looking for someone to replace my clutch.

[jwerntl]

Anyone know of a great mechanic in the Atlanta area that would replace my clutch? I have less than an inch of 'pull in' on my lever. Basically it engages as soon as I pull the lever in.

I didn't realize how far out the clutch was until I purchased a new street glide a few months ago. and then hopped back on the 'Max this weekend.

- to make a long story short- I sold the VMAX to a business partner with the idea that we would switch back and forth. I had been riding the Harley a few months so I was getting extremely antsyfor the VMAX --

SO, I went up and swapped with my partner this weekend - Immediately hopping on the 'Max I was like a kid on christmas morning. but IMMEDIATELY realized (after getting off a bike with a new clutch) how far out this one was.- it's got no 'pull in' room left! and once it in gear, I let the lever out all the way!!

I have a stage two with a full KERKER exhaust, but it's pretty much a cruiser. No racing at all, I love the adrenaline rush so I raise the front end off the ground, every so often. No biggie.

I've got 13k miles on her clock - she runs as strong as she ever has and it doesn't slip at all. I prefer to to keep it that way - I believe in preventive maintenance.

Anybody knwo a GREAT mechanic to give my baby a new clutch?

Thanks guys.

 

[Fire-medic]

You may only need to bleed the clutch, remove the old fluid and replace w/new fluid, and reverse-bleed it, pushing brake fluid from the bleeder nipple by the left side engine cover (just above it, further back from the alternator cover) up to the master cyl. Use a 60 ml (CC) syringe fastened to the nipple w/a hose clamp & a 2" or longer clear plastic length of tubing. The clutch master cyl by the left handlebar should be emptied of fluid before you start to push the fluid in at the engine case clutch nipple.

It's possible you have an internally-bleeding piston in the clutch master cyl, or a leaking clutch slave cyl. If the bleed doesn't affect a lasting 'fix,' then you may be due for a master cyl rebuild, a replacement, or the same to the slave cyl. Rarely would the slave cyl and the clutch master cyl both start leaking.

Is there any brake fluid on your clutch lever? It's a sure sign of a leaking master cyl piston, and it's time for a re-build or replacement.

There are plenty of threads about 'reverse-bleeding,' use the advanced search function to get more detailed info. large syringes like that are for sale at your local pharmacy, very cheap, or you could look in the aisle of your supermarket for a syringe style 'turkey baster.' In either case you won't need any needle. Get the bare hub tip on the syringe not the "Luer-lock" style which is used to 'screw' a hypodermic needle onto the syringe, w/that type, there's an inner male member and a female sleeve surrounding it that the needle flange screws into. That's the type you don't need.

 

[Redbone]

I use a Motion Pro mini brake bleeder to good effect on my clutch. FM's way works as well but I picked up the MP unit since it was so small it fit in my tool kit for my trip to Newfoundland this summer, luckily I never needed it.

Link: http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0482

 

[Traumahawk]

I use a Motion Pro mini brake bleeder to good effect on my clutch. FM's way works as well but I picked up the MP unit since it was so small it fit in my tool kit for my trip to Newfoundland this summer, luckily I never needed it.

Link: http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0482

Thanks for the link. Just ordered.

 

[Redbone]

I'm sure you know Eric, but I failed to mention that you will need the 8mm unit.

 

[Traumahawk]

I'm sure you know Eric, but I failed to mention that you will need the 8mm unit.

Yep, that was the one that I ordered. I like the looks of it. It looks simple and compact.

Thanks Brian.

I might pick one up for the old Dodge. I THINK that one is 3/8ths.

 

[Fire-medic]

I'm guessing it has a gasket in the socket to seal the nipple? Yes, a good tool. You could just hook the syringe to the tubing for a reverse-bleed.

The advantage of a reverse-bleed is that you are pushing any air bubbles in the direction they tend to move anyway, instead of trying to force them downwards against gravity in a "squeeze-and-hold the brake or clutch lever" manner of bleeding. For more information, and to observe the physics of the reverse-bleed method, pour yourself a cold beer and observe the migration of bubbles. I suggest a Guiness, as the dark beer provides a good picture for your viewing pleasure.

 

[jwerntl]

Thank you for your replies! And I've checked, there are no leaks. Zero - the bike is supe clean - you'd never think it's got 13k miles on it.

I'lll grab a pump and see how she acts. It's for sure worth a go. Is it because there's no slippage that the clutch is fine?

 

[THMAX98]

good day to you ,did you sort your clutch out ?I have the same dilemma clutch just works right at the end of the lever ,ive ordered a set of caltric clutch plates with a gasket,has anybody else used or know of these clutch plates?

 

[Fire-medic]

Most of the experienced guys on here will tell you that the OEM Yamaha fiber clutch discs are what you should use. They work, are of high quality, and they last.

Your symptom of 'all the way to the handlebar before disengaging' is a classic symptom of air in the lines. When was the last time you checked the fluid? If you can't see the bottom of the reservoir thru the fluid, you'reoverdue for a fluid change. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs water vapor, and that means the fluid now has a lower boiling point. Riding the brakes can turn that trapped water into gas, now you have bubbles in your fluid, and poor braking.

 

[sdt354]

I use a Motion Pro mini brake bleeder to good effect on my clutch. FM's way works as well but I picked up the MP unit since it was so small it fit in my tool kit for my trip to Newfoundland this summer, luckily I never needed it.

Link: http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0482

I like it and will be ordering one. Anything to make life easier.
Thanks Brian.

 

[sdt354]

Thank you for your replies! And I've checked, there are no leaks. Zero - the bike is supe clean - you'd never think it's got 13k miles on it.

I'lll grab a pump and see how she acts. It's for sure worth a go. Is it because there's no slippage that the clutch is fine?

13k miles is nothing for a vmax clutch under normal riding conditions. I beat my own clutch up some, and it last 3-4 seasons. Last time I pulled it apart the fibers were still in spec. I cleaned the steels and it was as good as new.
Steve-o

 

[Traumahawk]

I like it and will be ordering one. Anything to make life easier.
Thanks Brian.

I have one as well, and I like. I too bought it off of Brian's recommendation.