Moving to LED

[Mark Kooper]

Hi all,

I've replaced my rear lollypops with LEDs some time ago without any inline resistors. The little side effect, to be expected, is that the indicators flash more rapidly.

Now I've also replaced the front lollypops with LEDs. Again, trying to get away without the resistors (because they are bulky and only available online and I needed them immediately).

The effect is not easy to explain. It does not make sense according to the cabling diagram, and I checked, the bike ('96) still has the original wiring harness. So now when I indicate left or right, doesn't matter which way, all 4 blinkers flash simultaneously, the dash panel indicator indicator no longer indicates, and finally I get more clicks when I start up the ignition.

Rest of the bikes works fine. Any idea if resistors would resolve this issue? Or is it something more - because, like I said, the symptoms do not seem to make any logical sense.

 

[one2dmax]

You can try resistors, you can go the cheap route of hiding a standard bulb somewhere under the bike wired in parallel. Or you can get a universal relay (if the blink rate is too fast).
If they actually still blink then I can sell you a diode kit (which you likely need anyway), to separate the right and left sides from where they share positive wires up at the indicator bulb in the dash. If you want to get by cheap and or quickly just remove that indicator bulb.

 

[[email protected]]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10877

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[93max]

You need to install 2 diodes in parallel in the dash indicator. All 4 blinking Problem solved.
You need to ground one side of the indicator and tie the paralleled side of the diode to the "positive" side..
Done.
I'll see If I can find the diagram.
The problem is the "hots" from both sides of the signals goes to the indicator.

Step 2 is what you should end up with.
A 30 cent maybe 1hr long fix.

 

[Mark Kooper]

OK, got a short-term fix from all your advice: Removed the dash-board bulb (What a pain in the ass that was!). Next, looking at LED controller box. I'll probably put that in when I replace the headlight.

 

[one2dmax]

I've got simple relays ($25) and the diode kit for the dash bulb ($8) plus some postage. Then run any LED you want.

 

[Charlesstunts]

You need to install 2 diodes in parallel in the dash indicator. All 4 blinking Problem solved.
You need to ground one side of the indicator and tie the paralleled side of the diode to the "positive" side..
Done.
I'll see If I can find the diagram.
The problem is the "hots" from both sides of the signals goes to the indicator.

Step 2 is what you should end up with.
A 30 cent maybe 1hr long fix.

Hi there I'm doing the same LED Indicator Modification with the addition of Angel Eye Halos in the intake scoops. Would your suggestion still apply?



Thanks



Charles

 

[93max]

Hi there I'm doing the same LED Indicator Modification with the addition of Angel Eye Halos in the intake scoops. Would your suggestion still apply?



Thanks



Charles

I would think so.
Have any pics of angel eye deal?

 

[Charlesstunts]

I managed these back in October. I had MANY FAILED ATTEMPTS with the wiring using wire taps but good old fashion solder did the trick

 

[Bill Seward]

PosiLock connectors are a great alternative for the solder-challenged among us. Cheap, easy to use, and can be reused.

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Those halo lights in the scoops look great.

 

[KSMAX]

If doing the halos, the top need to be 78mm, but usually only 80mm are available, making it difficult to fit without using a Dremel to grind away some of the halo. This opens up the conductive circuit board most of them are made on and could cause a short in rain.

I make and sell a plastic riser that gets the halo out of the scoop taper just enough that you don't have to grind any of the halo off. See pics of my install. Please excuse the excess 3M mounting tape on the finished pic I have yet to trim out!

I'd be glad to hook anyone up if interested. $30 shipped in USA.