Master Cylinder screws

[josephjhaney]

So, I thought "Hey, I'll top off my master cylinder for my clutch, that will give me a few more weeks of riding till I need to replace the seals in the slave". 5 min job, right? Get out there, the guy used hex bolts to replace the stock screws on the top, I remember thinking what a good idea that was last time I did this. Well, I go to remove them, and I stripped one. GREAT! So, now I need to get a replacement, and then try to get the old one out, but I can't find the damn part number anywhere for the stock phillips head ones. Looking at the service manual, that seems to be a part they aren't listing. Anyone here have any ideas? I'm off to look at a few other sites too. Thanks in advance, you guys have been awesome with everything so far.

I'm looking forward to more riding and less wrenching soon.

Joe

 

[dannymax]

Rart #7 http://www.ronayers.com/FRONT-MASTER-CYLINDER-2-C458108.aspx

 

[josephjhaney]

Rart #7 http://www.ronayers.com/FRONT-MASTER-CYLINDER-2-C458108.aspx

Perfect! Thanks! Now to get the buggered up one the heck outta there.

 

[Fire-medic]

You should be able to get an equivalent screw at a well-stocked hardware store w/o having to order from the dealer. I bought a dozen to have on-hand and haven't used them up yet.

When I've had the Phillips head deformed, I used my Dremel to make a slot for a blade screwdriver. I've only had to drill out one in all my years of ~3 dozen bikes.

 

[m-cman]

I replaced almost every hardware item on my bike with stainless steel versions. The hex head SS cover screws were available at a local hardware store. It was a large independent store though. I use anti-seize on all items, especially SS to prevent problems. SS has a tendency to "weld" itself to dissimilar metals, particularly in high heat situations.

 

[dj52l]

May I add a suggestion for those who love thrill rides and let a leaking clutch sit all Winter and just start it up every couple of weeks to keep battery charged? After the long Winter, on the first nice early March day, fire it up, let it get warmed up so it is really running nice, back it off the parking mat, (an old door to keep off the gravel floor.) and even though you are not quite facing straight out the barn door, pull the clutch and click her into first gear.
Folks, it is a thrill ride trying to stop a raging, clutchless Vmax in pea sized chat gravel before you go through a side wall. The front tire with brake locked dug a 6 foot long, 4 inch deep rut before I could hit the kill switch just a couple of inches from the wall. At least I didn't hit my other bike or ATV's .
Then, try backing the bike out of said rut while still shaking like an alcoholic in Church. Maybe it would have been wise to fix the clutch leak in the Fall??

 

[[email protected]]

Too bad you didn't get that on video DJ.

 

[josephjhaney]

I just got my slave rebuilt, the nice people at the shop did it since I just didn't want to end up regretting trying to get those bolts out of the slave. The master now has nice new bolts in it as well. Funny story, I made the appointment, told the wife we were headed over, and hopped on the bike when I got home. Pulled the clutch in, and knew right away it wasn't right, more fluid had leaked out, it was barely letting enough movement to get it in gear, well, let's give it a shot anyway. Hit the interstate in 3rd gear, and figured I'd just ride it most of the way in that gear, and work it back down into 2nd for the stop light close to the shop. Well, this is Harrisburg where I83 gets all kinda backed up around 5, so of course, I'm feathering the damn clutch in stop and go traffic in 3rd gear on the interstate for 20 mins. Finally got it to jump into 2nd gear, and just kept it there till I hit the shop. THAT was an interesting trip.

Shout out to the guys at Yamaha of Camp Hill, you guys rock!

Joe