I just did my valves on sunday. First time I've done them on something other than a single cylinder quad/dirt bike/or lawn mower.
Between the how to on the forum, the OEM shop manual, and the manual Dman sent me a link to (thanks again) i felt properly armed.
I had a hard time seeing the timing marks. I gave up trying and just measured my clearance with the cam lobes in line with the valve cover mounting holes.
Once you get the hang of it, it's not a bad job. It took me a few tries to get the hang of where to rotate the shim buckets before inserting the tool so they rotate in a position that is easy to remove the shim. Also took a couple tries to figure out the best angle to put the cam at before the tool went on to ensure I had the maximum amount of space to pop the shims out.
I'm not sure what worked for others but, for me, 2 picks worked great for removing the shims. Once It popped loose from the bucket I used a magnet to pull it out.
I didn't use the chart in any of the manuals. I used metric feelers. No conversions needed. If the clearance is .05 mm too tight, use a shim that is 5 less than what is in there now. I.E. if you find a 265 in there, install a 260 to gain .05 mm of clearance. I found it best to rotate the engine at least one full turn after installing a new shim to make sure it is fully seated in the bucket before before checking you new measurement.
I recommend spraying the valve cover gaskets with permatex hi tack on the side that touches the cover only. let it dry for a couple minutes then work it into the groove in the valve cover. The spray will hold it in there and makes install easy. Before you slap the covers back on put some sealant on the cylinder head side of the gasket but, only on the half round part, and the corners where it transitions from flat to half round. Don't need much, just a real thin coating. I used yamabond. A black sealant would have been nice, less visible. Not that you can really see it unless you examine the area
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