using a chisel to get it to turn with no luck. Welding a nut on is a good idea, didn't think of that. I'm going to talk to a guy I know with a welder and see if I can use it this week.

 

[Redbone]

I replaced my bolts with titanium bolts in my Carrozzeria wheels using the supplied lube from Pro Bolt. I have exercised bolts once in around 2500 miles and they remained torqued properly. Probably not the path most will take but I wanted to dress up the bolts and since my other bolts were longer than the threads on the wheels and thus showing on the inside of the rotor carriers I thought it was only prudent to use titanium. I could of probably used SS but my monkey insisted!:biglaugh:

 

[wildweasel_pt]

If going with the welded nut method i would recommend laying some aluminum foil or tape and just showing the bolt stub so of some spatter goes out doesn't damage the rotors anodize. If the head is sheared just remove rotor by hand and use the protruding stub to weld the nut. I would still impact drive it in order to avoid it to shear at a lower position. But this is a very radical situation. I don't use loctite anymore or just a drop to avoid this in the future. The rotor is going nowhere it's seated in the caliper

 

[blackandblue88]

I had a similar situation and I put a skinny chisel in my impact driver. As I hammered it cut a grove in the bolt head and finally loosened the bolt. It took a long time but I got 3 Philips bolts out that way.


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[Yamaha_Fan]

Got it done today. Welded the nuts onto the bolts, and they came right out. The heat from the welding must have melted the locktite (the nuts were red hot).

Got new rotors and pads on, replaced the wheel bearings and I had already rebuild the forks with Progressive springs and put on a new Shinko Tourmaster 230 front tire, took a short test ride and wow what a difference. Night and day between how the bike rides now and when I got it.

 

[blaxmax]

Got it done today. Welded the nuts onto the bolts, and they came right out. The heat from the welding must have melted the locktite (the nuts were red hot).

Got new rotors and pads on, replaced the wheel bearings and I had already rebuild the forks with Progressive springs and put on a new Shinko Tourmaster 230 front tire, took a short test ride and wow what a difference. Night and day between how the bike rides now and when I got it.

Glad you got it.

 

[DMAN999]

^ Glad to hear you got it worked out.
And I agree 100% on the difference Progressive fork Springs and sticky tires make in the handling on a Vmax.

 

[rdbul]

I got three out with pb blaster and my impact. For the other 3 I took my rear wheel to the shop next to my office. He used an air chisel to work a notch into the head then chip on it radially until they backed out. Good trick, sucks those things are so hard to get moving.