Is Crimp Fix Needed?

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thundermax

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Have a 2005. Is the crimp fix still needed on this year or later? Hear Yamaha fixed a lot of things but don't know if they fixed this one. Don't really seem to have any electrical issues. Have my seat off and thought if need be I'd do it. Thanks!
 
I would perform the crimp fix if it were mine. Your bike is still new and the adverse effects of humidity, and corrosion have not surfaced yet. Go to the how to section and look up electrical by RA Warrior. Follow the instructions as time permits, lucky for you, with a new bike you can take your time.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108 try this short cut
 
"Have a 2005. Is the crimp fix still needed on this year or later? Hear Yamaha fixed a lot of things but don't know if they fixed this one. Don't really seem to have any electrical issues. Have my seat off and thought if need be I'd do it. Thanks!"
As far as I know, Yamaha did nothing to address this "crimp" issue - which is only one small part of a larger deficiency - a so-so charging system.
I did the crimp fix shortly after purchasing my bike in 03. I do remember that it did make a measurable difference in charging voltage, maybe .5 volt at most.
What many folks have done to improve their charging voltage, which is probably just as easy to do as the crimp fix, is to unplug the oem RR connectors (behind the left hand side cover), and run new wires for both the ground and positive. The black ground wire goes to a good engine location (I used a bolt on top of the middle gear cover), while the red positive wire goes directly to the positive battery terminal. A 30 amp in-line fuse is spliced into this new wire. This modification bypasses the crimp location entirely, as well as two connectors and the main fuse, so that more "juice" reaches the battery for charging.
However, if you are having no problems with your bike (read Rawarrior's excellent stickie re charging issues, and check your own voltages ), I would suggest just taking all your bike's electrical connectors apart and coating them with di-electric grease, in particular the three-wire stator connector, which is noted for shorting out and corroding.
Cheers!
 
Do it. It's simple. There is no cost really, and no down sides. It's just a quality upgrade.
 
Even better, as I detailed in my tutorial, is to just bypass it altogether. Run the output wires of the R/R directly to the battery and skip the harness altogether.
 
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