Integrated CBR LED Tail Light Mounting

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Thank you for the pic, this makes more sense now!!! I was wondering about the white light that is required in Michigan for the plate. I was thinking either the plate bolt lights or a small LED stip glued to the bottom of the CBR unit.
 
Hello and Happy New Year everyone!!! So I just ordered the CBR Clear for my 1994 MAX (super exited) I have read this post about 100 times and I have the basic understanding of what needs to be done, but I am not an electrician and I am wondering about adding the additional 4-6 inches to the "resistor" that I need to plug in between the light and the bike. Do I need to add the Ezra wire between the light and the resistor or between the resistor and the bike plugs? Another thing is I don't think the light(Honda) has the same connectors as the Yamaha wires, and I do not want to cut any factory wires, so what size/style connector do I need to buy to add to the Honda wires? Thanks guys and I will keep you posted....
 
Hello and Happy New Year everyone!!! So I just ordered the CBR Clear for my 1994 MAX (super exited) I have read this post about 100 times and I have the basic understanding of what needs to be done, but I am not an electrician and I am wondering about adding the additional 4-6 inches to the "resistor" that I need to plug in between the light and the bike. Do I need to add the Ezra wire between the light and the resistor or between the resistor and the bike plugs? Another thing is I don't think the light(Honda) has the same connectors as the Yamaha wires, and I do not want to cut any factory wires, so what size/style connector do I need to buy to add to the Honda wires? Thanks guys and I will keep you posted....

doesn't matter which side of the resistor for the extra wire. choose a side that makes storage/hiding of the resistors easier. as far as the connectors, if memory serves me well, the bike's connectors are simple "bullet/sockets" of which you can find at any home improvement, auto parts, or super center stores. the connectors are usually sold in variety packs, so finding the proper diameter shouldn't be an issue. i think the honda light has slightly smaller gauged wires, but that's not a problem cause the three popular (red, blue, yellow) each are compatible to a range of gauges. you may be forced to have to pick a connector solely based on the diameter of the socket or bullet. if so, either 1) strip off some extra insulation from off of the wire and double up the exposed wire by folding it over onto itself so that the crimp will hold, or 2) pull off some of the extraneous strands so that you are able to shove the leftovers into the crimp chamber (we're talking relatively small amounts of current, so removing strands won't hamper the electrons' path :) ).

[edit]
just realized that i assumed you would want crimp-style connectors...of course if you go with solder.
[/edit]

you'll be fine. good luck and happy modding.
 
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Thank you for the vote of confidence Ninja.. This will be a first for me, I usually turn wrenches, so I am going to take it nice and slow and take pics (in case I have to undo). I will have to get the light and resistor in my hand before I do anything, but it seems like Motodynamic would pair the two together with matting connectors in order to prevent errors. I have never soldered before, is it much better than bullet connectors?
 
soldering does provides a more reliable, more solid connection. BUT, and i empahisize "but", now that i think about it, i strongly urge against soldering because there will come a time when you'll want to disconnect the tail from the bike, for example, changing out sissy, and you won't be able to without cutting the solder joints. anyways for the job we're talking about, the perceived benefits of soldering won't really be realized. if we were talking about a higher current circuit like the charging system, then soldering would be beneficial. no, stick with the quick connects. i regret even bringing up talk of soldering, hehehe.

some guys report that they didnt get a resistor pack with their light, but i believe they were under strange circumstances..maybe eBay special, dunno. i got the resistor pack with mine and to the best if my recollection i can agree with you that the light-to-resistor connection was properly mated by the manufacturer. it's the resistor-to-bike connection that you'll have to customize.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
soldering does provides a more reliable, more solid connection. BUT, and i empahisize "but", now that i think about it, i strongly urge against soldering because there will come a time when you'll want to disconnect the tail from the bike, for example, changing out sissy, and you won't be able to without cutting the solder joints. anyways for the job we're talking about, the perceived benefits of soldering won't really be realized. if we were talking about a higher current circuit like the charging system, then soldering would be beneficial. no, stick with the quick connects. i regret even bringing up talk of soldering, hehehe.

some guys report that they didnt get a resistor pack with their light, but i believe they were under strange circumstances..maybe eBay special, dunno. i got the resistor pack with mine and to the best if my recollection i can agree with you that the light-to-resistor connection was properly mated by the manufacturer. it's the resistor-to-bike connection that you'll have to customize.

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
+1, I'm regretting on soldering my grab bar tail/ brake light with my fender mounted tail/ brake light. I'm going have to break those solder connections to remove the fender.
 
I find terminals that mate to OEM connectors then crimp and solder them to my new wiring. I've done a few electrical mods since I've owned the bike (signals, relays, tail lights, grab bar lights, home made vboost switch, digital speedo w/volts, temp, rpm, oil pressure, etc.... The only time I've ever cut an OEM wire was to install diodes on the turn signal wires. I could have gone about it in a different manner and not cut anything but, it turned out to be pretty clean this way and would be very easy to revert if needed.
 
OK So I finally got the Motodynamic light, and I am trying to figure things out.
1) is this how the resistor is placed (YELLOW to YELLOW & BLUE to BLUE)
2) Where would I splice in the 4"-6" extension, at these bullet connectors?
3) does the Yamaha have the same RED/WHITE/BLACK connector pictured in the center or the YELLOW & BLUE bullet connectors here?

Thanks in advance...
 

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1) yep
2) it doesnt matter where you put in extensions, pick a side, any side, what ever side makes it easy for you store. the current draw will absolutely be the same no matter where you extend
3) look at post #21. i posted a wire connection chart

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 

This will work, I have to start the disassembly of my bike to figure out the connections, but I am assuming bullet connectors, not Honda's pin connector. Does anyone know, are all the male/female bullets on our bikes the same size? Thinking I will take in a rear blinker to the store match up the size for all the other connectors I will need to switch over...
 
This is a great idea guys, I like this look way better than anything else ive seen. im gonna buy one of these lights tonight. this thred is gonna make the mod a snap!
 
Got the light all mounted, it looks; and works as good as you all have posted! Thanks for the great idea guys!
 
Pics man, PICS!!!!


I am adding a clear/ red led running lite and brake light combo where the rear reflector is, just waiting for that light to get here and I can get the bike completely put back together. I will throw some pics up then. My design is slightly different than the others on here, but with the same basic idea.
 
Just picked me up one of these and will be installing it. If I recall right, I need to make sure I've got additional resistors in the front as well since I have LED's up there as well so that the flash rate is correct.
 
I still have not received my tail light in replace for the rear reflector, so here are the pics for what I have done so far, and it works great! I cut the inner fender and welded and new end to it, I then made two cuts in it to make the bend for the correct angle of the rear section on the fender, included a license bracket so the whole thing, light and license is bolt on bolt off just like factory.
 

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Nicely done jims-max! I just got my CBR light delivered today and I think I am going to re-vamp my install plan. I like how yours turned out and it will make any future work significantly easier.
 
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