Is my bike weak, or is it an issue of legend??

[MBreinin]

Some of you know I am new to the V-Max world. I have had mine about three weeks. I know it is not perfectly tuned. It is definitely rich as it has stock exhaust on it now and it was wearing a Kerker before (I wish the former owner had kept the damn exhaust, but I digress). I do not think it was re-jetted when the stock pipes were put on. I am putting on some Super-Trapps tomorrow, but I don't expect any leaning out or performance gain...just noise.

I removed the Y in an effort to get more noise from the carbs and hoping some more air as well.

Now, I think the bike is quick, but it does not pull any of the stunts that V-Maxes seem so popular for.

For example, I can go WFO in first gear from a slow roll and I have no traction issues or unintended wheelies, it just hooks and books. I would have to purposely make the bike break traction, and I have never done that.

I certainly don't have any traction issues in THIRD like some of the period road tests claimed!

I really wish I knew someone else with a known good running Max so I could compare.

I wonder if this is a carb tuning issue?

Oh, also...how do you adjust the idle? Mine is pounding out at a solid 1500 rpm when it is warmed up.

Just curious!

Thanks,

Mike

 

[maxcruiser]

Some of you know I am new to the V-Max world. I have had mine about three weeks. I know it is not perfectly tuned. It is definitely rich as it has stock exhaust on it now and it was wearing a Kerker before (I wish the former owner had kept the damn exhaust, but I digress). I do not think it was re-jetted when the stock pipes were put on. I am putting on some Super-Trapps tomorrow, but I don't expect any leaning out or performance gain...just noise.

I removed the Y in an effort to get more noise from the carbs and hoping some more air as well.

Now, I think the bike is quick, but it does not pull any of the stunts that V-Maxes seem so popular for.

For example, I can go WFO in first gear from a slow roll and I have no traction issues or unintended wheelies, it just hooks and books. I would have to purposely make the bike break traction, and I have never done that.

I certainly don't have any traction issues in THIRD like some of the period road tests claimed!

I really wish I knew someone else with a known good running Max so I could compare.

I wonder if this is a carb tuning issue?

Oh, also...how do you adjust the idle? Mine is pounding out at a solid 1500 rpm when it is warmed up.

Just curious!

Thanks,

Mike

See pic for where the idle adjust screw is - should be idling when warm at 1100rpm

What is your gas mileage? What do the plugs look like?
What are your air/fuel screws set at? This will help figure out if your running rich.

Even when my new bike was stock - on a good launch, it should pull hard right from idle to redline

 

[82ndCowboy]

Here's a pic from the online manual.
Not the greatest. But the line points to the adjustment knob for the idle.

 

[COP RUNNER]

I HAVE AN "06" WITH 2,800 MILES ON IT , BONE STOCK PERFORMANCE WISE , I HAVE HAD IT BREAK TRACKTION FROM A 10-20 MPH ROLL,NOT A BURN JUST SPIN A LITTLE,NEVER TOUCHING THE CLUTCH, ALSO IF YOUR RIDING AT 10-20 MPH IN FIRST GEAR & YOU GO WOT, & THE TIRE GRABS, THE FRONT END COMES UP, NOT SO FAST THAT YOU CANT CATCH-IT , BUT COMES UP NO PROBLEM !!! DID I SAY BONE STOCK !!!!

 

[MBreinin]

Well, let me clarify.

It runs strong from idle to redline.

It feels pretty damn quick.

However, it will not blow the tire out on a full roll on. Nor have I felt the front end come up. These are things I just "expected" of this bike after reading posts on boards and magazine articles.

I am 175 pounds and I do have a tendency to lay down when I roll into it. But, if anything, that should unload the rear tire some and cause wheelspin.

I have NO CLUE how the carbs are adjusted. I have no experience messing with bike carbs. My carb experience is limited to Carter, Rochester and Holley 4 barrel carbs. I have been tempted to dig around, but I don't want my bike to run badly, or not at all, after I mess around with the carbs.

How many of you can just blow the tire out on a near stock bike by just cranking the throttle open from a slow roll?

Mike

 

[82ndCowboy]

ALSO IF YOUR RIDING AT 10-20 MPH IN FIRST GEAR & YOU GO WOT,& THE TIRE GRABS, THE FRONT END COMES UP NO PROBLEM !!! DID I SAY BONE STOCK !!!!

I did that ONCE!

 

[QuarterHorse]

My bike isn't stock, but in 1st gear I usually just haze the back tire, along with tagging 2nd it just spins. It has caught a couple times and the front tire saw 11 o-clock and scared the mud out of me, but that was hitting second gear. Third gear it's usually hooked up and floats the front tire 3-6 inches off the ground. FWIW I weight 280lbs.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Some of you know I am new to the V-Max world. I have had mine about three weeks. I know it is not perfectly tuned. It is definitely rich as it has stock exhaust on it now and it was wearing a Kerker before (I wish the former owner had kept the damn exhaust, but I digress). I do not think it was re-jetted when the stock pipes were put on. I am putting on some Super-Trapps tomorrow, but I don't expect any leaning out or performance gain...just noise.

I removed the Y in an effort to get more noise from the carbs and hoping some more air as well.

Now, I think the bike is quick, but it does not pull any of the stunts that V-Maxes seem so popular for.

For example, I can go WFO in first gear from a slow roll and I have no traction issues or unintended wheelies, it just hooks and books. I would have to purposely make the bike break traction, and I have never done that.

I certainly don't have any traction issues in THIRD like some of the period road tests claimed!

I really wish I knew someone else with a known good running Max so I could compare.

I wonder if this is a carb tuning issue?

Oh, also...how do you adjust the idle? Mine is pounding out at a solid 1500 rpm when it is warmed up.

Just curious!

Thanks,

Mike

If you have pulled the Y and haven't done anything to the carbs in the way of any of the jets, put the Y back on. The air box is sort of restrictive but works properly for the stock system. Opening the air box without modifying the carbs is not a good plan for the VMax and you will lose HP not gain. Put it back to stock and try it again.

 

[MBreinin]

If you have pulled the Y and haven't done anything to the carbs in the way of any of the jets, put the Y back on. The air box is sort of restrictive but works properly for the stock system. Opening the air box without modifying the carbs is not a good plan for the VMax and you will lose HP not gain. Put it back to stock and try it again.

I pulled it because the jetting was not stock, but aside from a K&N filter...everything else was. It had been jetted for a Kerker pipe. You can smell that it is rich when it is idling. I thought maybe with the Y pulled it would lean out a bit.

I guess I need to attend to the carbs. Should just go ahead and grab that Morley Muscle kit. That looks like a winner.

Mike

 

[ZRX/V-MAX]

I think part of this is that the Max legend was forged back in the mid 80's.

Then the Max has pretty much just stood still while the rest of the world caught up and passed it, performance
wise.


It was a really big deal back in the day, not so much now.

 

[4gasem]

I pulled it because the jetting was not stock, but aside from a K&N filter...everything else was. It had been jetted for a Kerker pipe. You can smell that it is rich when it is idling. I thought maybe with the Y pulled it would lean out a bit.

I guess I need to attend to the carbs. Should just go ahead and grab that Morley Muscle kit. That looks like a winner.

Mike

Yep! You need to pull the carbs and look at putting a 152.5 or 155 main in it if it isn't already. Are the brass plugs removed from the side of the carb near the diaphragms? If so then it has probably been fiddled with. I would have just bought a 4-1 Kerker and installed it! :banana:

Pull the carbs.

 

[MBreinin]

Yep! You need to pull the carbs and look at putting a 152.5 or 155 main in it if it isn't already. Are the brass plugs removed from the side of the carb near the diaphragms? If so then it has probably been fiddled with. I would have just bought a 4-1 Kerker and installed it! :banana:

Pull the carbs.

Honestly I don't know. I don't even know where the brass plugs are to look. I am really leary of messing with four carbs as it is so easy to make things worse when you don't know what the hell you are doing.

Yeah, I thought about the Kerker...I just didn't want to spend $800 at this point. In the end, I may end up going in that direction though.

Mike

 

[hubeerjw]

Yeah, I thought about the Kerker...I just didn't want to spend $800 at this point. In the end, I may end up going in that direction though.

Mike



Mike,
I got my Kerker for $650, I think. I'm not sure what shipping would be (probably $50) but look around and you should be able to get a better deal than $800. Also, if you sell your stock set, you can get a few hundred depending on their condidtion. Money well spent if you ask me!

Jeff

 

[shawn kloker]

Well, let me clarify.

It runs strong from idle to redline.

It feels pretty damn quick.

However, it will not blow the tire out on a full roll on. Nor have I felt the front end come up. These are things I just "expected" of this bike after reading posts on boards and magazine articles.

I am 175 pounds and I do have a tendency to lay down when I roll into it. But, if anything, that should unload the rear tire some and cause wheelspin.

I have NO CLUE how the carbs are adjusted. I have no experience messing with bike carbs. My carb experience is limited to Carter, Rochester and Holley 4 barrel carbs. I have been tempted to dig around, but I don't want my bike to run badly, or not at all, after I mess around with the carbs.

How many of you can just blow the tire out on a near stock bike by just cranking the throttle open from a slow roll?

Mike

My guess is that since you are only 175lbs that it is smoking the tire and you do not know it.Put somebody on the back and it will start to get some traction and wheelie.

 

[shawn kloker]

Some of you know I am new to the V-Max world. I have had mine about three weeks. I know it is not perfectly tuned. It is definitely rich as it has stock exhaust on it now and it was wearing a Kerker before (I wish the former owner had kept the damn exhaust, but I digress). I do not think it was re-jetted when the stock pipes were put on. I am putting on some Super-Trapps tomorrow, but I don't expect any leaning out or performance gain...just noise.

I removed the Y in an effort to get more noise from the carbs and hoping some more air as well.

Now, I think the bike is quick, but it does not pull any of the stunts that V-Maxes seem so popular for.

For example, I can go WFO in first gear from a slow roll and I have no traction issues or unintended wheelies, it just hooks and books. I would have to purposely make the bike break traction, and I have never done that.

I certainly don't have any traction issues in THIRD like some of the period road tests claimed!

I really wish I knew someone else with a known good running Max so I could compare.

I wonder if this is a carb tuning issue?

Oh, also...how do you adjust the idle? Mine is pounding out at a solid 1500 rpm when it is warmed up.

Just curious!

Thanks,

Mike

I am also guessing that this bike is losing power from being out of sync.They can really lose power and run like shit(idle funny) when they are out.All 4 cylinders are not working together(equally)to get the most out of it.One cylinder or two could be carrying all the load while just dragging the others behind them.
Anyone with a bike needs to buy a synchronizer and learn how to use them.I check mine at least every 2 weeks during the riding season and every time the carbs have been off.

 

[MBreinin]

I am also guessing that this bike is losing power from being out of sync.They can really lose power and run like shit(idle funny) when they are out.All 4 cylinders are not working together(equally)to get the most out of it.One cylinder or two could be carrying all the load while just dragging the others behind them.
Anyone with a bike needs to buy a synchronizer and learn how to use them.I check mine at least every 2 weeks during the riding season and every time the carbs have been off.

Which synchronizer do you suggest? How difficult is it to synch the carbs?

Mike

 

[MBreinin]

My guess is that since you are only 175lbs that it is smoking the tire and you do not know it.Put somebody on the back and it will start to get some traction and wheelie.

Well, unless my second gear "clutch slippage" is in fact me hosing the tire, I have not experienced anything that would indicate to me that it is losing traction. I have been driving and racing fast cars long enough to know the sensation of lost traction in a car, but perhaps I am missing it on the bike. Honestly, I could be blowing out the tire in second, but I am not feeling it.

Mike

 

[4gasem]

Which synchronizer do you suggest? How difficult is it to synch the carbs?

Mike

Any motion pro or 4 bank will work.

Some here have made their own 2 bank setups and are happy with them...:thumbs up:

 

[hubeerjw]

I got the carbtune II and it seems to work just fine. It is fairly straight forward to do. Do a quick search on the forum for carb sync and you should be good to go. It may take you an hour or so to do it your first time, but with most things, the easier it gets the more you do it. I didn't realize the amount of slipping the tire has until I went from decent tread to showing chords in a matter of days! If you have a chance to get to the drag strip on a sticky track you will notice a big difference in traction, it will also help to tell you if you bike is underpowered as well.
Jeff

 

[QuarterHorse]

Here's a link to my home made carb sync tool.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=2111