I've gone through RaWarrior's how-to on taking care of low voltage. I fixed the crimp in the harness, replaced the r/r with a mosfet version from a zx14, replaced the battery, added connections directly from the r/r to the battery, and I finally replaced the stator yesterday. It's still not charging the battery. I'm wondering if my r/r might be shot. I had the ground wire for the r/r break last week and I'm wondering if it damaged the r/r having power go to it with no power going out. Any ideas? Thanks!
Low voltage/ not charging
- Thread starter AMechEng
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- charging low voltage or
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alorio1
Well-Known Member
Did you check the stator out put ?
alorio1
Well-Known Member
FYI; Stator specs is about 1.3 ohms between phases and outputing 50ish volts AC at 3000 rpms.
I checked between windings and they were equal at .6 ohm each. I will check the stator output. Any other guesses what could cause my low voltage issue? Voltage was barely going above 13.2v even at high RPMs.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Ohm reading is also temperature dependent. Can also be affected by connector condition if measured from the crimped plug coming from the stator.
How does the book say to get the reading?... . I don't know.
Although I would think if they are all equal it was ok since it would be rare for the winding to short equally on all three phases.
The running output would be the final say in my book.
How does the book say to get the reading?... . I don't know.
Although I would think if they are all equal it was ok since it would be rare for the winding to short equally on all three phases.
The running output would be the final say in my book.
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Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
This may be a bit off the wall, but is it possible for a magnet in the flywheel to lose some of its magnetism, causing the output volts to drop?
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Bill, are you thinking , like old Fairbanks Morce magnitos? That used to be the case with them way back... Picture the guy kicking over that old 1966 Sportster. Not much of spark till it got spinning fast. Weak magnets.Usually push starting them when cold:rofl_200:
Steve-o
I did the diode test according to
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
and it failed the test. For the first part
Forward Bias: Top 3 Diodes - Test 1.
My Fluke MM registered 0.122 vdc when it should be 0.4-0.6vdc. The bottom diodes seem to be good.
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf
and it failed the test. For the first part
Forward Bias: Top 3 Diodes - Test 1.
My Fluke MM registered 0.122 vdc when it should be 0.4-0.6vdc. The bottom diodes seem to be good.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
Well, I guess its time for a new RR. I guess when the black wire broke it did infact damage the RR, good testing........
I never use crimp connections and the one time I do it bites me in the ass. I ordered some of these
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
and will solder them. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll finally be at 14 volts.
On a random note I came across a good deal on top quality shrink tube on ebay. 200 feet for $35 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251007055688?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
and will solder them. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll finally be at 14 volts.
On a random note I came across a good deal on top quality shrink tube on ebay. 200 feet for $35 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251007055688?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
I went through this man what a pain. I did Just about all that your doing. I have 1992 vmax. Man I order 2005 vmax rectifier and UB type bettery and 2 10 gauge ground wires. I have 14.5... now I been through 2 used rectifiers. 1 had 17 + voltage at idle.
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Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
The entire power grid is built with crimp connectors, nothing wrong with them if they are quality to start with and crimped properly.
Male and female spades or barrels that push together and are intended to carry significant load on the other hand are always a formula for failure by design in my mind though.
plus 2 rusty
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
For connectors that have to come apart eventually, like those attached to fairings, I use a commercial product called "KOPR-SHIELD"
I'm sure you would be familiar with this, Rusty.
Cheers!
alorio1
Well-Known Member
You certainly got plenty of heat shrink ordered.....what about the RR ??
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Many of our clients mandate its use on all grounding and bonding connections. Its a bit messy though. I've found WD40 to be one of the few things that clean it up
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Yes!
Kopr-Shield is a great product. Its copper suspended in anti-corrosion paste to oversimplify it.
Generally used in industrial electrical arena between bolted mating surfaces on "big stuff" cabling or threaded pipe joints for improved ground continuity.
Also good to paste on wire before crimping down end connectors.
If you consider using it to coat small "unpluggable" connectors like we have keep in mind it IS conductive so be sure to keep it confined to the individual points so it doesn't short out across different wires on the same connector.
I haven't used it in any of my plug connectors but if I did I would apply it to the interior of the individual female connectors with a toothpick or q-tip
Most Utilities avoid it on bolted high voltage ACSR cable connections to porcelain or polymer transformer or breaker insulator bushings because it is conductive and they fear it will end up somewhere it shouldn't be. Like on the bushing surface. Even tho T&B says it won't travel or creep. Probably more of a concern if installation craftsmanship.
I've used it in most of the butt splice joints I've done on my charging system.
Plan on using it on my grounds and starter cable next time I'm in there.
Home Depot or Lowes sometimes have it in the shelf or equivalents.
Kopr-Shield is a great product. Its copper suspended in anti-corrosion paste to oversimplify it.
Generally used in industrial electrical arena between bolted mating surfaces on "big stuff" cabling or threaded pipe joints for improved ground continuity.
Also good to paste on wire before crimping down end connectors.
If you consider using it to coat small "unpluggable" connectors like we have keep in mind it IS conductive so be sure to keep it confined to the individual points so it doesn't short out across different wires on the same connector.
I haven't used it in any of my plug connectors but if I did I would apply it to the interior of the individual female connectors with a toothpick or q-tip
Most Utilities avoid it on bolted high voltage ACSR cable connections to porcelain or polymer transformer or breaker insulator bushings because it is conductive and they fear it will end up somewhere it shouldn't be. Like on the bushing surface. Even tho T&B says it won't travel or creep. Probably more of a concern if installation craftsmanship.
I've used it in most of the butt splice joints I've done on my charging system.
Plan on using it on my grounds and starter cable next time I'm in there.
Home Depot or Lowes sometimes have it in the shelf or equivalents.
