Members who try the double-diaphragm spring sometimes will revert to the single spring because their hands cannot withstand continuous use of the doubled-up diaphragm springs. The issue of the increased-effort needed to work the clutch lever comes into consideration for smaller riders, those with carpal tunnel syndrome, or those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism. They then do what they probably should have done in the first place: overhaul the wet clutch, replacing the friction discs with OEM ones, or a good known-quality aftermarket one, like EBC, Barnett, Vesrah, or Lockhart.
Checking the 'steelies' for glazing and/or warpage should be done as part of the job. Usually, light sanding of the 'steelies' to scuff them up a bit, so the friction discs 'grab' better, should be done.
Careful inspection of the 'steelies' will reveal a side which has a rounded edge perimeter, and one which is 'sharp.' Align the steelies so all the plates are pointing the same way. There is also a set of alignment marks on the clutch boss and the pressure plate to follow when reassembling everything.
Refer to chap. 3, pp. 33-35 in the service manual, also chap. 3 pp. 66-69.
https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
Chap. 3 p.68 also shows alignment marks for the friction discs (they call them 'friction plates'), and how to change the stack order/position if the clutch is 'sticky' between the friction plates and the clutch housing (the clutch housing is commonly referred to as the 'basket.'
There is also a 'heavy-duty' diaphragm clutch spring, which increases the clutch's holding by ~40% but far-less effort is required to operate it compared to the double-disc diaphragm modification. PCW used to carry them, I believe Sean Morley may be a resource for them also
[email protected]
The clutch has an inner friction disc whose surface is half the width of the others. This is an inexpensive way to help gears mesh better upon downshifting, as it provides a bit of slippage, but it doesn't affect things in a healthy clutch upon hard acceleration. You can replace it with a full-width friction disc, and eliminate the thin wire which sits inside the half-width friction disc.