I'm about to throw in the towel :(

[anteva2]

Hi guys ... how are you. I've been fighting wobble for more than three months now. It all started last June when I saw myself inside a very aggressive Shimmi at 200 km / h from which I could get out, I don't know how. Even today I have pain in my wrists from the force that I had to do to keep from going to the ground.

As some of you know, my vmax EURO 2003 changed completely last May, after doing a complete conversion (Vboot kit, exhaust pipes, dyna 3000 and jet to 152.5) which from that moment I started to realize the power of my motorcycle, but the defects of such power also emerged.

The first thing I did was put some progressive springs on the forks (I improved a lot) but the dances were still going on. Later I completely changed the steering bearings, it improved a lot but not enough. The last thing I decided to change were the tires to an Avon Cobra chrome rear (150-90-15) and an Avon Spirit in front (120-70-18)

I have to say that the tires have been perfectly balanced, all the tightening of both the fork and the oscillating arm have been checked, in the latter the condition of the bearing has even been checked. Well, the bike has improved a lot, but even so I can't go beyond 220 km / h without that terrible movement.

I do not want to put elements that are not of stock, for me the Vmax is precious as it is of origin. Which I know what my limitations are. At the moment I want to continue with the standard rear shock, which by the way is at its hardest points (4-4) for a weight of 89 kg.

So I don't know what to do, what to touch or what to look at ... I think the time has come to throw in the towel.


Thank you very much for reading such a novel. Greetings colleagues.

I attach a link so you can see what I'm talking about, look at what happens after 220 km / h (1m 30s)

Any suggestion will be very welcome. Here are the true MASTERS of the VMAX

 

[Parminio]

I'm betting that your steering nut isn't adjusted properly. It has to be torqued, loosened and then retorqued.

Also, did you replace the races when you replaced the bearings? If you didn't, you need to do it all over again.

Have you checked the axle bearings?

 

[anteva2]

I'm betting that your steering nut isn't adjusted properly. It has to be torqued, loosened and then retorqued.

Also, did you replace the races when you replaced the bearings? If you didn't, you need to do it all over again.

Have you checked the axle bearings?

All the modifications are made by my mechanic, he knows the bike a lot, since he was working in the central factory of Yamaha in France for half his life. I don't know if the tracks have been replaced but I trust the mechanic's criteria. Regarding the tightening I know that he called me again after a month to review the tightening. His diagnosis after watching the video is "Welcome to the wobble of the Vmax" according to him that is included in the motorcycle and that he only does it for me from 220 km / h is already fortunate (according to him) since without structural modifications It will be impossible to eliminate or mitigate it ... I know it is not a motorcycle for that speed. But heck !! If I want to go up there, I want to do it safely

 

[anteva2]

Edit ... the ENTIRE SET was changed

Bought by me on Amazon

 

[Fire-medic]

OK, I suggest removing the windshield. Try it 'naked.' See if it's any better.

You're talking about 134 mph there, and the factory USA model top speed is usually quoted as 149 mph. You are at the 90% range of the bike's ultimate performance. Frankly, with its upright seating position, those speeds are going to present an issue. If you really want to see how a VMax can handle, get a 17" or 18" rear wheel/radial tire, and a front radial tire, and see how different the handling is, especially at those speeds. Couple it with more rear-set pegs/controls, and a lower handlebar, and being in the crouch should significantly improve your aero profile, and benefit your handling. None of this is cheap, but it's one way to have a better-handling bike.

 

[02GF74]

Tyre pressures?

When front springs were replaced, I assume the fork oil was too - do you know what weight was used?

I believe the front forks do not need to be pumped with progressive springs.

 

[anteva2]

Tyre pressures?

When front springs were replaced, I assume the fork oil was too - do you know what weight was used?

I believe the front forks do not need to be pumped with progressive springs.

Of course the oil was changed for one of better density. As for the amount, I do not know. Along with the progressive springs was its own oil. Tire pressure is front 2.4 PSI and rear 2.7 PSI

 

[anteva2]

OK, I suggest removing the windshield. Try it 'naked.' See if it's any better.

You're talking about 134 mph there, and the factory USA model top speed is usually quoted as 149 mph. You are at the 90% range of the bike's ultimate performance. Frankly, with its upright seating position, those speeds are going to present an issue. If you really want to see how a VMax can handle, get a 17" or 18" rear wheel/radial tire, and a front radial tire, and see how different the handling is, especially at those speeds. Couple it with more rear-set pegs/controls, and a lower handlebar, and being in the crouch should significantly improve your aero profile, and benefit your handling. None of this is cheap, but it's one way to have a better-handling bike.

You are always so graceful in your responses. I will try to remove the windshield, I doubt that it is aerodynamic, because although I have not previously said this information is important. When my partner and I go on the motorcycle, we reach and exceed 240 km / h without any wobble. On the other hand, when I go alone ... things change radically.

 

[Zeus36]

You state with a passenger, no wobble. The passenger adds extra weight to the rear suspension and rear tire/wheel/bearings/swingarm. That is your clue!

Have you checked/lubed/replaced your swingarm bearings and checked swingarm bearing preload? Have you checked/replaced/lubed your rear wheel bearings? Have your torqued your shock mounts per the manual? Have all brake discs been checked for flatness? Did you check the front and rear wheels for runout? Are they bent? Are they perfectly round? You state you changed the steering bearings, what about all the other bearings?
You say you balanced both tires, but that only accounts for the tire, not the wheel, axle, bearings or brake disc... Sounds strange, but my high speed wobble was due to the rear tire. Changed the tire and no more wobble.

Everyone looks to the font tire, wheel, and forks/trees for wobble... Have you checked your motor mounts? Have you checked the torque of those engine mounts? Harmonics can do interesting things. A passenger would dampen any harmonics to some degree.

Also, since you are running high speeds, recommend going with solid motor mounts (does not change the appearance of the factory look) and frame braces (but braces would not appear stock)

 

[gentsvmax]

Dont you throw in the towel! Man made these machines.......Woman can fix em!
Right?

 

[gentsvmax]

Hi guys ... how are you. I've been fighting wobble for more than three months now. It all started last June when I saw myself inside a very aggressive Shimmi at 200 km / h from which I could get out, I don't know how. Even today I have pain in my wrists from the force that I had to do to keep from going to the ground.

As some of you know, my vmax EURO 2003 changed completely last May, after doing a complete conversion (Vboot kit, exhaust pipes, dyna 3000 and jet to 152.5) which from that moment I started to realize the power of my motorcycle, but the defects of such power also emerged.

The first thing I did was put some progressive springs on the forks (I improved a lot) but the dances were still going on. Later I completely changed the steering bearings, it improved a lot but not enough. The last thing I decided to change were the tires to an Avon Cobra chrome rear (150-90-15) and an Avon Spirit in front (120-70-18)

I have to say that the tires have been perfectly balanced, all the tightening of both the fork and the oscillating arm have been checked, in the latter the condition of the bearing has even been checked. Well, the bike has improved a lot, but even so I can't go beyond 220 km / h without that terrible movement.

I do not want to put elements that are not of stock, for me the Vmax is precious as it is of origin. Which I know what my limitations are. At the moment I want to continue with the standard rear shock, which by the way is at its hardest points (4-4) for a weight of 89 kg.

So I don't know what to do, what to touch or what to look at ... I think the time has come to throw in the towel.


Thank you very much for reading such a novel. Greetings colleagues.

I attach a link so you can see what I'm talking about, look at what happens after 220 km / h (1m 30s)



Any suggestion will be very welcome. Here are the true MASTERS of the VMAX

Dont you throw in the towel! Man made these machines.......Woman can fix em!
Right?

 

[MaxMidnight]

You haven't mentioned that the tyre run-out has been checked. If that is OK and you are absolutely certain that the bearings are torqued down correctly (see attachment) then, as Mr Zeus36 suggests the next place to check is the rear.

Also have a read of this.

One other point...is it really that sensible to be going that fast on public highways, perhaps it's the bike way of suggesting you should slow down?

 

[user 16790]

maybe it's just an illusion of light but it looks like the chrome trim around your speedo is damaged, has the bike been crashed at all, does everything look completely central as you sit on the bike,
I'd try without the screen too

 

[anteva2]

[QUOTE = "Julian Tomkins, publicación: 510568, miembro: 16790"]
tal vez sea solo una ilusión de luz, pero parece que el borde cromado alrededor de su velocímetro está dañado, la bicicleta se ha estrellado, ¿todo se ve completamente central mientras se sienta en la bicicleta?
También lo intentaría sin la pantalla
[/ CITA]

¡Es impresionante ver compañeros que prestan atención al último detalle! No, la motocicleta nunca ha tenido un accidente. Lo peor fue el año pasado, cuando mi esposa se calló aquí en casa por no haber extendido del todo su apoyo lateral. Fue solo unos minutos después de la foto de perfil. No pasó nada, solo la palanca del freno delantero se dobló.

El borde cromado del velocímetro fue un intento de robo de esa parte. Supongo que algún propietario deprimente de un Vmax en mi área ...

 

[anteva2]

[QUOTE = "MaxMidnight, publicación: 510566, miembro: 1102"]
No ha mencionado que se haya verificado el desgaste de los neumáticos. Si eso está bien y está absolutamente seguro de que los rodamientos están apretados correctamente (consulte el anexo), entonces, como sugiere el Sr. Zeus36, el siguiente lugar para verificar es la parte trasera.

También lea esto .

Otro punto ... ¿es realmente tan sensato ir tan rápido en las carreteras públicas, tal vez sea la forma en que la bicicleta sugiere que debe reducir la velocidad? :Rodar los ojos:
[/CITA]

Estimado MaxMidnight. Los neumáticos tienen 90 días, están en perfecto estado, de hecho estoy muy satisfecho con los Avon Tires, nunca me he inclinado tanto como ahora, parecen chicle en la carretera

La lista de verificación para el Sr. Zeus36 ya tiene mi mecánico. de hecho hace unos minutos me llamó para concertar una cita para los próximos días. Tiene que repasar algunos puntos relacionados con los rodamientos, según me acaba de decir.

En cuanto a lo sensato de esas velocidades, tengo que aclarar un par de cosas. La primera es que sé que es imprudente, pero si se dan las circunstancias adecuadas, como una carretera recién inaugurada con asfalto perfecto y casi sin escasez de tráfico ... ¿por qué no? !! Además, que aquellos que nunca lo han hecho, al menos una vez, tiren una piedra.

 

[RadiumPHX]

Just an FYI concerning recovering from a speed wobble. It all about shifting your weight forward and down, so lay down forward on the tank and then ease off the throttle. I know this can be scary and your first instinct is to hold the bars trying to stop the wobble, easy grip and let the bars move. Don't touch the brakes, just ease off.

 

[anteva2]

[QUOTE = "Zeus36, publicación: 510559, miembro: 13675"]
Dices con un pasajero, sin bamboleo. El pasajero agrega peso adicional a la suspensión trasera y al neumático / rueda / cojinetes / basculante traseros. ¡Esa es tu pista!

¿Ha revisado / lubricado / reemplazado los cojinetes del basculante y comprobado la precarga de los cojinetes del basculante? ¿Ha revisado / reemplazado / lubricado los cojinetes de las ruedas traseras? ¿Ha apretado sus amortiguadores según el manual? ¿Se ha comprobado la planitud de todos los discos de freno? ¿Revisó si las ruedas delanteras y traseras estaban descentradas? ¿Están doblados? ¿Son perfectamente redondos? Dice que cambió los cojinetes de la dirección, ¿qué pasa con todos los demás cojinetes?
Dices que equilibraste ambos neumáticos, pero eso solo tiene en cuenta el neumático, no la rueda, el eje, los cojinetes o el disco de freno ... Suena extraño, pero mi bamboleo a alta velocidad se debió al neumático trasero. Cambiado el neumático y no más bamboleo.

Todos miran el neumático de la fuente, la rueda y las horquillas / árboles para ver si se bambolea ... ¿Ha revisado los soportes de su motor? ¿Ha comprobado el par de esos soportes del motor? Los armónicos pueden hacer cosas interesantes. Un pasajero amortiguaría los armónicos hasta cierto punto.

Además, dado que está ejecutando altas velocidades, recomiende usar soportes de motor sólidos (no cambia la apariencia del aspecto de fábrica) y tirantes del marco (pero los tirantes no aparecerían de serie)
[/CITA]

Estimado Sr. Zeus 36 No se imagina cuánto aprecio la lista que acaba de proporcionar. Se lo acabo de pasar a mi mecánico y me llamó para concertar una cita para hacer más controles, especialmente en lo que respecta al centrado de las ruedas y los cojinetes de los ejes de las ruedas, aparentemente esos puntos no han sido revisados.

Te aseguro que te mantendré informado de los avances. Esperemos ver la evolución.

Entonces tengo una pregunta. Si mi mecánico me dice que este movimiento es absolutamente NORMAL a 220 km / h viajando solo y que este movimiento es más que conocido entre toda la comunidad de Vmax… tengo que interpretar que el mío es normal o no normal? ¿Quizás es demasiado fuerte para lo normal? ¿Cuánto bamboleo es normal?

Todas las búsquedas aceptan la oscilación de la muerte del Vmax como "normal" a ciertas velocidades. ¿Hasta qué punto se puede considerar que sin tocar nada estructural este resultado es el máximo que se puede lograr?

 

[anteva2]

[QUOTE = "gentsvmax, publicación: 510564, miembro: 8990"]
¡No tires la toalla! El hombre hizo estas máquinas ... ¡La mujer puede arreglarlas!
¿Derecha?
[/CITA]

¡¡Por supuesto no!!

De hecho, es mi esposa con tan solo 50 kilos de ella que cuando va conmigo, resuelve cualquier tipo de bamboleo !!!

 

[ouchez]

Hi guys ... how are you. I've been fighting wobble for more than three months now. It all started last June when I saw myself inside a very aggressive Shimmi at 200 km / h from which I could get out, I don't know how. Even today I have pain in my wrists from the force that I had to do to keep from going to the ground.

As some of you know, my vmax EURO 2003 changed completely last May, after doing a complete conversion (Vboot kit, exhaust pipes, dyna 3000 and jet to 152.5) which from that moment I started to realize the power of my motorcycle, but the defects of such power also emerged.

The first thing I did was put some progressive springs on the forks (I improved a lot) but the dances were still going on. Later I completely changed the steering bearings, it improved a lot but not enough. The last thing I decided to change were the tires to an Avon Cobra chrome rear (150-90-15) and an Avon Spirit in front (120-70-18)

I have to say that the tires have been perfectly balanced, all the tightening of both the fork and the oscillating arm have been checked, in the latter the condition of the bearing has even been checked. Well, the bike has improved a lot, but even so I can't go beyond 220 km / h without that terrible movement.

I do not want to put elements that are not of stock, for me the Vmax is precious as it is of origin. Which I know what my limitations are. At the moment I want to continue with the standard rear shock, which by the way is at its hardest points (4-4) for a weight of 89 kg.

So I don't know what to do, what to touch or what to look at ... I think the time has come to throw in the towel.


Thank you very much for reading such a novel. Greetings colleagues.

I attach a link so you can see what I'm talking about, look at what happens after 220 km / h (1m 30s)



Any suggestion will be very welcome. Here are the true MASTERS of the VMAX

When my 05 was new and I had 1000 miles on it the wobble started, I followed Morleys instructions on Y-Tube to tighten the bearings and that fixed it, and I do it at the start of every riding season. I don't drive at 132 though.

 

[Screwloose]

maybe it's just an illusion of light but it looks like the chrome trim around your speedo is damaged, has the bike been crashed at all, does everything look completely central as you sit on the bike,
I'd try without the screen too

I was just about to mention front forks alignment and thought you would need to knock them out in some way, then you noticed the chrome trim maybe damaged.

There is a quick and accurate way to check your front forks alignment, get a piece of glass and put it across the forks, if it wobbles on any of the four corners then your forks have been knocked out of alignment. This method was passed on from an old ancient biker in Gloucestershire. It works for me.

Still do not discount the rear shock's, they give that type of wobble, on another bike mine went wobbly at 125 MPH +. I slammed the brakes on and maybe that is why I had such a bad time trying to get to a stop. But it does look like uneven back shocky's the same as I had on a big Kawasaki.