Knock knock 😣

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SimonH

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Guys,


Hoping the noise in attached video is starter clutch? 🤞😱



What do you reckon?

I panicked toward oil starvation and big end knock, (pressure gauge and O ring upgrade to follow) but near the end of the video you can see the oil level being shifted as it runs, am I correct that this can rule out an oil pressure issue?

Rattley/knock is more apparent lower down the engine, and i would say nearer the clutch snd starter, I suppose the only wawato confirm is to tear down and check.

I have searched and bookmarked some threads on repair/upgrade and how to's, so I won't be asking the same old questions hoepfully, just wanted to get an experienced opinion on the noise if possible

Cheers
-Si
 
Starter clutches usually.....usually make noise on start up. Not while running. First question would be....how does it start? Rattly? Noisy? Clunky? If it sounds normal....then I, at least, would rule it out. Listening blind.....it sounds like a rod knock. Disconnecting spark plugs could help you isolate which cylinder is knocking. Doing this wont stop the noise....but change its pitch and tone as the cylinder is now free wheeling instead of producing power.
 
Starter clutches usually.....usually make noise on start up. Not while running. First question would be....how does it start? Rattly? Noisy? Clunky? If it sounds normal....then I, at least, would rule it out. Listening blind.....it sounds like a rod knock. Disconnecting spark plugs could help you isolate which cylinder is knocking. Doing this wont stop the noise....but change its pitch and tone as the cylinder is now free wheeling instead of producing power.
Thanks for the advice.

I don't think I want to talk about it anymore 🤦‍♂️.. game over 😭👇
 

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Yes. Engine is done. You can try to save the heads/cams and trans but the crank and block are done.
 
We have ETSY, make it into a sculpture, the cases and crankshaft/rods. Having wiped one or more main journals and/or the thrust surface, I expect the rods are gone too.

When I was young, every shop, junkyard, or parts house I was ever-in, had pistons for ashtrays. The really heavily-used ones would get filled-up to where you could smell them as-soon as you walked-in the door.
 
Yes. Engine is done. You can try to save the heads/cams and trans but the crank and block are done.
Cheers,

Im torn between 2nd hand lump or move the whole thing on as spare/repairs and find another, with first to do's being pressure gauge and o ring upgrade
 
Depends upon the budget. If you find a 1300cc Venture motor, swap heads & VBoost to it, and have an increase in displacement for not (probably) a lot of $.
 
I was about to suggest a Venture motor, 100 extra CC, also there are some slightly different gear ratios with the Venture lump. If your liking the open road the way I do then those Venture ratios could be more friendly.

The Venture also has a more highway friendly final drive ratio which can be used on the VMX with a little finesse.

Here is a thread in which ratios were discussed.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/evolution-of-the-venture-vmax-trans.11749/
 
I fixed a Yamaha XTZ750 motor that sounded worse than that and had far more debris in the sump from just two cylinders! The main bearings were fine so there was no damage to the cases. I only replaced the rods and the crank in the end with new bearings all round of course. So it may not be necessary to make an ornament of your Vmax engine! I suggest that you strip it before you junk it and you may be able to repair it to a standard that you know is right instead of buying an engine with an unknown history.
 

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