I just bought & installed a PCW extra plate clutch kit, inc. the heavy-duty diaphragm spring & all friction discs. They use Yamaha friction plates in their kits.
My 1992 bike w/23,000 miles on it, was on its original clutch. It just began slipping recently when I swapped-on a Dynojet Stage 7-kitted carb set. As has been mentioned as a symptom, it began slipping in the upper gears as the clutch was engaged. As soon as I noticed it, I took it easy on the way home, and parked the bike until I could get the new parts.
I called-up Schnectady NY and spoke w/the staff, and chose the above kit. It was $156.10 shipped to FL.
I followed the directions, it took me about two hours from getting-out my tools to putting them away & washing my hands. I made sure to soak the friction discs completely in fresh motor oil, I use Motul. The kit eliminates the slipper feature that the stock last-friction disc in the clutch pack provides, along w/a couple of washers & a retaining spring-steel wire.
Results were immediate for increased dynamic performance from my bike. No slippage, just a really-nice surge as I released the clutch hand lever and got back-into the throttle.
I also took the time to re-jet my DJ Stage-7 carbs at the same time, I am running 160's now, stock exhaust, stock functional VBoost. They had been set-up for an aftermarket exhaust, and were still too-rich after the shop who broke the rack, cleaned and reassembled and synched them went down multiple jet sizes from where they were, an educated guess. The bike was pretty-crisp in throttle-response everywhere, pulled great, except approaching 8000+ rpm, it would break-up/'blubber.' So that's where I put-in the 160's and the first ride after the switch to them, I was really happy w/the results. It pulled to redline w/not a hint of 'blubbering,' and the throttle response from idle to redline is great. I suppose if I wanted to do a plug chop, and study the color, I might be able to fine-tune it, but after having my dyno dilemma (thread), my motto is, "if it ain't broke, dont fix it." It's running fine, and frankly, after recently installing radials, fixing the clutch, and the Stage 7 kitted carbs install and tune, and Prog. Suspension shocks, the sum-total is so-far above any previous results I've had w/the bike, it's hard to believe it's really the same ride. All I can say is, if I run it hard towards/into fourth, it handles so-much better, and runs so-much better than I ever recall as stock, it's a different riding experience, and I'm not wary about the handling/performance it demonstrates w/these mods. I would have been if it was the stock running gear, feeling it 'hunt' as it went down the road at higher speeds. And I haven't yet installed my Race Tech springs and RICOR Intiminator revalving set.
unk:I did swap-on a 1993+ front end, too, w/fresh 'All-Balls' steering headset bearings. For a breaking improvement, I went w/FZR1000 4-pots & HH pads, along w/298 mm rotors, but I have some FZR 6-pots waiting, too.
Pretty-soon I will be ready to pull it apart for cosmetics, and once it goes back together, I think I will be happy for a long time to come.
My 1992 bike w/23,000 miles on it, was on its original clutch. It just began slipping recently when I swapped-on a Dynojet Stage 7-kitted carb set. As has been mentioned as a symptom, it began slipping in the upper gears as the clutch was engaged. As soon as I noticed it, I took it easy on the way home, and parked the bike until I could get the new parts.
I called-up Schnectady NY and spoke w/the staff, and chose the above kit. It was $156.10 shipped to FL.
I followed the directions, it took me about two hours from getting-out my tools to putting them away & washing my hands. I made sure to soak the friction discs completely in fresh motor oil, I use Motul. The kit eliminates the slipper feature that the stock last-friction disc in the clutch pack provides, along w/a couple of washers & a retaining spring-steel wire.
Results were immediate for increased dynamic performance from my bike. No slippage, just a really-nice surge as I released the clutch hand lever and got back-into the throttle.
I also took the time to re-jet my DJ Stage-7 carbs at the same time, I am running 160's now, stock exhaust, stock functional VBoost. They had been set-up for an aftermarket exhaust, and were still too-rich after the shop who broke the rack, cleaned and reassembled and synched them went down multiple jet sizes from where they were, an educated guess. The bike was pretty-crisp in throttle-response everywhere, pulled great, except approaching 8000+ rpm, it would break-up/'blubber.' So that's where I put-in the 160's and the first ride after the switch to them, I was really happy w/the results. It pulled to redline w/not a hint of 'blubbering,' and the throttle response from idle to redline is great. I suppose if I wanted to do a plug chop, and study the color, I might be able to fine-tune it, but after having my dyno dilemma (thread), my motto is, "if it ain't broke, dont fix it." It's running fine, and frankly, after recently installing radials, fixing the clutch, and the Stage 7 kitted carbs install and tune, and Prog. Suspension shocks, the sum-total is so-far above any previous results I've had w/the bike, it's hard to believe it's really the same ride. All I can say is, if I run it hard towards/into fourth, it handles so-much better, and runs so-much better than I ever recall as stock, it's a different riding experience, and I'm not wary about the handling/performance it demonstrates w/these mods. I would have been if it was the stock running gear, feeling it 'hunt' as it went down the road at higher speeds. And I haven't yet installed my Race Tech springs and RICOR Intiminator revalving set.
unk:I did swap-on a 1993+ front end, too, w/fresh 'All-Balls' steering headset bearings. For a breaking improvement, I went w/FZR1000 4-pots & HH pads, along w/298 mm rotors, but I have some FZR 6-pots waiting, too.Pretty-soon I will be ready to pull it apart for cosmetics, and once it goes back together, I think I will be happy for a long time to come.
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