Be sure to add your location under your screen name, someone on-here may be local to you, for assistance.
Yes it appears to-be a stock exhaust.
This thread is a good one for initial VMax owners:
New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read!
A strong battery and a properly-operating charging system are necessary for proper evaluation of the bike in dynamic mode. A weak battery causes all-sorts of problems. The charging system misfunction will prevent the battery from working properly. Of those two, you're probably more-likely to reach the bad battery than you are a poorly-operating charging system.
If the bike doesn't run, I wouldn't pay more-than $1K for a clean example, which is all-there, and which shows
no obvious defects, but that is hard to determine without having it run/operational, and able to be road tested. A poorly-maintained bike, non-operational, which doesn't start, so it cannot be ridden, thus properly-evaluated, is a $500 pig-in-a-poke. I've paid less.
If the starter sounds like a barrel of rocks being tossed-about, 'starter clutch,' at a minimum. Maybe not right-now, but soon.
These bikes with the 10% ethanol gas common today develop obstructed carbs from sitting. You can try all the 'on the bike' peashooter/shotgun carb rebuild in a can attempts to clean it up, but I just rip-out the carbs and split 'em into two pairs, and open them up for immersion in an ultrasonic cleaner, an inspection, and replacement of worn parts, which usually is gaskets (the jet block gasket is the one I replace most frequently, often others don't really need replacement, if you're careful on disassembly) and a float needle set. The pilot jet often becomes plugged, it has a very tiny aperture, and it affects low-speed and idle, and can produce not running on all-four cylinders at those speeds, while allowing normal running beyond the rpm's at which it/they are metering.
Count upon changing all fluids: engine oil, brakes, clutch, coolant, and maybe down the road when it's laid-up for the winter, fork oil. The final drive gear oil is another place to at-least check the level, once it's yours, and plan to change it during the winter down-time. Keep a spreadsheet of what/when you do things.
Yes the clutch needs a good bleed and if you're bleeding it, you might as-well replace it. I suspect the handlebar master cylinders have opaque fluid, it should be clear. It they aren't (rear brake too) change the fluid, DOT 4 is cheap, available anywhere, and will help to restore proper function and prevent corrosion from water in the hygroscopic (I love to-absorb water) fluid.
Lots of clutch tech info here:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
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