kerker 4 1 too loud with 2.5 inch competition baffle

[Fire-medic]

I would be checking that right front pipe bluing cause. Do a wet float level check and compare it to the others. You also need to dynamically synchronize the carbs. Do you have the VBoost manifold still? I think you can use this type of tool to synch your carbs if you don't have the VBoost ($35):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIzvXmxPuF6QIVENvACh1eJwJQEAQYASABEgIjJvD_BwE

How-does the bike idle? Is the blued pipe much-cooler at idle than the other pipes? That could indicate the plug is starved for gas, it isn't firing, and is lean, probably because of a blocked pilot jet. The shade-tree method of checking exhaust temperatures is to spritz a bit of water onto the pipe, a properly-firing cylinder will vaporize the water immediately, while a non-firing pipe at idle due to a blocked pilot jet on our carburetors will-allow the water to run-down the pipe before evaporating. Or you can use an infra-red temperature gauge.

I have a Stage 7 Dynojet and a UFO 4/1, and I retained the VBoost. Instead of removing the VBoost, you can unplug the stepper motor that controls the VBoost, unplug it when it cycles full-open when you turn-on the ignition key, at the round plug under the left scoop. When you need to synch the carbs, just re-plug the connector, and the VBoost will work, allowing you to synch your carbs, 1 at a time. You would use either the analog dial gauge set of four, or a 'wet' gauge set of four.

Back-to the single carb synch tool:
It may require removing the airbox, to mount the Edelbrock tool to the carburetor airhorns, 1 at a time.

 

[joshua cohen]

No the blue pipe idles alittle stronger than all the others but they all are pretty even for the most part at idle my v boost is fully disassembled this bike was built and tuned by a vmax mechanic and he said stage 7 is 5 bike lengths faster than a stock vmax

 

[VMax-Mike]

I don't miss carbs at all. Gen 2 vmax is so easy.

 

[Dan Lee]

View attachment 71204 View attachment 71205 I have(had) that excellent,killer deep baritone sound at idle, then a really raspy,aluminum can scream up through mid range to top end. Same kerker can, same dimensions. I scoured the net for a different baffle, nada! I started looking at the guys on youtube making baffle's out of everything from chicken wire to fiberglass insulation. Finally started reading about the ceramic filler sheet material 12'x32' blanket AMAZON. It doesn't blow through the inner baffle perforation's like fiber glass. The stuff is easy and clean to work with and really sounds great. We think it solved a perceived lack of back pressure issue I was having. The bike seems to have a more manageable, ride-able power curve and again it sounds great! Pics of the finish wrapped baffle, I used safety wire to really tightly secure that ceramic blanket.

I need to replace the packing on my Kerker, have you had good luck with the ceramic material you bought from Amazon?