Kerker K-Series Exhuast

[ryancdossey]

My Vmax has a Kerker K-Series that a P.O. Painted black. Trouble is that it is starting to rust out. Some small holes on the underside. Is this something I can have a muffler shop tackweld for me or am I better off just ordering a new Exhaust? It sounds absolutely mean. Runs great with the Stage 7 Jet kit. But I can tell I'm missing some performance. Is it worth the $1200.00 to replace it or is there something better/cheaper? Pretty sure the baffle was removed. Sounds like an old muscle car.

 

[marsmax85]

The monkey say's spend it !!!

 

[one2dmax]

Easily welded (and repainted).

 

[ryancdossey]

I'm assuming that any exhaust shop can do this? Or should I take it to a bike shop for some particular reason?

 

[one2dmax]

Anyone with a good welder. Personally, I'd remove the exhaust, have it blasted clean/dry, weld up the bad spots, reblast, then paint it again.

 

[ryancdossey]

What kind of a shop could blast it for me?

 

[one2dmax]

Call around and you should be able to find a blasting shop in your area. You want to get it plastic media blasted though sand blasting will work (just harder on the metal).

 

[Fire-medic]

I did my Kerker 4/1 header & midpipe using a Harbor Freight blasting gun, I used sodium bicarbonate I got at Costco, I think it was $13 for an 8 lb. bag. It came-out great. It was a plated model, so if you have a non-chrome model, or if the chrome is under the p.o.'s paint, the sodium bicarbonate should work well. Otherwise just look under 'metal refinishing' and get a written price quote before you give someone the job. I think the local Jet Hot coating business I got a quote from was going to charge about $200 to strip/coat the Kerker.

Here's a shot of mine after using the HFT blaster, the entire system had a lot of surface rust & a few pinholes. My friend tig'ed the holes. After, the system really improved aesthetically. I went w/a UFO 4/1 so this is just sitting.

As for the pinholes, mig/tig should take care of those easily. Again, show the shop what you want and get a written quote before you give them the job. You should pay-attention to the pipe junction too, as that's a place known to have 'issues' for coming-apart. Even if you end-up spending $300 that is still way-less than a new replacement. Re-do the canister, too, for whatever it needs. Maybe the baffle needs replacement if it's rotted-away, or maybe just re-packing w/fiberglas.

This may help: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21096&highlight=media+blaster

 

[jims-max]

I just welded up a buddies old Magna exshaust and gave it a little paint, tuned out great and I'm sure it will last for years.. would have to be in pretty rough shape to just scrap it IMO.

 

[ryancdossey]

When I get a chance I'll snag some shots of it and you guys can tell me what you think. Looks like it may have been patched already before.

 

[Fire-medic]

The best thisg to do is what you can afford. You might try the local vo-tech program, they have welding classes and you could probably get one of the students to do it for you, and they get to practice towards a skilled-trade. Just using a brass 4" wire wheel chucked in your drill, you should be able to get a lot of the nastiness off, and some of the smaller brushes shapes should get into most of the smaller locations, and a Dremel for the crevices.

Really, the media blasting does it quickly and while you do need to have a compressor and the tank/gun, it will probably be easiest. If you don't have access to that, then just do the drill/wire wheel cleaning, and get some metal prep from your local auto body supplies shop to wipe-down the freshly-cleaned metal. That will prevent it from rusting, and when you have finished the whole thing, you can use VHT or similar if that's all you can afford right now.

And, if blasting, use a quality respirator, and for any grinding/blasting, please wear eye protection!