May have found a cheap coil/wire replacement option

[Thevmaxrider]

Sounds like a plan to me!! If you get an R1 set let me know. I get a "brother in law" deal on OEM Yamaha parts so I am looking at paying about $35 Cdn tax free new in the package for the wiring harness....

 

[Birdoprey]

You set on getting the R1's? I assume your wanting to keep everything Yamaha? Of course, they don't say Yamaha on them. Also, from my hunting, i've found that other makes have the exact same cops(brand). Have not looked at the R1's yet though....

 

[Thevmaxrider]

You set on getting the R1's? I assume your wanting to keep everything Yamaha? Of course, they don't say Yamaha on them. Also, from my hunting, i've found that other makes have the exact same cops(brand). Have not looked at the R1's yet though....

I am willing to bet that they are the same as all the rest. Only reason I am wanting them is because the wiring harness is from an R1 so I know that the connectors will work. Of course they may be universal across the board and as I don't know that for sure just figured the safe bet is to stick with the same "brand".

 

[Birdoprey]

I got ya. From what i'm finding, i believe most of them are the same.

 

[blvdblaster1200]

IM GOING TO A SALVAGE YARD AND GRAB SOME INDIVIDUAL HARNESS OFF A NEW MODEL IMPORT.MOST ALL THE COPS ON IMPORT CARS ARE MADE BY DENSO.JUST LIKE THE BIKES.ill let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[Birdoprey]

Well, its official. I took a spin on my V-max today! COP worked flawlessly. Ran it to 10K several times in several gears(10500 once). Even did a long pull to 9300rpm in top gear. Not even a hiccup, no issues at all. My bike started up with 55deg temps and did'nt miss, spit, sputter or anything. Throttle response was better too. I'm officially convinced its a good mod. Its cheap and easy to do, and IMO it adds to the cool factor with the COP. Another neat thing is that since the COP's are pretty cheap, one can keep a spare SET under your seat incase something ever happens to one or all. I've never seen one go bad, but i'm sure it could happen.
This was the first time i've ridden the V-max since the USD conversion(with 120/70R17 radial) and also adding the braced swingarm and 17" wider rear wheel(with 190/50R17 radial). All i can say is...WOW! Its a different bike now! Sorry, i'm hijaking my own thread!

As far as i'm concerned, the COP's are here to stay!

 

[gleno]

Well, its official. I took a spin on my V-max today! COP worked flawlessly. Ran it to 10K several times in several gears(10500 once). Even did a long pull to 9300rpm in top gear. Not even a hiccup, no issues at all. My bike started up with 55deg temps and did'nt miss, spit, sputter or anything. Throttle response was better too. I'm officially convinced its a good mod. Its cheap and easy to do, and IMO it adds to the cool factor with the COP. Another neat thing is that since the COP's are pretty cheap, one can keep a spare SET under your seat incase something ever happens to one or all. I've never seen one go bad, but i'm sure it could happen.
This was the first time i've ridden the V-max since the USD conversion(with 120/70R17 radial) and also adding the braced swingarm and 17" wider rear wheel(with 190/50R17 radial). All i can say is...WOW! Its a different bike now! Sorry, i'm hijaking my own thread!

As far as i'm concerned, the COP's are here to stay!

OK. Did the mod last week and I'm very happy with the performance but I have a question regrading the COP mod and the standard resistor type plugs.

I pulled my plugs today and noticed that the insulating ceramic around the center electrode seems to be running toward hot.

What is the best plug to run after a COP's mod?

 

[RagingMain]

OK. Did the mod last week and I'm very happy with the performance but I have a question regrading the COP mod and the standard resistor type plugs.

I pulled my plugs today and noticed that the insulating ceramic around the center electrode seems to be running toward hot.

What is the best plug to run after a COP's mod?

I am running one step cooler on the NGK and not having a problem.

 

[naughtyG]

I'm not quite sure I fully understand the hotter/cooler spark plug theory thingy. Could anyone explain this properly?

Also, how do you find out which is the appropriate cooler or hotter plug for any given motorcycle? Can you tell by the plug's name/numbering system?

Finally, what's the difference between a resistor or non-resistor type plug, how are they identified, and will they make a difference to the coils' secondary circuit load?

 

[maleko89]

The hotter the plug the farther up the plug the heat goes before going to cylinder head to cool. Cooler plugs have less distance to travel to dissapate the heat.

Here's a picture to help with NGK's numbering system. You can tell the heat range and whether it's a resistor plug by looking at the numbering.

Plugs with a long insulator nose, which leads heat high into the plug body before it turns back toward the cooler cylinder head, are "hot." Short-nosed plugs, with a shorter heat path, are "cold." The Vmax plug is DPR8EA-9. The 'R' tells us it's a resistor plug. You can also get DP8EA-9's for the Vmax which is what I run. The resistor help against RFI interfence.

 

[naughtyG]

Nice one Mark!

So, other than the RF interference, does the resistor do anything, especially in terms of plug resistance? :ummm:

Also, why would I want to run a hotter or a colder plug on my Max, and why do you run the non-resistor type - just to screw with the neighbors' radio? :rofl_200:

 

[maleko89]

Naughty, I wouldn't mess with the heat range at all. If you were doing a supercharger or turbo then maybe.

I chose the non resistor since you get more voltage to the spark plug. I haven't noticed anything bad and mileage is a tad better.

 

[naughtyG]

Nah, I'm not interested in changing any of it Mark. Just would like to understand more about it - always been like that.
From what you're saying, running COPs (with their lower resistance than OEM coils) you're always gonna be better running the resistor type plugs, right?

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, I agree with that. Especially if running the Dyna since it's more sensitive on current.

 

[82ndCowboy]

The hotter the plug the farther up the plug the heat goes before going to cylinder head to cool. Cooler plugs have less distance to travel to dissapate the heat.

Here's a picture to help with NGK's numbering system. You can tell the heat range and whether it's a resistor plug by looking at the numbering.

Plugs with a long insulator nose, which leads heat high into the plug body before it turns back toward the cooler cylinder head, are "hot." Short-nosed plugs, with a shorter heat path, are "cold." The Vmax plug is DPR8EA-9. The 'R' tells us it's a resistor plug. You can also get DP8EA-9's for the Vmax which is what I run. The resistor help against RFI interfence.

Nice Post Maleko...
This chart along with any other brands would be cool to have in the FAQ section.

Just a thought...

 

[maleko89]

Nice Post Maleko...
This chart along with any other brands would be cool to have in the FAQ section.

Just a thought...

Good idea Robert. I copied it to the FAQ section.

 

[Vmaxattacks]

Check out what I just scored! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230318463297unk:

 

[naughtyG]

Nice! Make sure to take some 'before and after' amp readings at your ignition fuse - it's still a contentious issue.. :confused2:

 

[Vmaxattacks]

Will do!
This is one of the best places to hang out. I have learned alot and will be able to hopefully share as well.
Thanx again for this great mod!
BTW, I don't know if the connectors are the same as far as the coils go but at the very least I can pop the spade terminals out of one and put into the others. I asked these guys if they would throw in the harness pigtails as well but maybe I am asking too much since I scored $400 worth of coils for $12

 

[naughtyG]

ask Birdoprey he may still have some spare harnesses handy. I got mine from him at a very decent price. :worthy: