Is my bike weak, or is it an issue of legend??
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stock 2006 max carbs never been adjusted and probably wont for a while..first gear roll on,,,,, eather ill get some wheel spin then grab then just before red line front tire lifts of ground...or it just grabs and pulls front tire up before red line..second gear starting at a little higher rev say 5000 same as first gear.... little clutch action and it smokes rear tire and front wheel is at 11 oclock...you cant beat the stock jetting and stock pipes for street riding....owned a lot of bikes through the years once you start playing with the carbs airbox and pipes your gains for the most part are in the higher rpm..unless your drag racing a good running stocker with all its torque packed down lower in the rpm will kick its ass in the street...ok thats my rant thanks for listening......ps anyone in the boston area who wants to put this theory to the test let me know..coffee will be on me....
Tom_Owens
Well-Known Member
However, it will not blow the tire out on a full roll on. Nor have I felt the front end come up. These are things I just "expected" of this bike after reading posts on boards and magazine articles.
I am 175 pounds and I do have a tendency to lay down when I roll into it. But, if anything, that should unload the rear tire some and cause wheelspin.
A) What year is your Max?
B) How many miles are on it?
I'm thinking it could be your suspension. To wit: The softer a suspension is, the better grip you're going to get, so you're NOT going to lay down rubber or bring the front tire up because the soft suspension is going to absorb the torque.
Double check that: The suspension settings, that is. I have a 2007, and I'm here to tell you I can yank it off the ground through 3 gears, and the ass end gets REAL squirrely when hammering it. (The back tire is breaking lose a bit under power.)
All the best,
Tom
I am 175 pounds and I do have a tendency to lay down when I roll into it. But, if anything, that should unload the rear tire some and cause wheelspin.
A) What year is your Max?
B) How many miles are on it?
I'm thinking it could be your suspension. To wit: The softer a suspension is, the better grip you're going to get, so you're NOT going to lay down rubber or bring the front tire up because the soft suspension is going to absorb the torque.
Double check that: The suspension settings, that is. I have a 2007, and I'm here to tell you I can yank it off the ground through 3 gears, and the ass end gets REAL squirrely when hammering it. (The back tire is breaking lose a bit under power.)
All the best,
Tom
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I would really like to put your theory to the test!
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Better build 4 of them.I think it is way easier to sync them when you can watch all 4 at once.
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
I've had zero issues with it. It took a little time to get it done the first time, but I have it down to a science now. I also don't have squat in it.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
You know what you are doing though.
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
Barely!?!?!? 
MBreinin
Well-Known Member
Ok, I see I have some new responses!
I was off reading every post I could get my hands on about synchronizing the carbs. I think I can do it rather easily with the home brew kit. I want one of those CarbTune Pros, but I will have to order that. I also have a service manual, which I actually opened, so now I can see where the relevant adjustment screws are. :biglaugh:
Moving on. My bike has had the front forks done with Progressive springs and the rear shocks are new stockers. I have the top adjustment set soft, as in set on one, as the roads down here are terrible and the ride can be very jarring for me.
My bike is an '85 and it has just under 25k on it. I think it is due for a valve adjustment as they are making some noise.
I also have a clutch slipping issue that comes and goes. I am hoping it is the result of the synth oil that was in the bike and I am doing a second oil dump tomorrow, hopefully with a filter if I can find one locally.
All of these factors could certainly add up for sure. The bike is quick, but I think it needs attention to be right.
Mike
I was off reading every post I could get my hands on about synchronizing the carbs. I think I can do it rather easily with the home brew kit. I want one of those CarbTune Pros, but I will have to order that. I also have a service manual, which I actually opened, so now I can see where the relevant adjustment screws are. :biglaugh:
Moving on. My bike has had the front forks done with Progressive springs and the rear shocks are new stockers. I have the top adjustment set soft, as in set on one, as the roads down here are terrible and the ride can be very jarring for me.
My bike is an '85 and it has just under 25k on it. I think it is due for a valve adjustment as they are making some noise.
I also have a clutch slipping issue that comes and goes. I am hoping it is the result of the synth oil that was in the bike and I am doing a second oil dump tomorrow, hopefully with a filter if I can find one locally.
All of these factors could certainly add up for sure. The bike is quick, but I think it needs attention to be right.
Mike
Tom_Owens
Well-Known Member
That post just answered all of your problems.
All the best,
Tom
All the best,
Tom
MBreinin
Well-Known Member
Well, I will be messing around with it tomorrow and I am going to see if it will light it up.
Either way, it is a fun bike. I just want the "full experience" :biglaugh:
Mike
:eusa_dance: your my kind of guy
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
When I bought my motion pro mercury sticks it was $35 delivered from U/Motors.
Seems like now mercury is no longer available.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I have 2 different 130 C.I. harleys around here that I plan on racing after it warms up.The one guy said his will do 140mph on the highway.:th_love031:
few teeth down in the back it should do 140...i dont think your worried about that...if hes tuned right you will have to down shift a gear or two ..if starting at highway speeds
MBreinin
Well-Known Member
It is fine. Good idea though!
I was under the impression from the manual, on the stock rear shocks, that the #1 setting was the stiffer rebound dampening and the #4 was the Softer.
At least that how I read it!
Not pickin on ya... Just saying I think #1 is the stiffest and #4 is the softest.
