There's a method of aligning your wheels using an elastic string, or one w/a lot of stretch, like surveyor's string, the bright-colored nylon twine that is used to lay-out form work for concrete. You put the string about a foot off the ground & loop it between the front & rear wheels/tires, like a big rubber band, over the front of the front tire, and over the rear of the rear tire. Then you set your axle adjusters to have the twine just 'kiss' the rear rim edge at 4 places, and the same for the front tire/wheel. Of course the front wheel has to be perfectly straight-ahead, and cannot be cocked to one side or the other.
I'm not sure if this method can be used where you have
wheel offset, which has been a popular topic here recently. I think you could still use this method if you used some-sort of spacers on the side
not having the offset, and with the front wheel/tire touching the twine at four places, you would then measure the amount of spacer blocks to get the twine to be in alignment w/the front wheel/tire.
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/simple-motorcycle-wheel-alignment
Bent handlebars are in and of themselves not a big deal, they're fairly cheap, and you might want to change 'em for another set more to your liking anyway. It's the amount of force applied through them that caused them to bend, and what damage might have been caused in that instance. Hence my remark about the fork stops on the triple tree. Castings are not particularly strong in resisting loads for which they were not designed. That's why you need to take a very close look at the upper/lower clamps for the handlebars, and guess what they're part-of?
The engine case guards don't appear to be seriously tweaked, probably a good sign, assuming they're the ones in the accident.
A 1st gear bike slip on greasy, oily pavement when turning can easily put a raspberry onto the outside edge of the exhaust trumpets, they almost act like frame sliders.
For me, the #1 thing would be to closely inspect the entire top/bottom triple tree, the steering head, and to have someone sit on the rear of the bike w/it on its centerstand, and to try the 'bounce test' to see if there's any notchiness or play when you have the front wheel off the ground, and you grab the bottom of the fork sliders by the front axle, and try to move the fork forward & back. You shouldn't have any play, if you do, at the least, it could be mis-adjusted steering head bearings, or being worn-or possible damage to the steering head area of the frame. Generally-speaking, the bikes (frames) are steel, and can take a pretty-good whallop, without breaking something in the frame steering head. I've seen forks ben-back into the engine that still had an intact steering head.
Still, you owe it to yourself to check. Another thing,
very important! If the guy had it insured, and it was a total write-off, you may not be able to get a legal title to it, because it's now considered 'non-rebuildable.' The process to legally return to the road a bike w/a rebuildable title may end up costing you more $$$ than simply buying one in non-accident shape. I'd say
this is
'the most-important thing.' Also, a 'rebuilt' titled bike is worth probably <50% of its non-crashed 'blue book' value.
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